Chili Pants

I have used this to great effect, apply glue and hold canopy in place with tape until set, it is used by jewelers to affix jewels in watches etc, drys crystal clear as well and any excess is easily cleaned away, although with the applicator its hard to make a mess. Got mine £2.99 on the bay, you cant go wrong with this stuff.

Thanks for the suggestion Martin, we used to have a Bulldog and its not quite the same, there is a slight flare up in the fuselage just behind the canopy on this and the canopy is located further forward on the Bulldog but it is similar. I should have mentioned that I noticed that what ever the mold was made from originally had a separate cowl but it looks like they must have joined it to the fuzz to make the mold, on this one piece fuzz you can see a faint join line where the cowl and fuzz were mated. Also the canopy is just made up from an old one that dad had laying around, so that profile could be different as well. Again thanks for taking the time to reply, this has been bugging the heck out of my father for at least 30yrs.

Here are a couple of models my father built many moons ago that I have just refurbished, I have re painted the Curare from top to bottom the other model I just clear coated and tried to fix some of the hanger rash. Neither have flown yet but are ready to go, the red, green and gold model is of unknown origin, so if anyone has any ideas as to what it is please let me know, even my father does not know what it is called, he got the glass fuzz sometime in the late 70s early 80s all he can remember is a friend of his called "Bill" brought it back from Ellesmere Port, the wings and tailplane are made from Curare foam cores and the slight curved tail fin fillet was added by my father, originally the tail/fuzz junction was much more angular.

Daire, do the ESc`s have ferrite rings? these are used to help cut interference from ESC`s, if there is not one fitted try one. If there is a ferrite ring already on the lead that goes to the receiver try moving it to along the cable a bit, also if the cable only has one wrap through the ring try adding more, you could also look at how the ESC power lead is located in relation the the receiver antenna (close proximity can cause issues)

Posted by David Begg 1 on 06/06/2019 20:26:56: I have successfully used a LiFe battery in my T8FG. However it MUST be removed from the TX for charging. I purchased the battery from HobbyKing, Zippy 2500 6.6 volt %c Rx series On a bar code is 2200008691158 Hope this assists you. David, please excuse my ignorance but why must the battery be removed from the transmitter? is it because the circuitry within the transmitter would not be able to handle a Life charger with a suitable adapter and its ability to deliver a higher Amp charge rate? Sorry for the hijack Collin, I also use LiFepo4 in my Futaba 9c and 7c. I also remove the batteries for charging but I am slightly concerned about causing undue wear on the connectors.

Could be unrelated but......coincidence and all that. For info, all relevant information, I found the possible implications of the last sentence interesting. https://phys.org/news/2019-06-amazon-drones-months.html

Great news for anyone interested in this classic, there are updated plans available now on AeroFred, they are done in DWG format, which is very useful should you want parts laser cut. Additionally the poster of these plans has put up two versions, a traditional style build and one for a more modern build using a lighter turtle deck design. In case you are interest in doing one of these builds I would also like to let you know that Sarik Hobbies are able to provide canopies for the Curare on request, the quality of these canopies is flawless, I had one made by them about six months ago for my Sunshine Models Curare build (I didnt like the included kit canopy)

I did wonder if they were based on the same calculation method, I have tried them both, its just I found this one more user friendly also I like that you can input your batteries C rate and get what the IR is supposed to be and that it gives a C rate based on our IR without doing any headwork, the V drop is a nice touch as well.

I have been looking at IR and C rating recently, I have quite modest requirements for C but its nice to know these things, I just picked up a cheap charger that can read IR, though it will mostly be used monitor the lipo`s health occasionally. To get IR or C rate I used this on line tool, quite simple to use, just input your battery details, dont know how accurate it is as I am new to all this electric stuff but it saves me from making my head hurt. Here`s the link https://www.soko-heli-tools.com/calculators

Mike, great looking job on the Hurricane. I do not have one but I do use the E-max GT4020/07 to power a Hyperion Yak54 40E, I use a larger propeller due to the cowl on the yak on a 4000 mah 4s battery, it is "hot" set up in more ways than one! I don`t know if you are aware but there are some reports on the web of people getting some prop slip on these higher power E-max motors, due to the prop adapter back-plate/washer not having any crosshatching grip machined in. Initially all was good (first twenty or so flights) Well I thought this was happening to mine, it was great on ground testing but once under load in the air it produced a sound exactly like a propeller slipping, kind of a zipping sound. You could see the propeller slowing down exactly as if the prop was slipping (the pitch of the sound increased as the prop slowed) The first time it happened was on take off and I just managed to save her, that was when I read up on the motor and found some information on prop slipping, I rectified this by putting some cross hatching on the prop washer and some emery paper on the back plate and tightened up the prop nut as hard as I could, bench tested it and all was good. A couple of weeks later, off to fly it again and on take off the same noise and the same slowing prop, luckily I caught it just before take off this time, I rechecked he prop nut for tightness and made several more attempts with the same result, once the prop was under take off load, that zipping sound and the propeller visibly slowing down. Perplexed I did some more research and found one chap on line who described the same issue with this motor (fine on ground test but once loaded in the air problems ensued) the fix was simple, even though the motor ran great on the ground, the ESC timing was the problem and had to be set to high, once I did that the problem was solved, now pulls like a train, awesome power. Sorry for the long post but I thought it best to give as much information as possible, it was a tricky problem to pin down, myself and several of the club flyers were convinced it was the prop slipping. Greg

Sorry to hear of your recent ill health Martyn, hope all is under control for you there. Touche is looking really slick, I like the color scheme as well, I just started a Curare build, I will be going all electric with her, if I can get it looking half as good as your Touche I will be well chuffed (first build in 40+ yrs) Hope she flies as good as she looks.

Enjoy it, she is a nice flier, the Fw190 was my first flight after a 40yr lay off, so must be pretty easy to fly. Hope the weather is good for you , if not plan B ..........pub!

Dont get to confused Simon, if you go by your watt meter results from the stock set up, as a guide for your new prop/power output you wont go far wrong, my Dynam Fw190 on stock set up she flies with more than enough power, so as long as you are around those numbers you should be good to go. I fly mine at around half to three quarter throttle for a more scale like flight, I did send a Email to Ecalc about their results with this motor but have not heard back from them yet. I would ignore the recommended prop sizes in the motor spec sheets, they seem to me to be simply wrong, if they were the correct specs there would be an awfully large number of posts about burnt out motors etc from Dynam fliers as this motor is fitted to quite a few of their models. As you fly from grass you might consider removing the landing gear doors (couple of screws) they can cause a nose over all on their own, no mater how good the landing (mine spun around on the oleo leg and pressed up against the back of the wheels ..... just like a brake!!!)

No problem Simon, glad to be of some help. I`m glad you posted your test results, they will surely be of help to other people, its also good to see that the motor and esc are running well within specifications on the stock setup. From what I understand, yes watts = power, if you could after testing the new prop, would you post the results? Greg

Simon, here are a couple of screen shots from Ecalc based on that Detrum motor,(it looks daunting but is very simple to use) both stock prop and larger 2 bladed ones. I have to say that I have in the past found Ecalc a very useful tool and simple to use, well worth the couple of quid subs. I have found Ecalc is slightly conservative with its results, however on this occasion I think the results are extremely conservative, from the way my Fw190 flies with the stock setup, I believe that it must be producing at least 400 watts, (at least) that is why I did not put the screen shots up initially, to me the 14x7 should be a safe bet for you. If you notice according to Ecalc this prop gives slightly less watts than the three bladed job. There is quite a large discussion on this model and various mods done on another forum (RCG) one of the most common mods done to help with the nose over issue is to put some spacers under the rear of the retract mounts (lolipop sticks) to angle the retract slightly forward, I have done this mod and it does help but does not eliminate the nose over problem. Hope this is of some help. Greg.

I have a Dynam FW190 it is fitted with a Detrum BM3720A3-KV500, the motor specs can be found here :- http://www.dynam-rc.cn/Product/view/id/280.html I have run this motor through Ecalc with a 4s setup and this shows the motor could handle a larger 2 bladed prop quite easily but it is always best to use a watt meter.