Alan B

Cant really comment as I have never flown a micro-shockie. Looks good fun though. However a totally different beast to the Click 2. It is a lot smaller.  I would weigh up the pros & cons if you really wanted one of that type of model. ie extra costs - postage -servos etc. from hobbyKing.   If I recall - Robotbirds are doing complete microshockie packages. Might be worth a look.   I personally would stick with the Click 2  you wont be dissapointed.   Al

Hi Steve   "Nice vid Jonathon!"  If its any help - this is my set up on the click 2 for very slow floaty fying and fast when you need it..   Motor - Brushless Outrunner XC2803/52 Nicolas Pietu replica (very light and very powerfull - quite pricey but you can probably find a cheaper alternative of the same weight and power. Others in my club have used cheaper and heavier motors on Clicks and cannot get  the same performance as mine.   Turnigy Plush 6A Esc   Loongmax Lipo 2 cell 7.4v 500mah battery (flight times 10-15 mins) I have used Rhino 3 cell 11.1 360 mAH Lipos - More Grunt - but not needed and shorter flight times.   GWS EP 8 x 4.3 prop.   Im using a bigger RX than I would like to - but the all up weight is about 140 grams.   Al         Edited By Alan B on 26/04/2010 11:29:57

Well done BB   Yes a good feeling - bit like being a kid again - getting the keys to the Sweety shop!

Hi Tony   I am presently buiding one with the same wing and servo set up.set up. As BEB says above - strong bands and nice and tight. The problem is though if the trailing edge is balsa the bands can damage the wing. I get around this by  cutting a little out of the edge and epoxying a short piece of  2 mm carbon fibre rod on the edge where the bands lie. you could use thick piano wire if you wish. Saves any dents when the pressures on.   Al

Thanks all - Interesting thread. You are right Erflog, it was worth a look. I have always wondered how it was done by modellers.   Al

Hi Bob   Thats good news   well at least you are sorted now - as I said - new stuff isn't infallable to faults.   Al

Possibly - Everything new is not infalable. If you bought it local it might be a good idea to try another Transmitter if they have one or if you know somebody with the same Transmitter.

Hi Bob   If it is doing it with 3 different models/txs and plugging into different channels -then there is something definately up. I would set any throttle curves on the TX to normal irrespective of heli/acro settings as wing man says. Dual rates and expo set to zero across all channels. You haven't by any chance got any throttle channel mixes on? It does unfortunately sound as the throttle control on the TX may be at fault. As you say it works perfect with another TX. Cant really help you with the Optic TX as I am a Specky man.   Al

Hi Bob   Are you changing Receivers when you test it with the old TX? It could posibly  be the receiver. Try it on another servo channel to elimate the servo. I would also try another servo in the throttle channel.   Al   Edited By Alan B on 05/04/2010 13:32:54

Thanks Mark  I will also keep the tip in mind.   Hi Shades - its a shame you have been having problems   If the u/c servos are not set up properly they will quite easily burn out.  Just be aware that if you are replacing the u/c servos that one of the wing u/c servos is reversed! to get them both going in the same direction   If you have your own decent TX then you should be able to put one servo on another channel other than the gear and mix the channels to get everything going the same direction.   Othewise you will have to buy one reversed servo. Somebody else can help you out here as I'm not sure - but I think you can either open up the servo and reverse the wiring or you can get a reversing connection to go inbetween the servo and the RX.   Keep persevering - it will be worth it in the end!   Al

Hi David  Yes its Barkstons hallowed Tarmac!    As far as duration goes.  Well I had a problem with my computer editing the clips (long story) so what you see on the video is the full unedited actual flight times.   On the slower low circuits I used a Flightmax Zippy 3S 11.1v 2200 Mah 25c Lipo The post flight reading  was 11.48 volts.   On the Higher speed rolls and loops I used the supplied Starmax 3S 11.1v 2200 Mah 20c Lipo. The post flight reading was 11.2 volts   On both flights the timer was set at 5 minutes. So I would say to be on the safe side you would looking at 6 minutes maximum at a push. Depends on your style of flying I suppose.   The supplied battery (cheap & Cheerfull) was worked hard and was quite hot. Marks suggestion of cutting a vent in the back of the nosewheel well is probably a good idea to get a bit of air around the battery.   In conclusion – it’s a lovely model and I’m very pleased with it.

Its been a while!   Well having the time and the good weather coming both at once!  Below is a video as promised Mike.   Although it was a little breezy and mainly across the strip. I thought the model performed well. There are 2 videos together. The first part is flying low and fairly slow and the second part is high speed with rolls and loops etc   Al  Edited By Alan B on 22/03/2010 20:19:17

Cheers Dave - I'm very lucky - she is brill!  Thanks for the grass comment!.  Looks like a bit of very low inverted flying then!  Kill 2 birds with one stone and all that!   I totally agree with you on using a good sim like the Phoenix - Invaluable training!

Yes you can still throw them around to a certain extent but the Raptor 50 Titan below has now the extra weight and it is affected by the wind more.  Looks good now though hovering above a hedge!   As for cost - compliments of a very understanding girlfriend at birthday time   Which reminds me - birthday coming up soon again  

Nice one DW - sounds like you have now broken the Bottle Barrier!  Mines gone now and I have started fitting body kits to mine now for slow scale cruising - "At least they look like real Helicopters now" - comment from my other half!

Thanks Richard -I will bear that in mind   My girlfriend always says that we are a bunch of battery strokers and Anoraks! However always said in jest!. As I always say about her hobby - whats the point in taking your life in your hands riding a half ton animal who's basic interest is to eat grass all day- eject you when the feeling takes it - and following it around 7 days a week cleaning up disgusting recycled grass! Still again - said in Jest!   Going slightly off thread - ref People. A guy visited yesterday and parked behind me in the drive just as I was taking my Raptor 50 heli out of the boot ready for a quick buzz in the back field.   Is it just me or do people always ask the same three questions and say one statement   "How much does it cost? - How high does it go?(my favourite!) - Is it easy to fly?" followed by  I have always fancied getting one of those and I knew a bloke who tried it and smashed it to pieces!  shame really it cost him alot of money!   Ring any bells?  This also applies to planes aswell   Al      

I Know what you mean!  Balsa bashing again for the first time in 25 years.  As a moment of impulse I bought a Galaxy Gazelle which was my first i/c plane those many years ago. I even still have the original OS 40 to go in it which was in the first original.   On opening the box I was presented with a mass of balsa bits. I can see why now ARTF is more appealing to me! It took me ages to track down my old sanding block in the garage.  After having a go with the block I soon got bored and out came the electric detail sander!   Well at least I know it will be built properly! Probably in about 6 months at this rate!  Having diversed on your original question. Having done sanding in the past indoors and experienced dust in every crevice and orifice possible (including me) its sanding outdoors for me every time  - as Ernie said - Let the wind do the cleaning up!   My theory to repurchasing this plane was that I couldn't fly it very well in those days (was it me or the plane!) -so I would like to see now just how good I am now and see what I can do with it. I doubt if I can prop hang it like my Hangar 9 Extra 260.  Memory lane eh! - part of me wished I hadn't bothered - I used to love - but now hate sanding!  Edited By Alan B on 18/03/2010 11:16:56

My Raptor 50 runs about 10-12 mins approx - so you are probably not to far out. The bigger the engine the more thirsty they are!.  as Barnseyboy as just commented on the 90's.

No probs - good luck later -  Can you not get a link with the click Here? - or are you out of time?  If you do get chance to have a look. I have pepped up the colour scheme on mine!  Flew mine inside last night in a large Hangar. If the weathers good tomorrow I think I will give mine a go in the back field.

Hi Craig    Here are a few comments I made in a previous thread  CLICK HERE   They are a little twicthy till you get used to them.  They will take off no problem off a Gym floor - hand launch at full throttle - underhand or above head - whichever you prefer over grass. The trick is flying outside is to let it get some height first and then correct and then trim. Once you have the CofG right they will cruise well at just above half throttle. Flight times are approx 5 mins with a 110 mah lipo.   Oh - and dont have any expo on the sticks - in my opinion it flys better. you need a nice crisp reaction.   Al    Edited By Alan B on 05/03/2010 10:56:37

Just seen this on morning TV  - GREAT!   Plus other classics!

Holographic Simulators   Wireless TX buddy systems   Micro high resolution onboard cameras at affordable prices   I'm still around to see it!

51   All the discplines mentioned but my main 3 regulars   Elec Aerobatics (incl 3D) Elec Helis I/c Helis   Started at about 8 yrs old with a Keilcraft Ajax glider and a Keilcraft soft plastic RTF Control Line Hurricane .049 glow engine (flew like a brick on a string!)

Ok    I personally would try to keep it light.  Even with a bigger battery and a scale up. I think you could probably do it with only a extra  300 - 400 grams.   Well good luck with your build/project - it would be nice to see the end result in the future

Hi   Still cant get my head around it. If say the 2-2.5 lb is equivalent to approx 1100 grams   1100 divided by 5.5 grams is approx  182  sq yds or 1638 sq feet of tape  or for arguments sake - if you used only half that - that still would be 91 sq yds! thats alot of aluminium tape.  the other detail must be very heavy or the model is huge!   just looked at the link.  Nice model ! - I would have thought you would have only needed about  3 to 4 sq yds of alumium at the most -  22 grams - so where would the kilo + of weight come from   AlEdited By Alan B on 11/02/2010 16:19:55