Andy Gates

For me, switch all the safety features / gimmicks off and make the driver concentrate in the first place. You should not really be messing with your sat nav / phone / ICE while the car is moving anyway. If it is wrong, pull off the road to sort it out. Watch your sat navs when you go past motorway junctions, a lot of the time they can't work out what speed limit they should be working on so the screen blanks. What is the car going to do with this new limiter system then - stop? Whose fault will any accident which occurs after such an event be? ABS brakes I can understand having - definitely a safety feature. Lane assist - why are you not looking where you are going? Speed control systems - look at your speed readings on the screen in front of you. I was taught to glimps at your speed not to be hooked on it. I drive a fair few miles, quite a bit in London and the standard of driving is awful, I spend most of my time avoiding other idiots.

As ever with things like this, photos speak volumes. There must be access at either end of the control runs / clevises so take pictures of those areas and post them here.

Chris, Start at the servo and work your way down the system. Servo - is the horn tight, does it slip on the spindle? Gently hold the horn and move the Tx stick to see if it slips under load. Next check the clevis which connects to the servo horn, is the pin still there? Is the clevis fixed onto the push rod / snake inner? Does the pushrod move at the tail? Is the clevis here connected to the pushrod? Is the pin still in the clevis? Is the control surface horn connected to the surface firmly? Hopefully this will help you find the fault.

My pleasure David, it is what this forum is all about.

Go for McGregor film out of those choices, it is much the same as the HK film. I find Easycoat delaminates too easily with the glue / colour sticking to the frame and the plastic peeling off leaving a really horrible effect.

Wrong technique? At the bottom of the text box where you type is a "Drag files here..." message. Click on choose files, go to the picture you want on your system and it should appear underneath the text box. Just complete message in the normal way. Do observe the maximum size though - 48MB

I would estimate around 10-15mph but the parameters are way to vague. I teach with a very much lightened electrified "Ripmax Trainer" (Chris Foss UnoWot). I would say that gets down to around 6 or 7 mph in ground effect.

Don't normally do this but I was incredibly lucky to be gifted this glider as a kit. It is an Andreas sold by Hyperflight.co.uk. Still trying to get it tuned in but it is getting better each time.

Not a numpty question at all. At least you found the issue on the floor and not in the air! As you have correctly worked out, stick backwards - elevator upwards. Double check everything after the change to make sure you have knocked something else in the process.

Tried Chris Foss directly at chrisfoss.co.uk ?

I purchased a Flair Puppeteer from one of our club members. The rear servos were stuck to fuselage side doublers around the spar position on the lower wing. The tail movements I was not happy with so I switched out the 2 servos fitted and moved the replacements to the trailing edge position. Removed both wooden pushrods and replaced the rudder with pull pull cables. The elevator was treated to a CF pushrod. Result was the removal of 100g of nose weight.

Don't modify the nose, not necessary. Don't use the leading edge as your datum, use the CoG. 100g (4oz approx) is not that much on what is a short nosed model. Making some estimates here... If CoG is on the spar, the tail looks to be twice as far from the spar as the motor. So 100g on the nose is approximately balanced out by 50g at the tail. What servos are you fitting? Standard ones are 35g ish, so moving one to the back of the plane will almost counter balance the additional motor nose weight. Try it with your current model. Suspend it somehow on the CoG, add 100g to the nose and then try moving some spare servos and stuff around to get back to level. Maybe both tail servos to a location near to the rear edge of the wing and moving your throttle servo back might sort it, consider altering the position of the receiver battery.

Same place, same issue here Cuban. Had to stop doing oil change on the car so I did not get wet!

Little concerned with your last post Toto. As PDB asked, should the lights not connect into the receiver? Also you seem to be having doubles. AS3X and a gyro is going to be very interesting as they will BOTH be trying to correct the models flying. One or other - not both. If you have one - use a non SAFE receiver with the supplied gyro. Reason for the connection issues TAER is that the instructions are written for non Spektrum transmitters which would most probably use AETR.

Could just be a dirty connection in the Y lead so removing and replugging the servo back in effectively wipes the contact surfaces.