Jump to content

LIDL Scrol Saw


Phil 9
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have one very similar to that, also from Lidl a few years back.....this is probably just the latest version.
Excellent bit of kit, still going strong, and probably one of, if not the most useful tool in the garage. Once you have used it, you will wonder how you managed without.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great.....I've just bought one off Ebay for £26.....its a Titan machine, Screwfix sell 'em for about £60 so it seemed OK.....
 
I got fed up cutting the formers & doublers for my last project with a fret saw...
 
Seem to be lots on ebay so, provided you live near enough to collect, you might pick up a bargain!!!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got one of these and they are good but only as good as there spares list l would buy a box load of blades now as they might not be around for long as I found out from screwfix these mechines are updated as soon as you've bought it can you get course /fine blades for this one happy cutting .......... Mark
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't take it to heart Erfolg....read what one happy customer wrote about his scroll saw......
 
"This device takes up about 15"X9" of bench space and.... well, that's about it. The blades tend to twist as you turn the workpiece which renders it pretty much useless as a scroll saw as the blade will wander. The same blade in my Hegner scroll saw followed the line exactly and stayed in place. My advice is, if you want to waste bench space, keep a couple of breeze blocks on your bench. It's cheaper.
I gave it a 3 star rating for reliability because you can rely on it to go when you switch it on, stop when you switch it off and you can certainly rely on it to ruin a perfectly good piece of wood.
"
 
You know the old saying a bad workman blames his tools??? Well, as a terrible workman, I find I need as many tools around me as possible to absorb all the blame.....
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just as a general pointer what sort of blades do you all use generally....there seem to be lots about & it seems to me that a "wider" blade will follow a straight line more accurately where as a "thinner" blade will follow intricate patterns & curves much better.
 
Also how many teeth? There seem to be several options from 10 to 32 tpi (teeth per inch)......which do you all find works best on, say, lite-ply, birch ply & thick balsa??
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted by Steve Hargreaves on 29/03/2010 16:26:09:
A coping saw is kind of half way between a fret saw & a hacksaw if I remember my 'O' Level woodwork....are the blades more like a junior hacksaw blade than a fretsaw blade??
 
I guess the only real liitation on the type of balde you could use, is the length - and fixing sytem. My cheapy Lidl unit has a clever quick release system, and the blades have a simpe pin through the blade at each end, which can fitted into the machine for either "straight ahead" cutting, or at 90, or 180 degrees to that line. Very simple and equally handy. As with any sawing action, the answer is not to force the piece through, but rather let the teeth do the work, this enables either straight cuts ( for which a fence is also supplied if needed ) or the more useful intricate curves.
I change the blades often purely to assist in the efficiency, especially as i abuse the thing by cutting aluminium, and very thick wood too!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...