Andy Gates

I see nothing in the manual to suggest that it can be set to work for planes - only helicopters. The mixing for the rotor head appears in built.

Recalibration of the throttle? Unplug battery, put throttle at fully open position, reconnect. After the tunes at start up, drop the throttle to closed and you should get a beep or 2. Test

Hi Robert, Word of warning from our experience this weekend. When using the controls, do NOT keep them held in as you would on a drone. So to bank right - add right aileron (move stick to the right) then centre the controls. If you hold the right in as you would with a Multi Rotor craft, the plane will carry on rolling to inverted then out again. If you are on a buddy box your trainer will take control back at about 45 degrees of bank. Much mirth was had with this.

The UC is not suitable for learners - very close coupled and prone to tipping over especially in a cross wind. For a raw learner - probably a little fast, but as an intermediate trainer I would say yes. Stall is very gentle however pitch it up too much and you can provoke a tip stall. It will loop and spin quite nicely, wing overs are OK but it is short on rudder authority for stall turns. Currently running 4S 2700mAH for nose weight, motor is an Airtek Airmax 3548 1100kV - similar to the Thumper / Surpass motors with a 12 x 6 APC E prop. Very over powered, only needs 50% throttle for lift off. 17g servos fitted with 2 in the wing for ailerons. Steerable nose wheel added too with servo mounted on bulkhead. Sorry to interupt the ME 109 thread

I have just finished a Cambrian Cessna Skyline which was donated by a club member as a club trainer. Built in very much the same way and electrified. I did worry about it being heavy using the wood provided but it came out OK. Good luck with yours.

Hi Sonar and welcome the hobby / sport. We have a gent who is much the same position as you starting at our club - hopefully having his first fixed wing flight this weekend. You are not alone so post on your progress.

The club I am a secretary for recently went through a change of treasurer and secretary in one hit. It was a nightmare to sort. It is a multi signatory "Community" account run by Barclays, no fee at the moment but getting identifications verified by the bank was difficult, as they have limited times of opening and at weekends they have no counter service with the stamp pads required being available.

I am sure that it will be directional too so needs to be placed with the correct end forwards. Visit Spektrum website and get the instruction manual for your particular receiver model. It should tell you in there

Billy, General rule of thumb is to power your plane at 100w/lb. Using the max weight as 5lbs, you require 500w. The Power 32 is aimed at 800w so a bit overkill, especially for a trainer. While the Bomerang 25e is a trainer, it is quite quick across the sky so a beginner will struggle to keep up. I know this as I train a flyer with one of these machines. Can I suggest you find a local club to get you started so you do not end up with a bag of bits and disillusioned? Most have people like myself on site who will train you using a buddy system to hopefully prevent crashes and to help you along.

I just signed up, took less that 30 seconds. I seem to recall as club secretary registering our flying site with the BMFA in the recent past. Maybe this is why?

I usually work differently from the method being used by the OP. Reason being - the build does not need to be so heavy as electric does not produce the vibrations of IC. My builds of converted machines usually weigh in at around 2/3 of the original. Block balsa being replaced with curved thin sheet over formers, thicknesses being reduced throughout, birch ply (1/8" normally) in stressed areas only - firewall & UC. I then use the rule of thumb 100w/lb to work out power requirements. They fly really nicely after a diet as above. Example - i train people using a Ripmax WOT trainer - approx 6lbs is the spec. Rebuilt the fuselage to drop weigh, binned all the heavy covering. Now flies at 4lbs, it will not stall or spin, flies backwards in a breeze and generally flies gently until you open the throttle up.

I agree with the non castoring tailwheel, mine are either on separate servo or linked to the rudder with reduced throw. I fly twins that are electric and all of mine have the props running in the same rotation. Treat it like the warbird that it is and all will be fine. So none of the tick over straight to wide open, progressive throttle with speeding up and keep it true with rudder and will will be well. Mixing rudder to throttle makes for interesting flying but also makes it unreal, slightly strange unsettled movements in the air. Having said that it does make for impressive stall turns / wing overs. I had mine switchable and flew with it switched off most of the time, very useful on water though just in case the water rudder is not effective enough.

I picked up a Volantex Spitfire and the book of words with it was pretty clear - having said that I do fly with a OpenTx transmitter so maybe I am more used to the "Chinglish" manual. The Tx supplied is pretty poor to be honest, with large dead spots around the centre and at the ends of the stick movements, which with the Spitfire make it a challenge to fly. Programming to my Tx16S was a revelation, although the Spitfire with no washout on the wings does bite with tip stalls if you are not careful.

I had an early laser cut kit from Peter which I did a review style write up for. I think the ads used to use one of my pictures too. Biggest help I can give you is to remind you to keep the back end light, and I fitted the lipo above the motor mounting in the cowl. Here is my webpage for that machine. I still have it and it is due for repair after a receiver failure.