Doug Ireland

Thanks for the replies. I've tried a few UK stockists but they are all out of stock and they don't seem to know when they will get any in. i have an ASP 52 that I tried to convert to petrol but I just can't seem to get the mixture right. Then I saw these little EVO carbs and I'd give one a try.

Hi folks, Does anyone know of a UK supplier for an Evo 10GX carb assembly? Cheers, Doug.

Posted by Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 07/09/2013 11:25:25: I always add a few layers of PTFE tape (the sort used by plumbers) to the manifold thread before screwing the manifold into the head (right in as Martin Harris sez...) & fitting the silencer. Use a correctly fitting spanner to nip them up.....job done!! I've never had one come loose......yet!! (OK.... BEB?? ) Something to be wary of when using thread tape. Don't use too much or you can/will crack the head or silencer!

The aircraft from the original "Fligh of The Phoenix" film. I've had a go in the past but I can't get the rear fuselage right. Stringers don't work (or look right) and that back end is incredibly difficult to sheet!

I trashed my brand new H9 CAP232 some years ago by failing to tighten the screw on one of the elevator servos after I'd attached the Elevator halves in the field. Regarding the type of connector you used. I've seen other people use them and thought to myself "that's gonna come apart one day". I'm a definite Z Bend user!

I voted "always" but I'm more self conscious than anything else. That's why I prefer to fly alone. Ducking now to avoid the flak about flying alone!

Yes they do Danny but they ain't cheap! Expect to pay a couple of hundred!

Interesting subject cymaz, have you tried emailing the WOO? He may have an answer.

I use my ipad (safari browser) most of the time for viewing this site and had the "empty box" thing once. Logging off the site and back in again worked for me.   The only other niggle I have is the lack of border at the left of the screen. A quarter of an inch would be great!  Edited By Doug Ireland on 02/09/2013 16:15:27

If you can afford them then wrap-around Oakleys with an orange tint are the way to go. I use them for shooting and flying my toys.

My method is the same used by Bob Cotsford. I use the thirty minute aliphatic for pretty much everything except Engine Bearers and Firewalls.

Thanks guys. I think I may still have those issues.

Hi Folks, Can anyone remember which month/year the magazine published Peter Millers article on designing your own models? cheers, Doug.

Thanks for the replies. The wiki page gave some good info and yes it does make a hell of a racket going overhead!

I'm working in Ragusa in Sicily at the moment and I saw an unusual aircraft hammering across the sky close to the rig I was working on. It was a (very noisy) twin with pusher props, Canard front end and a high "V" tail. Any idea what it is?

I bought a Dremel years ago and I've since added the flexi drive, drill press, a neat circular saw attachment and more bits than you could shake a stick at! Well worth every penny!

I went with Hitec. Used them for years and only had one strip it's gears though it was entirely my fault! If I could afford JR then I'd buy them.

Posted by Peter Miller on 24/07/2013 07:53:51: Make your own out of tinplate. Thn you can get exactly the size you want. Solder a 20 mm conduit bush (cut down to 6 mm long) in the front and you can use standard tank bungs and clunks etc. I've made a lot of fuel tanks in the past but never thought of the 20mm bush until I built your "Miss Demeanor". All the ones I've made since have been to your design. Cheers Peter!

Posted by Levanter3 on 24/07/2013 14:42:26: Thank you Engine Doctor. I will keep up my search for the right sized screw that will get a good grip. The frustrating thing is that once this is out everything else is plain sailing. Except that is for the left hand camshaft bearing! But I haven't threatened that yet. Maybe I should have a go at the two, as you say with the engine hot. You could try the hydraulic method to extract that bearing. Fill the bearing with something like EP2 grease, place the Camshaft over the opening in the the bearing then give the other end a smack and the grease should force the bearing out.

Nice one Tony! Thanks a bunch.

Hi Folks, I'm having a bit of a problem identifying an aircraft flying around Bournemouth Airport. It looks like a Sailplane in that it has a long very tapered wingspan, very thin rear fuselage and "T" tail. I thought is was a Motorised Glider but it is twin engine. Any ideas?

Hi Martin, I'm sure the Teflon pad is only on one end of the pin as the piston is not drilled all the way through?

Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 27/02/2013 00:23:23: Some plastics degrade in sunlight - if it has been lying somewhere in the light that could be the cause. having said that some just degrade - full stop! A timely reminder for us all - especially if you're thinking of bringing an older model out of retirement - a very through check obviously needed. Take nothing for granted! BEB It's for that reason BEB that I make mine out of ally!

I've stripped a couple of Surpass engines before and can't recall having this problem. As I recall, once the liner is out you extract the small-end pin through a hole in the back of the cylinder barrel. A small wood screw in the hole of the nylon cap usually does it but if not there should be enough room inside the cylinder barrel (with the liner out) to allow you to get the big-end off the crank pin. A simple soak in boiling water of the piston and con rod assembly should be enough to get your recalcitrant small-end out. Once you get the pin out you may want to consider gluing the nylon pad back onto it as this is what stops the pin from scoring the inside of the liner. Edited By Doug Ireland on 21/07/2013 21:24:43

The problem with just enlarging a drawing is all the lines get thicker, making building that bit more difficult. If you could either get hold of the original CAD drawing or find someone that could transfer it to CAD format you will just have to put up with it.