Declan

I can assign the three switch positions no problem. It's where to enter the value for the different positions I cannot see. I can only see one offset setting box. I can assign different values to the air brake when switching between my low, high and 3D rates but that still means only one flap position in each rates setting.

The air brake on the T16iZ will do that also but I cannot see how to do two stage of 'flaps'. I might need to spend a long week dedicated only to the TX.

I'll download it and give it a read.

I've seen that description but I don't think that is 'Flaperons' Mixing actual flaps with ailerons is, as far as I understand it, a different thing. My understanding and previous usage of flaperons is this. You only have two moving control surfaces. Aileron left and aileron right. No actual flaps on the model. The flaperons setting allowed you to drop the ailerons on both sides downwards by whatever degree of movement or mm of travel you wished within the limits of aileron travel. So with no control stick input to aileron both ailerons would be dropped like flaps. Control stick inputs to the aileron would be unaffected and they would still respond as before allowing you to roll the wings as desired. The effect of the dropped ailerons mimicked the effects of flaps. This is my understanding of what 'flaperons' means. I did use this on my old Futaba 6ex. I've quoted the instructions from the Futaba 6ex manual below. Page 20 if you download it for reference. I have posted this question myself previously and no one has shown me the description below from the 6ex manual in any T16IZ manual. If it's there I cannot see it. As I said mixing actual flaps with ailerons is not flaperons IMO because flaperons specifically works on models with ailerons only. However, I'd be more than happy to be corrected because as I mentioned in my previous post the air brake function is similar but with only one offset setting which is not as good as the flaperons option from before. FLPR Flaperon mixing (ACRO only) This function allows the ailerons to be used both as ailerons and as flaps. The flap control switch (CH 6) operates the flap function. To use flaperon mixing both ailerons must be operated by separate servos.

Sorry this may be a bit late. Having upgraded from an earlier Futaba to a T16IZ I concur that flaperons have been removed from the programming as I tried to find it myself. Why, I don't know as it was a handy feature. Progress I suppose?? The air brake function will work but it only has one offset (flap) position. The old flaperons could be set with multiple flap positions. The T16IZ is a nice radio though that can be bound to many different Futaba RX protocols so I think it's quite versatile.

I did have a look on the Wheelspin models website where I ordered it. There does seem to be a good spares list with availability showing at the end of January. I went with the theory that being a new model spares should be available for the next few years. E flite seems like a well established brand and they have quite a line up of models. I'm not sure where they are made.

Coin flipped and Sportix is the one, order placed!

I've done the usual route of watching as many YouTube videos as I can. They are very similar so flip a coin time!

I'm looking for a fairly robust (foam) sporty/3D flyer and I'm picking between the Arrows Edge 540 and the E flite Sportix. Both are a nice size for keeping assembled at home and throwing in the van for a quick no nonsense flying session without too much drama. Has anyone got comments or feedback on either? I'm erring towards the Sportix at the moment. I like the look of the Arrows edge and I have an Arrows Marlin which is great. However, I've already got a Weston Cougar so I think I might be duplicating model types a bit here in my hangar. The Sportix looks more like a pattern flyer I think. Both seem similar in size and will work with my current stock of batteries.

Eric, lovely flying and the model looks great. I've seen Mark on YouTube and I'm experimenting with his polyester covering on my tail surfaces. I've also often thought that the wind turbines look really close on YouTube but I guess that's a bit of an optical illusion and they're just really big. Father Ted cows joke scenario.

Is this the one battery in the nose test? Interesting. I'm trying to do some planning ahead with regards to battery purchasing. I now have three models that use my 4S 2600 batteries from 4Max. This is quite a nice situation to be in. George at 4Max directing me to the power setup for the Me110 suggests 4S 3700 mAh batteries along with a smaller battery for the ubec to the receiver. We've already covered that requirement in this thread and I'm probably going to just use the two batteries an dispense with the ubec. My next thought process is some streamlining of battery purchasing with regards to models. I don't have a model that will take the 4S 3700 mAh battery and from what I can see not likely to have one in the near future. I'd need six of them to give me three flights on the Me110 on a flying day. I am however, considering the purchase later in the year of an EDF jet upgrade to my current Arrows 64mm jet. The larger 80mm jets use 6S and 5000 mAh looks like a good middle ground for those. Going bigger still such as the twin jets like the Freewing Mig29 the doubling up of 6S seems common. So in the interest of some rationalisation could I use the 6S for the Me110, either a a single in the nose or dual in the nacelles? The weight and size will not be an issue for two given the models dimension. I may indeed have enough demand for 4S 3700 mAh in a few years time but I need to keep an eye on this years budget!

I bought this charger from Wheelspin models. https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/sky-rc-q200neo-charger-359172/ Basically an upgraded version of the one I have already and a reasonable price. I think there are other chargers that are branded differently but are the same. I can now do six batteries in one go, should be enough. I also like the fact that I'm already used to the SkyRc menu functions and display.

Thank you for all the replies. I was flying today so just getting back on the computer now. Lots to ponder and think about but good to hear the different approaches. I might just invest in another Sky Rc neo charger as they're not overly expensive and quite powerful. I'd have simultaneous charging for four batteries at that point. I think they're good chargers with a nice clear display. Not too early a start for charging my 4S packs. However, I've started looking at EDF's with 6s requirements..........😄

I currently have a Sky RC D200 neo charger. This is a fairly powerful charger I think. I am now starting to amass a larger number of lipo batteries which do take some time to charge. Given our unpredictable weather in this country and general safe practice I don't charge the batteries until I know I can fly. So this puts a bit of pressure in the morning to get up early and start charging. I was considering another charger of the same type but there are parallel charging boards out there. I'm mainly using 4s from 1800 to 3700mAh. So it it ok for charging regularly using a parallel board as they are much cheaper than another charger. Or do I go for another charger and a parallel board to cover all bases. Or do I go for a better charger that I'm not aware of but someone else can recommend. One that can charge 4 batteries in one go perhaps?

I agree completely but I cannot find flaperons in the Futaba programming. The only thing I've found similar is Air Brake with an offset for the ailerons.

I've had a read of that section in the manual. To me (and I could be wrong) it sounds like using the camber flaps as additional ailerons to improve roll rate as the camber flaps are then being used in addition to the ailerons for the aileron function. They would return to a neutral position when the TX stick is in the neutral position or return to their set position if deployed. But if you have camber flaps on the model you don't need flaperons?? The old flaperons was a simple offset of the ailerons by however many degrees with a simple switch. The air brake function does do this but so far I can only find one offset rate. The old flaperons setting allowed more than one offset position mimicking landing and take off flaps settings. There must be a way of doing it as I cannot imagine Futaba would add about 20 extra functions but remove that one!

I'll have a play around with the settings. My Futaba (T16IZ) doesn't have flaperons like my old Futaba. The setting I have used this time was for the air brake. I don't know why they removed flaperons from the programming? I've never considered doing it the other way around with the ailerons up! Maybe an experiment for me one day. TBH I'm a bit basic when it comes to radio programming as I learned to fly on more basic equipment. There are a lot of settings to play around with these days!

Finally managed to get a few flights done and I must say this is a very nice model to fly. The replacement undercarriage works perfectly and was very good on the landings cushioning the model superbly. Programmed in some flaperons which do give a lot of lift into the wind and it virtually hovers needing a fair bit of down elevator to bring it down. Maybe a mix to the elevator in the TX. So this is the last post probably and it's been a very enjoyable build experience and first few flights. Looking forwards to testing the model a bit more and experimenting with some 3D manoeuvres. First Cougar landing flaperons.mp4

There is a chap on YouTube called Mark Croucher who has a lot of experience and videos demonstrating the use of Polyester. I'm trying it myself on a build at the moment as an experiment also.

The model had it's maiden a few days ago. Some good some bad. I thought it was a good day as it was sunny with no wind. Longish story cut short culmination of factors and poor flying lead to a heavier than wanted landing which wasn't good for the undercarriage or prop. The undercarriage from one point of view did it's job of sacrificing itself to save the model without ripping the mounting plate out of the fuselage. Stronger undercarriage might have been better, maybe but in the category of what ifs. So looking for a new undercarriage (the model itself was fine) I opted to make my own as I couldn't source what I wanted in any shops. I went with 3mm aluminium strip 40mm wide and cut this down to the size I wanted, bent it into shape and fitted some larger wheels for our long grass runway. The upshot of the heavier undercarriage at the front of the model is all the weight I put in to balance it can now come out which makes battery fitting a much easier task! Fingers crossed for a better window of weather soon for flight #2.

Yes that is good stuff and i have a couple of rolls myself. It is pretty much the same as the modelling masking tape. Some of the modelling tape is much thinner such as 1mm and upwards in thickness which is much easier on curves etc. You can cut the frog tape into strips as some modellers do but I supposed that depends on your budget and how much free time you have.

The markings look really good. I think I'm going to give those paints a go when I get there, some time off though. I do have a cheap fence paint sprayer I'm also going to experiment with. I see you've painted the teeth over or are the pictures out of order? I've found most masking tapes for scale modellers are good. They've worked very well when I've assembled plastic kits. I'm also going to try a cricut machine to make the masks for my letters and markings. Again I'm experimenting here prior to my FW190 build which is sort of shelved while I do the 110.

😄 Don't give up the day job just yet!

What paints are you using Eric?

I need to nail down some sort of plan so that I can buy stuff! I think I'm going with the following. This seems the simplest with the fewest components that will work and is the last picture uploaded above by Chris. Two separate 4S batteries, two ESCs, one with BEC disabled the other powering directly to the RX, no UBEC. Will the cutting of the red wire from the ESC not being used to power the RX be enough to disable its BEC output or will it need to be programmed also? The yellow signal and black wires from the ESC's are connected prior to one plug entry into the receiver.