Ultymate
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Everything posted by Ultymate
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Posted by Dan Workman on 09/02/2018 10:25:58: Hi Brian how are you? Yeah doing a bit of f3a, this will be my second full year. I used another own design last year, it flew well but not as well as a Krill Spark i had so it never got used! Dan I'm fine thanks Dan too old for all the travelling that goes with competing but still enjoying my flying. I'm sure given your experience in aerobatics you'll do OK
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Hey up Dan, how you doing? having a bash at F3A are you ?
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It's degenerated into the usual tit for tat argument where everyone thinks what they do is best which was almost inevitable when the author typed in the title at post#1
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Posted by Jon Harper - Laser Engines on 17/01/2018 15:30:23: " especially if you bump the rudder in your efforts to open the throttle" The Joys of mode 2 flying ?
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Here's one I did earlier
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The only way I can see you not using exhaust pressure is to go to an electric pump like this Pump. I am of course assuming you've tried running your engine without pressure. The above pumps do work as a friend of mine has one on a inline 4 cylinder OS that he converted to petrol. Sadly the carbs fitted to glow engines are little more than dripping taps
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Model flying photos you're proud of
Ultymate replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in Photography
Brian Brassey's Yak 3U a friend from Deeside MFC shot back in October -
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P.A.W. 1.49 plain bearing - can't adjust compression
Ultymate replied to Tom Major's topic in IC Engines
When team racing I used to remove the standard "T" comp screw and replace with an allen socket screw , high tensile and sometimes a lock nut very easy to adjust with a long "T" handled allen key although once you got an optimum setting at the beginning of a days racing it was seldom that further adjustment was necessary unless there was a large change in ambient temperature. Here's a picture of an MVVS 15 in a Goodyear profile racer of mine that was modified this way -
Goldwing RC Corvus 60cc ARTF for electric set up
Ultymate replied to Adrian Smith 1's topic in Sport, Aerobatic and 3D kits
As usual liking your build Adrian, but I've seen one thing which I'm not over keen on, which is where you say "oh he's here again". The thing I don't like is your rudder 3"+ output arm using plastic splines. I've done this once in the past and had said plastic splines slip whilst flying some snap rolls which left me to deal with a massive amount of rudder "trim"which made for a very tricky return to base. Ever since I've used metal arms on rudder outputs as with such a long arm you are applying massive amounts of torque to those plastic splines. keep up the good work -
A brilliant video whatever your interests
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Have used dozens over the years without problems. The karbonite gears are a known no-no on petrol models as the vibrations tend to shatter the karbonite
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Posted by john stones 1 on 21/11/2017 17:07:19: Looking good Rich. Had the chance of an Sbach recently with twin in it for a really good price, too big for my car though. Nah, cars too small for your S bach
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A word of warning, about a week ago my DLE 120 sheared the four 5mm counter sunk set screws that hold the engine to the metal plate that then mounts to the said plate to the bulkhead via the standoffs with 6mm bolts. I was doing some 3D tumbling at the time which does I know induce fairly heavy gyroscopic loads, any way as I flew out of the tumble I was aware of a distinct change of note from the model and found that the throttle was jamned at nearly full throttle thanks to the engine moving forward in the cowl so had to promptly kill the ignition and land dead stick. I overshot the strip and took out my landing gear but repairs will not be too difficult. The said countersunk bolts may look like they are high tensile but they are not as I drilled the remains of one quite easily, also the allen key socket is very small in them so making it difficult to give them a little more tightness and they could be longer as the holes in the rear of the crankcase are considerably deeper than the supplied bolts I don't think I can go to bigger diameter bolts but will definitely be using high tensile bolts longer in length and not of the countersunk variety P.S. enjoying your build thread Edited By Ultymate on 21/11/2017 08:47:18
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The 'share your photos' thread (not model flying)
Ultymate replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in Photography
Conway Castle and lemur family -
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The 'share your photos' thread (not model flying)
Ultymate replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in Photography
"Just Passing By" -
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I wish you luck with the CF undercarriage I've had poor results over the years they always seem to de-laminate at the corners no matter how smooth the landings. I've tried several different manufacturers including ordering one from an outfit called Graphtech in the States (No longer trading, can't imagine why) with poor results. I prefer glass ones myself they tend to flex more and hence soften any bumps. The only carbon one I have at the moment is on my CARF Edge which is crazy strong and more likely to break the fuselage if given any rough treatment. It will be interesting to see how you get on if you do go the carbon route
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Posted by Djay on 25/10/2017 18:11:13: sorry but no one mentioned applying elevator/rudder and ailerons, off cause it will do strange things if you apply them all. I mentioned ailerons only initially, your average rc model will bank on ailerons only, and anyone who can fly an rc plane can and will use rudder for co-ordinated turns, not to do flat turns, which i did not mention. And as this is a balls out aerobatic model then it emulates the full size, where aileron input only rolls it around the longitudal axis with no other effects. Once again I did not mention applying rudder or elevator. I fly all my F3 pattern ships, my turbine jets and sport models with aileron rudder and elevator to co-ordinate turns and not one of them snap rolls. So what the hell was your so called warning about in the first place?? I'm sure someone building a 50cc biplane is experienced enough not to expect it to do turns just on ailerons
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I can see the video now, couldn't originally, that DA sure rips it away on the take off, mind at 70cc I'm not surprised I can remember what mine was like on a 50
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Good news about the maiden, always nice to come home without a long list of issues
