10C programming

[andy watson]

I'm at an awkward part of the stuka build, where a lot of the radio gear is being put in, so I am trying to set up the radio as I go, and also I am checking everything fits/works as expected.  However there are a lot of complicated toys on the plane, and I have only ever flown a plane requiring basic 4 channel set up- end points, throttle cut etc.  The manual is pretty comprehensive, but I am struggling on a couple of points.

 

1) The plane has a siren and landing light.  These are currently set (via a switching unit) on channel 10 and the 3 position switch C.  UP=siren, down=light.  That works properly.  The plane also has dive brakes, which I have set to slider D.  These also work properly (well sort of- but that is a build problem atm!), albeit with a lot of end point adjustment- which seems fine. 

 

Although the divebrakes seem fine, it seems silly to have to use a proportional slide control to operate them, since they are basically up/down.  Can a normal servo  (I don't want to buy retract servos) be controlled via a switch to be at either end of it's travel.  I kind of like that idea for flaps too- 3 positions- flat, 20 degrees and 90 degrees.

 

2) The plane has very narrow wingtips, and is reputed to be a bit of a biter with tip stalling.  I have buit washout into the wings to couteract this, but have the idea of setting the ailerons up to also be able to both move up/down together (crow braking?).  The plan isn't to use them as a brake, but to give me the option of adjusting them to increase the washout if needed but to then continue flying normally.

 

Are these things possible?

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

Hi Andy...not sure about 2 but you can certainly use a 3 position switch to control the flaps.....thats exactly what I have done with one of my models....flat, about 20 degrees of flap for downwind & full flap (about 75-80 degrees) for finals..I also mixed in a bit of "down" elevator to compensate & it works really well.....FYI I have each flap driven by a servo & these connected to the Rx via a Y lead.....

 

The 10C is a great piece of kit...very easy to program when you understand what the software guy intended!!! Also there is now a book available from (whisper it!!!) Traplet Publications.....here

[andy watson]

Cheers Steve.

 

Would I do that by messing around with the expo, sub trim and end points to get the positions right?

 

The plan for the dive brakes (if I can get it to work) is to set it on the same control as the siren, as the 2 will only operate together.

 

I have barely scratched the surface of the 10C, but it seems a rock solid piece of kit.

[andy watson]

Just discovered (by accident) a full new menu of all kinds of advanced (thats what the menu is called) features for V tails, elevons etc etc etc. 

 

I guess thats the area I need.

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

Yeah...it took me a while to find that one too Andy......!!!

 

But no you shouldn't need that menu.......all I did was use a three position switch ("A" I think it is) & set this as channel 6 or something (I use two servos & a "Y" lead).....then with the switch in the centre position mechanically set the flaps to a kind of mid way (20 degrees or so) using the position of the servo arm, length of pushrod etc & then adjust the end point with the switch in position 1 so the flaps go fully home without stalling the servos & set the end point with the switch in position 3 so I got the maximum flap I wanted......about 90 degrees in my case so the act as airbrakes. you can then mix channel 6 into channel 2 to provide a bit of down elevator when the flaps are deployed to stop the nose pitching up. Its kind of a mix between mechanical & electronic set up to get the desired results

 

Hopefully that will help put you on the right track.....if not I will gladly go into more detail if you like......!!!

 

Might also be worth fitting one of those servo slow devices so the flaps come down nicely.....mine come down a bit quick but it doesn't matter on this model....they are only playthings really (although surprisingly effective.......it just comes down like an elevator & practically lands itself!!!) 

[Andy Gates]

Andy

 

If you want to set the ailerons slightly elevated (additional washout), I would do that manually by adjusting the pushrod length on the ground a little bit at a time then testing with a stall test at a suitable height.

[andy watson]

Steve, I understand exactly what you mean- many thanks.

 

Andy, Thats probably a better idea- I was hoping to make it adjustable in flight for the maiden/initial flights then if necessary make a permanant adjustment as you suggest.

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

You'll need to play with it a bit but to get you started, go to the advanced menu, try enabling flaperon (second aileron will be channel 6), set up a programmable mix aile - aile +15 -15 offset 80% on a switch of your choice, enable another on the same switch of aile - flap rate + 15 - 15 offset 80%

 

You can use the servo display on the standard menu to check the effects on a spare memory first if you like.

 

The pluses and minuses may need playing with depending on your mechanical setup as may the rates but if you can set this up it will give something along the lines you want.

 

You'll probably need your manual (and/or a knowledgeable clubmate) and some lateral thinking but it should be possible!  If nothing else it will get you started in discovering some of the potential of your 10C...working out how to set the above will be the first step!

Edited By Martin Harris on 12/04/2010 00:42:56

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

A picture is supposed to be worth 1000 words so here's 5050ish...don't forget you'll need to set flaperon first...

 

Mixes 1 and 2 are the ones set in this case but any can be chosen

 

Mix 1 details

 

Mix 2 details

 

Switch B "off" - channels 1 and 6 at neutral...

 

Switch B "on" - note the small offset movement on channels 1 and 6 

Edited By Martin Harris on 12/04/2010 08:41:47

[andy watson]

Thanks for taking the time to do that Martin.  It gives me a place to start and I can have a go from there.  It's not a problem if I spend a few hours messing with the radio to get it right.

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

You'll probably have some head scratching to do but it is worth the time to familiarise yourself with the advanced programming and this is as good a place to start as any! 

 

Remember that some settings are done with the stick position rather than the dial (e.g. the offsets) and twiddle away (copying your basic settings onto a spare memory is best) until you get it doing what you want it to!  It's all in the manual but it's a bit of a catch 22 situation where you need to have an idea of what you want it to do before it starts to make sense.

 

The above took me half an hour to work out and fine tune but once you have your head round the concept it gets easier!

 

While I think of it, it's best to disable any rotary dial or slider relating to the slave channel (in the AUX menu IIRC)  or you may get some odd effects if you nudge that control!

[tom clarke]

hi lads, anyone know how to set an opto kill switch on the futaba 10c, using a 6014 rx?? works perfectly on my 7ch transmitter and rx but refuses to function on any channel of the 10c and 6014 rx

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

Odd...I would have thought simply allocating a channel to a switch & operating it from +100 to -100 would do the job......you've not got it set as a Logic switch or something have you? It must be something the 10C has that the 7C hasn't......

[Ultymate]

Tom I have answered this question on the other thread, you basically need a signal booster as the 14 channel Futaba system uses a low signal voltage, check the other thread I've posted a link to a supplier.