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George P.

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Everything posted by George P.

  1. George P.
    It looks very handy.
  2. George P.
    Fourth time lucky?
  3. George P.
    Could never pass up on a Spitty!
  4. George P.
    I underSTAND there is a jolly good prize on offer.
  5. George P.
    Watt fun!
  6. George P.
    Posted by Martin Gilbert 1 on 30/10/2020 09:30:59: I notice that the small air intake scoops on each side of the cowling do not seem to have been opened up by anyone on their completed model. Is then the large opening at the front end of the cowling sufficient to provide cooling air for the esc etc.? I presume so - just checking. I have had no problems at all just using the inlet at the front end of the cowl. I have placed the esc at the bottom of the bulkhead so that the air travels over this before exiting through the gap between the bottom of the fuse and the bottom of the cowl.
  7. George P.
    Nice project. Looks to be good value. It will stand out on the flight line too.
  8. George P.
    That's a great scheme, Ady. Well done. sir. I had thoughts of changing the scheme on mine but I do like the yellow in the air. I haven't flown mine this year, yet. A 1/4 scale would be nice I bet.
  9. George P.
    I find my 1/4 size a P.I.T.A. to get in and out of doorways and so a removeable tail plane would be a must for me. Is the bolt accessed from the bottom of the fuse? Through the inspection hole?
  10. George P.
    Hi kc, Many thanks for your time in finding the article and passing on the info. I have read useful warnings on this forum regarding the rigging system and read that several people have experienced failures and so I have now fitted extra flying wires. I have had a gripper stop working and had to replace it but this was before the model was covered. Having replaced all the grippers with the mk2 I finished the model and when recently assembling it in the garden I experienced another acting up. It grips at times and not others. I used oil as advised but this does not seem to have worked. My Pup is gaining in weight with these extras but I did read somewhere (I think it was on this forum) that Peter Lowe had to add 51/2 lbs in weight to balance it? I found a YouTube clip of it flying and it looks good but the speed was kept up, presumably as it was a maiden and the v engine was running in/ a bit rich? Anyway, thanks again kc.
  11. George P.
    Hi All, I am very interested to read Peter Lowe's comments on the Pup. I have read a couple of the build articles but never found out what he thought of it. Can anyone confirm this is the correct issue, or if someone could email me a copy that would be great. Just a summary of what he wrote would suffice. I am interested to find out how much weight he had to add/ was he happy with the rigging system etc.
  12. George P.
    Magnifying glasses! My eyes are getting older and at a time when my planes are getting smaller!
  13. George P.
    Posted by Geoff S on 08/07/2020 17:54:57: I didn't think making a rubber band easier to wind/unwind would be so controversial! I should have known better Pity I didn't think earlier, George. You could have tossed me a small sample yesterday when we surveyed our possible new site. Thanks again everyone. Geoff Yes, that would have been an idea. If the weather etc. ever improves I may see you up the flying field this year yet! I remember building a KeilKraft SE5A when I was thirteen. It had ribs etc printed onto a piece of sheet which was the same as the control liners I had been building but was on a more miniature scale. Great fun, I am sure you will enjoy it. The Dope was a costly addition but as the model store owner remarked I would have enough for several planes. My next couple of own design control line stunters were in PC10/Olive Drab!
  14. George P.
    Geoff, If you research the web you will find a whole host of suggestions but I have read that the advantage of using silicone based lube is that you do not get splatters inside your fuselage that messes up your tissue covering. I have used a silicone based one from Free Flight supplies if I remember correctly. Does the trick (as far as my very limited experience of rubber power goes that is) and no splatters. While you are at it, you will need a rubber winder! Oh, and make a stooge. Also start reading up on blast tubes and dethermaliser types; you will not need them yet but it will be only a matter of time!!! Beware! The building and flying of these models is very addictive. I started with one (just to pass a bit of lockdown time) and now have four!
  15. George P.
    They are covered in Oracover and so fuel proof. It was always my practice to add fuel proofer to the bulkhead/ tank area when I used to fly i.c. in an artf. However, a.r.t.f.s have improved considerably since then and I believe the bulkhead is already proofed. Worth checking over and proofing yourself if you feel it needs it.
  16. George P.
    Mine is on a 360kv motor and 6s 5000ma lipo. On a 17x10 APC I get 1378 watts at 60 amps as tested on the ground. I set my timer for eight minutes and land with about 30% left in the lipo. Scale flying at around half throttle. It weighs 10.75lbs and so around 128 watts per lb. I have been used to flying a 3d model with 220 watts per lb and so although I am sure the APC 17x8 I tried on the ground would be good at 1215 watts and 51.78 amps, at the moment I prefer the little extra power for some manoeuvres; although if I ever get flying again I will try the 17x8 to compare.   Edited By George P. on 12/06/2020 12:57:10 Edited By George P. on 12/06/2020 12:58:27
  17. George P.
    I used the cockpit coaming included in the DB Pup kit and covered that with a strip of leather material. Then I drilled holes for the eyelets and then threaded through the cord. Given my modelling skills, I was hoping for a sport-scale feel without messing things up too much!
  18. George P.

    George P. posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  19. George P.

    George P. posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  20. George P.
    Superb detailing (as usual), Ceejay. I am following with interest and to get tips. I have built a DB 1/4 scale Pup that I was hoping to maiden when I was up at Ashbourne this Spring until Lockdown put an end to that. I suppose there is still time though. I have put some rib stitching on it and some other scalish details but was hoping to maiden and see whether the rigging gripper system fails before going to the effort of painting the roundals and adding some cowl detail. I have been regretting not choosing a 1/4 scale Fokker D7 and not having the hassle of rigging wires ( I will be folowing your Fokker build). I may still build one if the Pup does a wing fold up!
  21. George P.
    Hi Dwain, Just a thought, if you reversed the black prop bearing then it looks like it would be a good fit into the cowl ( you could glue this in position) and the prop would run on the pointy dome shaped bit ?
  22. George P.
    Wow, Jonathan, that whole Braiding thing is something else! Very informative. Glad I only have to get my head around how to lube and wind a loop of Tan Supersport (or so I think it is)
  23. George P.
    Forgot picture...
  24. George P.

    George P. posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  25. George P.
    Hi Dwain, That's a great looking model and build. I like the registration letters. I have also turned to Rubber to occupy the Lockdown hours! I have just finished building a little Cessna which was great fun. I haven't done any tissue covering for a long time and thought I would go the Ezedope route. I will use it again because the lack of smell and water clean up makes it,,eh..'Eze'! However, I have learned from reading the comments of many skilled rubber flyers that it needs the correct method and as such is perhaps not so 'Eze' as Dope. It was a lot of pinning down and fingers crossed overnight until I could unpin, examine and sigh with relief. I will follow with interest to see how you get on. I am waiting for some calm weather so I can give it a test glide or two and then I will need to get into the strange and wonderful world of lube and winding!
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