colin watson Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 i have been trying to find a new soarer for my collection i have been thinking of something epp about 60" just for fun flying i looked at phoenix but stan yeo has stopped manufacture. plenty available in the states or even new zealand. any suggestion for this country? pss models also help please colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enrico Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 YoColin,Soar Ahead Sailplanes(SAS) will have a decent selection for your needs.All made in England. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 hello colin-i had the same problem as you-the really the only model's made from EPP are the alan head ones.....SAS.....as in the post above by enrico...speaking of which-he and i(enrico) got a couple of' LE guppy's' from AMERICA.....see seperate post's/threads on the forum here.........if you can stand the postage and import tax..i would def recommend one to you.... ken anderson........... web site is under ...leading edge gliders... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin watson Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 thanks i will have a look at them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin watson Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 i spoke with alan and ordered a wildthing 60 @ £65 incld postage a bargain i have looked at the guppy from leading edge i managed to source a telink multifun last year in its box that should be similar im trying to get someone to assemble it for me i have dropped the hints out otherwise i will have to. does anyone have an alternative to the american adhesive goop? colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 colin-i dont even know what goop is like(enrico has it on his cornflakes)i would use epoxy...it'll do the job(5 min)one..... ken anderson.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin watson Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 hi ken it is just on every usa epp builder web site they go on about this goop. i wonder if it is one of the banned type adhesives in this country i.e not to used in confined spaces and being able to see aliens while using it. they seem to use it scraped on before covering in solar tex like pva. 5 min epoxy or zacki cyno works for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Goop is nothing like epoxy or Cyano - it remains semi flexible, more like UHU por and so on. Andy Ellison did an article on all things sticky - including goop - HERE Extract " A virtually identical product in every way which is readily available in the UK is Pacer Technologys strangely named Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo. If you really, really absolutely must have nothing but Goop and your build process is halted because you cant get it, then buy that instead"Edited By Timbo - Administrator on 25/02/2010 23:19:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 It looks as though you should make some threads 'sticky' Timbo, such as British EPP and Andy's articles... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David perry 1 Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Goop is a great glue, I used it a while back so it was available over here then. Will epoxy stick to EPP? I'm not sure. Hot glue does though, I use that a fair bit. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin watson Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 thanks for the link timbo very helpfull colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Posted by Matthew Lloyd on 26/02/2010 13:21:09:It looks as though you should make some threads 'sticky' Timbo, such as British EPP and Andy's articles... Unfortunately they are not "threads" but mini articles, best I can do is create new thread, insert the links, and make that thread sticky. Some things on this platform are still a bit unweildy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Satinet Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 epoxy does stick to EPP. Goop - www.palmersmetals.co.uk (ring as not on their website, although e6000 would also be fine.) superglue would probably work. I would say ultimate adhesive and strength is had from gorilla glue (or other PU type glue). easy to get off ebay. I like PU glue as it expands in to the holes in EPP. It would probably work very well in the spar hole of an SAS model. I think I gooped mine in though. Edited By Tom Satinet on 26/02/2010 16:41:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin watson Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 thanks for everyones help a big thank you also to alan head soar ahead sailplanes for quick and promt service my wildthing arrived next day i started it last night about 9pm i used everything supplied apart from the plastic clevises which i replaced with metal ones i had it finished by midnight now i need some time off work to test fly it. colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Matthews Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Colin, just a warning to you. Flying a Wildthing can induce a huge grin which takes quite a while to wear off. Practice loosing the grin before flying with other Wildthings because it can then become almost impossible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Hi Colin, well done and many happy flights !Incidentally, the supplied palstic clevis' are fine - my WT has been very badly abused over 3 yeras now, and the original plastic ones are still fine - trust Alan Head...... he really knows his stuff when it comes to these things and would simply not supply any parts or materials that were not up to the job. Many people actually prefer plastic ones over metal on any model as plastic flexes, and metal simply cracks and breaks under heavy use.Retain with a short length of fuel tubing for added security, and glance at them after any hard landing ! Always remember to wiggle the sticks just before you throw it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 + 1 on that one - plastic is perfect here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Satinet Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 the problem I had on my fusion was that the plastic clevis is very hard to adjust. you have to take a bit of a flier with the amount of reflex needed and once you have the model trimmed out it's quite hard to turn the plastic clevis to adjust the length of the pushrod, as they are pretty tight on the thread. you can't access the other end of the pushrod to hold it obviously. tbh i think a standard size servo can take a few knocks. the elevons are pretty flexible anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slopetrashuk Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 Posted by Timbo - Administrator on 28/02/2010 11:18:04: Many people actually prefer plastic ones over metal on any model as plastic flexes, and metal simply cracks and breaks under heavy use. I have NEVER seen that happen in forty years of modelling across all disciplines. Linkage scence (especially so with combat EPP gliders) is all about identifying at which bit in the chain you want your weak link. Given that something will break, a busted linkage is preferable to a busted servo arm. A busted servo arm is preferable to a busted servo gear. A broken clevice over a servo arm, servo gear or even control horn. Think about what is the easiest to fix on the side of the slope and what will cost you the least money to put right. Then think about what is most likely to cost you the embarassment of pulling off a blinding kill over Timbo and his aging Wildthing only to find that your plastic clevice popped off in the impact! Don't diss the metal.....I use them (almost) across the board. Perhaps I should change them all on the jets and DS models eh Timbo? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 I didnt actually say that metal clevis' break - although I have had it happen to me on some cheap and nasty ARTF supplied ones - I was just trying to say that as a material, plastic is more forgiving than metal in that it bends and flexes more readily. Of course that all depends on the quality of materials, so I should have qualified that I guess As for the Wildthing - as supplied by AH - fit and use the plastic ones I reckon. Please go ahead and change them on your fast expensive models Andy..... then I can rummage amongst the remains Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin watson Posted March 1, 2010 Author Share Posted March 1, 2010 i only fit metal clevises i have fitted 6kg digi sevos so plenty of power in reserve photos of my wildthing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Colin! What have you done! You've gone and installed the servos the wrong way 'round! They should be INBOARD with the arms inside the fuz - well out of harm's way. Like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Posted by colin watson on 01/03/2010 19:58:09:i only fit metal clevises i have fitted 6kg digi sevos so plenty of power in reserve photos of my wildthing Well thats your choice - but no logical reason to do so - as I said, AH supplies nylon ones for a reason I have never had one fail in 3 hard slope years on my Wt.Mind you, fitting the servos in completely the wrong place has placed the horns and clevis' externally, and as Matthew has already said - they are completely wrong. I strongy advise you to rip it part and do it as per plan, otherwise it will not last long on the average slopside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peewhit Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Well spotted Matthew. Colin, You could fly your WT as it is and it will fly at least once. Those horns and pushrods will be very prone to damage on landing and as Timbo says, your best option would be to carefully take it apart and put it right. Hope you kept that spare bit of foam that came in the box.You might need it to plug up part of the servo holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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