Terry Whiting

The only time I know of  a clunk folding forward and getting stuck is through a abrupt stop,   and that just can't happen when flying.   I have always made sure my clunk is 1/4" from the end of the tank. To see bubbles when on the ground you must have only half a tank of fuel and a hole in the clunk tube where it is connected to the feed pipe. I personally only ever used Slec tanks (square)  

Doug,   When doing as you are about too, I do as John W, I purchase another flow bent, cut it in half an silver solder a piece of stainless flexy, but support the silencer/muffler end  with a bracket.   The halves of the  flow bend enables rotation prior to  slv/soldering. 

Timbo,      Yes IDSWYM. good thinking    

I have been RC modelling since the mid 50's , the only 'High torque servo' I have ever  purchased was for a  scale retract system on a Brian Taylor Mosquito. Under normal use I have never had a standard servo fail.  On a Pull-Pull (close loop) I use standard BB servos.    Save your money.

Eric, There is no need to use epoxy in model building, unless you are an impatient fellow. PVA is stronger than wood, the wood will always  fail first , so save your hard earnt cash. My preferred choice is Evostick waterproof PVA, in the blue container (bottle)  

I couldn't have done it any better Timbo. ,  So much for factory jig built models     

Timbo, Yes  I understood the problem is within the wing, but  I can not see how  you can  make the lower wing look geometrically correct, without making the correction within  the fuselage, in your case  repositioning your aluminium tube within the  fuselage either to lower the high wing or raise the lower. This is what I was suggesting less the aluminium tube.

Timbo, Sorry I have not kept up with your thread. What is the overall length of the wing spar tube?. For assembly do you slide the spar tube through the fuselage, then slide on the wing panels? Reason for asking , if this is the procedure  I would think  the tube in the fuselage is only for a guidance, and requires no actual strength, the supporting strength has to be the fuselage sides. On my Strutter I only made paper guide tubes.   I would make two 3/16" ply strengtheners which are a good slide fit to the tube spar. These would be aventually be glued on the  insde the fuselage sides. Make the existing fuselage tube holes oversize, slide the spar tube in slip on both ply strengtheners for inside  fuselage fixing. Assemble  the top wing checking the geometry with the tail plane, now assemble lower wing, jig to correct geometry, and dry run fit interplane struts, once  satisfied glue into position ply strengtheners        

Hi John,   There is a product called  "JB Weld" an American two mix apoxy. It comes in two different packs,  5 minute  and  24 hour.  Once cured It can be machined,  just as stated on the package. It was produce for exactly that type of repair.         For your repair  use the 24 hour.

The props Jon mentioned are beautiful props, but are for E flight. 

Hi   i12fly,   It was to do with a pilot  flying at dusk when the airfield was closed.

Timbo,   A Puppeteer I used as a water plane, and a D.B. SE5 Scout as a land plane, the interplane struts fittings  were simply by using ball joints. The balls mounted on the wing fixings , the struts ends were remodelled to take the cups.   The ends of struts were refashioned to enable the plastic cup to fit snugly, a short brass thread was screwed in to the cup, the strut ends were then drilled  to take that threaded brass , and all was epoxied in. To cover the epoxy, self hadhesive aluminium tape was added to givn the appearance of metalled ends .   Never did fail   

I can assure modellers it has nothing to do with their activities. I am a member of the S.V.A.S, All  S.V.A.S.  members were sent sent a letter to be vigilent which had a dedicated paragraph of the received threat to the collection. The police believe it is an inside job.   From what I know of a bazaar happening wich accured the Saturday evening of the last model event , I believe the police are right in their assumption.   All will be revealed soon.

Oliver,   With that set up it will have a very  sprightly model, they are one little ding bat of a motor, throttle management will be a must,

Timbo, I have not delved into the high wattage motors, but about to do so as I have just started a build on a very old Puppeteer kit. I had in mind the Wasp C5055 400KV  1200W, using  two  2s 3350 mAh  EON Flight Power batteries in series , then with the aid of a Watts meter using verious props to obtain 600-700W , but keeping an eye on the amps. Is my theory feasible.   Terry 

Andy,  I fitted that motor to  a pals 24oz  model. It was a BRC combo motor & ESC. I cut the shaft down and used a 3mm prop adaptor with a 7x.3.5 Hyper drive prop. I'm sure his battery was a Flight power Evolite 3s 1600ma. Flew on 1/2 throttle.       Great little motors  PS.   If you cut the shaft, make a small hole in the bottom of a plastic bag, pop the shaft through and seal the motor in the bag. You don't want metal particals in the magnets.   

Gemma, Do not spend out on expensive seed, as the local area grasses will eventually take over. 

Dave, I once read an artical in RCM&E by Nigel Hawes, his words were, If you seriously want to take up Electric Flight, you very first purchase should be a Watts Meter. I took he advice, and I can assure you it has saved me money.  , 

Dave,      Personally I do not use anything other than an electric prop on an electric model.  Master make E props, but tests I have done using the exact same size  with APC E  , the APC  E prop has given better static thrust than the    Master E prop......so for me its APC E every time  ,

Taff,      Just try adjusting the trims on your TX  which corresponds with the ticking servo/servos 

Jim,  Excuse me if I'm wrong, but you might be thinking of   'Plan Packs'. These packs take most of the hard work out of the build by offering CNC cut ribs and fuselage formers and a plan, you then purchase the necessary  balsa sheet. Check out      "Tony Nijhuis Designs"  he produces some great plan packs

Why not get a plan book, a blindfold,  and a pin. Open the book at  WW2 scale , place on the blindfold, and pin yourself a model.......you might surprise yourself.   

Hi Tom,                                                                                                                                                                             I decided to use the two Blueies, I cut them off right at the shoulder, repainted them a blue-grey, with gold-yellow bone domes , they still look a little large, but anything is better than the ' no one at home' look. My canopy is now finised, but if I do find some  at 12th scale, it will be no problem removing them via the canopy base. I made  a magnetic catch for the conopy, works just fine. A pal gave me an old 300W motor which he had tent pegged, I prised out one of the magnets.....Waste not want not.

John,  The majority of engines which have been laid up for some time have this problem. This is due to the carb not being scavenged of fuel before laying up. The minute drop of fuel in the spray bar evaporates leaving a miniscule spot of oil, that oil partially solidifies at the tip of the needle valve, hence no start . A correctly tuned, regular run engine should never requires needle fiddling from one flying session to the next, as long as you scanenge the carb. I always drained my fuel tank and restarted the engine, it might run for a minute or so scavenging the fuel pipe and the engine ends with a burst of life before stopping........Job done

The pilots I picked up from my local model shop, Moor Models, Croxley green, Rickmanswoth,Herts, great shop,you name, they have it.  As  for my maiden it looks like being late spring. The clubs flying patch(60mX60m) is in the middle of a field which is used for crops.   Our farmer landlord has deep ploughed the crop area which resembles the Rockies, and I know first hand, the BA Hawk can really glide. I don't fancy the first flight being it's last. I used a Hitec 81MG for the tailplane, to bomp that tailplane putting in the car will create a great deal of reverse torque on the servo, and plastic gears do not like that treatment . Yes Tom, you have a few £'s worth of batteries there, but at least they make good model weights.  Keep at it.  Terry