Dad_flyer
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Everything posted by Dad_flyer
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Axle found, cut, bound. I think it will need a washer between the frame and the wheel bushes.
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Bad weather this weekend, so no flying. Pasted part of the plan to a board to give some parallel lines with a good centre line. Screwed down the clamps and the wire frame. I could not get saddle clamps for 16SWG, so these are flat ones filed out. Fettled the fit by filing the bamboo skewer, then tacked the skewer with super glue. Filed the wire clean and roughed bound with fuse wire. And soldered. Seems all solid. Now to remove the skewer and find where I put the 14SWG for the axle.
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I am not that much further on from you, but I have been learning and finding my wrong ways of doing it, watching others and learning a lot from this forum The best version of indestructible is learning from someone who can fly, using a 'buddy box'. They take control when you panic! This means find a friend, or find a club then a friend. The other thing is, if you like building, then if you built it you can re-build it. The Mayfly (Free plan) was designed for beginner builders and beginner flyers in the 60s and has been my go-to when the buddy was absent. Partial build notes here. It is small, so flying days are a bit limited for wind. 'old timer' models like the Junior 60 that Peter recommends were designed for simple early radio or even free flight. They are inherently stable, they know how to fly and you just try not to disturb that too much. There may be more to learn in the step up to a more agile model, but the first step can be more satisfying.
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There are several multi-engine models on my wish list, and that is the cost for many of them. You need four motors and four ESCs. Then it is a largeish model to look good, so it has sturdy retracts which are costly. The actual airframe is not expensive, as Piers says. It certainly puts me off until I think I won't break it first flight. But then, most of the expensive bits would probably survive.
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Multiplex have a free simulator. I think it will run with a game controller if you have not got a transmitter. The keyboard control does not work, but there is a transmitter picture which might be functional on a touchscreen. None of those are as easy to use as a transmitter, but they are free and easy to have a quick go.
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I went with Child_flyer and Child_nonflyer on Saturday. We did not use the carparks, but went to the park and ride. Very quick to get from there to the site, but then a 45min queue as they had only a couple of people checking bags, and four checking tickets, for 10,000+ visitors. Very many helpful staff and volunteers around, just not assigned to jobs which would get people in to the show. Great flying displays, and beautiful weather. Unfortunately they had not worked out that everyone would want to see all the flying, and then want to leave at the end of the day. 2hrs queue for the bus. Still well worth the trip to see historic aircraft in those numbers, but the problems getting in and out makes me inclined to make it a one off rather than let's go back next year. Stopped off at the Shuttleworth collection on Sunday. Really worth a visit, and definitely planning to go back there.
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You want to leave the ESC leads unchanged for programming. The different BECs may cope being connected together, without a load, but may not. You could take the positive wire out if of each socket input to the Y leads instead. Then the BECs are still not connected to eachother, but you butchered the Y lead instead of the lead from the ESC.
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Re: covering for sheet balsa in the earlier posts. I started with water based dope last year. It was OK, but felt very like a one-shot process. The dope is water based, so doping and wet shrinking the tissue are a single thing. Then when the dope cures it is set (on your brush as well). I tried 'real' dope on tissue this summer. It is a very different process, and it is particularly nice that the dope softens with thinners, so you can re-activate it (and get brushes ready to use again). It also dries really quickly, so you can see what you are doing, and get on with the job. I have not yet tried shrinking over an open structure with it. Specifically for the question of strength of covering sheet balsa, I did tissue and real dope on a 36" model, over mainly 1/16 and 3/32 balsa sheeting. A much smaller model than yours, but the surface that I got is really nice and feels as though it has a lot of strength and ding resistance. The downside is somewhere to do it that is well ventilated (outside...), dry, not windy, not dusty, not too sunny.
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It is a month since that last post, I still have not got the soldering iron out, or for that matter the receiver plugged in. Went to the Shuttleworth collection yesterday, which was an excellent day out. Child_nonflyer wants his done in the markings of their SE5a, so we have lots of photos... It is this one that has the underside cream at the tail. I had seen the cream underside in photographs of some examples, but of course in photographs of the underside you usually cannot see the other markings to tell which one it is. I painted it in cream first, as that would be easier to change to dark if necessary. It turns out the cream one is the one I needed.
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Junior 60 Equipment Advice
Dad_flyer replied to Andy Goddard 2's topic in Electric Flight for Beginners
That is a nice neat build. -
Several flights last week, and 6 more today. Today there was a bit more wind, and it flies vey nicely in calm or not. For the last couple I put the undercarriage back on. Takeoff first time was again difficult. Eager to leave the ground, but seemingly too slow to fly once airborne. Also a rapid roll to the right which was hard to counter with no ailerons. Second takeoff ended nose down/on its back. Gave up and hand launched. Flying was fine, and landing ok (never going to be as easy as belly landing). Covering is now finished, in homage to the Wot Trainer which gives really clear orientation. The Eascoat red is rather orange. Several things to try next: 1: Is it just me? - get someone else to try it on the wheels. 2: More power. I shall need to make more space for cooling ESC and Battery. 3: Connect up ailerons. 4: Make a lower undercarriage, or a belly skid.
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Miss Deeds or 1/4 semi scale Cassutt
Dad_flyer replied to Erfolg's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
I have been looking at various wing plans with sheeted l.e., t.e. and cap strips and wondered why not fully sheeted. The solid shape held open by the ribs should take away a lot of the need for stiffness in the spar as well? -
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