Dad_flyer
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Everything posted by Dad_flyer
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A lovely evening flying, slightly marred by a tree which jumped out on me... the tail... and the nose. The wings are fine. I have all the bits, a pot of superphatic and a spare prop.
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Halfords plastic primer rattle can is also recommended by many. I have only got as far as a test piece with it. It sprays well and sticks to the covering when in the workshop. Not sure what will happen in real life though.
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Charge leads always seem too thick to me. They tend to match the main battery leads, which are designed for our high discharge currents of at least 10C. Charging at 1C does not need a thick cable. 4-Max have a useful chart of current capacity for different wire size. Check your charge current against that.
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Suggestions for replacing dead Wots Wot
Dad_flyer replied to Winco Steve's topic in All Things Model Flying
If Wots Wot is what you wanted, Sussex Model Centre list them as in stock on their web site. Worth a call to check. -
I think you are now ready to test it on the bench. This diagram is now basically the same as page 10 of the manual. If you set the resistors for your safe LED current at maximum voltage then whatever method it uses for brightness control will not harm anything. Then try changing the brightness. If it uses PWM then this should work. If it changes the voltage then the LEDs will dim more rapidly than you expect, and will go out completely somewhere about 20-50%. I don't quite see how it could vary the voltage, as all LEDs take the same supply pin and the separate switches are on the ground side. I think it therefore does use PWM and will just work for you. Good luck!
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I have put two LEDs on channel 1 and only one on channel 2. I have also shown DW's suggestion of using one wire to the positive supply rather than a separate wire all the way for each LED. Either will work. From page 46 of the manual it seems to day that it uses PWM for dimming. This is slightly different from the PWM for servo control, it basically switches the LEDs on and off rapidly and the amount of on compared to the amount of off gives the brightness. There is something on page 46 that seems to say that you should not use the servo connections at the same time as the switch channels 11 and 12, although both are used in the diagram on page 10. I have not really read the manual, just skimmed through the pictures...
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New- 2018 CONCORDE for 4x50mm EDF
Dad_flyer replied to Tony Nijhuis's topic in Tony Nijhuis plan builders
I dared to hope I could manage the 50mm version if it came out as a plan. Must do more flying and learning. And get a bigger shed. -
Diagram A from Plummet will work well. LED brightness is set by the current, and in that setup all the LEDs get the same current, going through one then the next. It would even be ok for different colour LEDs if they are designed for the same current. You need a high enough supply voltage for the sum of the LED voltage s. Diagram B shares the current between several LEDs. If the LEDs were identical, then the shares would be equal, however the characteristics of LEDs make that unlikely even for LEDs from the same bag. They will take different current and be different brightnesses. The brightest may even blow. To put the LEDs side by side, each column needs it's own resistor to set the current. You can combine them together after the resistors and before the switch.
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The ia6B I think works with the external voltage module FS CVT01. I have that sensor on a 10ch FlySky receiver. The FSia6 (not B) cannot use the external module, but there is a relatively simple hack that allows you to monitor an external voltage instead of the receiver voltage using the built-in telemetry. I found several descriptions of how to do it on forums or blogs which were all a bit complicated as they tried to use the servo header pins as the voltage monitor connectors. If you solder a wire to the board it is a much easier modification: cut one track on the board and solder on two wires for ground and monitor. It works well and the old version receivers are cheaper and lighter.Edited By Dad_flyer on 12/02/2019 22:06:15
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There complete Arduino kits, with instructions for mini projects with sensors (and servos!) I have used the Elegoo 'UNO super starter kits' from Amazon at home and at work. Cheap way to start, and you can actually do a lot with what is in the kit. The supplied wires are not good, but otherwise there are all the parts you need and I think they would get you started well. For the Arduino IDE, it is sometimes not obvious that you can download a stand-alone version to your pc. It can look as though you need to register and do everything online with the web-based IDE.
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I made the Flitetest Simple Storch as a quick route back after a crash before Christmas. The hot melt glue method works very well, and as plummet says it does edge reinforcing as well as joints. Take the build video advice on having a well-powered glue gun and plenty of long glue sticks ready. You are probably right that the shed will be too cold. The build will be quick and pretty clean, so will not cause too much distruption in the house.
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That's exactly what I was thinking, but have not got round to doing.
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I have the same, a 14v with dead battery. Replaced it a few years ago with a new Bosch as that was cheaper than a new battery. However, now that I fly, and fly electric, I have batteries and connectors and wiring. It should be possible to use a 4s for a 14.4v drill. The max charge voltage if 12 Nicad is about the same as max for a 4s, but it might be safer using the 4s at 4v/cell not 4.2 max. I should try putting a connector on the drill, then I could use any battery I have anyway. Just now it is snowing and child_nonflyer and child_flyer and I need to be outside!
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Thanks. Nigel R
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How low a temperature is OK for lipo storage? I have just started and wonder if the garage will be ok if we have a long cold spell like we had last winter.
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Sanding sealer done all over. Some of the tissue done, but not had much good weather to do that outside. The article in this month's RCM&E was useful for techniques of covering solid areas. More time spent on the film covering, but I am still very slow, so not much to show for it. I have a job lot of cheap yellow Easycoat that was on offer. It will all be painted. There was a small twist in the wing, I had re-glued the leading edge to the ribs when I saw it was not quite stuck down, after taking it from the board. Not a great idea. Luckily I saw a method somewhere of holding it twisted back past straight and re-shrinking the open underside. This seems to have worked. I shall keep an eye on it to see if it slips back before I fix the wings.
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How long have you been in the hobby?
Dad_flyer replied to SONNY MONKS's topic in All Things Model Flying
I had a very poor start with a Cox 049 CL model I picked up in a jumble sale when a teenager. Never even got the motor started. Child_flyer found it last Easter, and with the marvels of the internet we found out what it actually was, got a new reed and seals. Also got the correct fuel this time. So finally had the motor going and kindled an interest. Child_flyer wanted to fly, and that was clearly not the right model to begin with so we started off with a couple of rubber free flight, then found that a friend flies RC and we have gone from there. Only 9months but loving it. Seeing the stick and tissue rubber model that I made actually fly was like being a kid again. -
Saw a newly completed one down at the patch today. The builder was very happy with it, it looks beautiful and it flew well - his first electric model. It was already on my list for 'when I am further on with learning to fly'.
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Little time to progress recently, and I have been trying out finishing methods. Tissue and dope for tail and fuse, Easycoat for wings, which are open underneath. I have not done iron on before. Test pieces are now ok, so on to the real thing next session. What servo torque do I need? the parts are, so far, heading for a flying weight which will be under the design weight of 24oz/680g. 9g plastic gear 1kg-cm will be plenty? Will 5g servos at 0.6kg-cm be big enough? The smaller servos would allow a full depth cockpit for an alternative pilot who fancies a go.
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Very little progress this week. Strut holes cut in lower wings. Wing tips blocked up, and one shaped. Blocked up, but my 12mm balsa is actually 9mm, so needed an extra bit on top. Rough shape with a razor plane. One tip shaped. Corners will be rounded a little in the end.
