Dusty Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Well after the success of the Mirage I plunged again and decided to do another fast foam model, so here is the Hawk! Decided to leave the Mig for a winter build! Basically a FlyFly Hawk but with some tweaks and mods it will fly faster, be stronger than the off the shelf ARTF FlyFly Hawk. Hopefully last longer than Timbos ! Nice well packed box Everything is perfect! Electric retracts this time round! The beast! Ok this is a HYK 1600Kv motor rebuilt for me by Jepe using his parts so now it has new bearings etc and will take 7~8s. I will fly on 7s to begin with! Instead of Epoxy for fibreglassing I will use the water based and less smelling Pu finnish and a grey primer. Retracts unveiled from the box! And a tonne of foam and other bits to make a fast foam Hawk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Hope it doesn't end in tears! I'll be one of many 'lurkers' watching over your shoulder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solid Snake Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Good luck with the building and flying. I shall also be silently watching the progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 Hi Tony thanks! I sure it will be just fine and as successful as my Mirage! The Mirage is still tearing holes in the sky! Might be abit slow as some other parts I am waiting for are stuck over seas! Wonder why? Volcanoes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 I made a tentative start on my replacement, but its come to a halt again for various reasons. I am especially interested in the following so please include lots of details mate....1) Position of ESC2) Wire exit system from motor to ESC through fan shroud - I modded mine a lot.3) Those yummy looking retracts - what do they weigh in total?4) JePes suggested method of mounting them - especially the nose unit.5) Painting Are you brushing or spraying, and will you glass with the PU or tissue -what scheme you going for, I still fancy the black this time around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 Evening Tim and glad you in the party! Bit more thinking needed on this model! I will try and include as much detail as I can, bearing in mind I am trying to keep the weight down as much as I can as not to stress the gears on the retracts to much on landing! I know they work successfully if the weight is minimal and landings are decent! Arrivals are not welcome! As dicussed with JP today over the phone on some questions you asked.. 1) Inbetween the ducting 2) Tim Jepe uses the Epoxy stick and shrink tube to profile the motor wires. This is a original Jepe fan on the Mirage. I plan to put the motor wires on the Hawk to the top of the fuz and close up the hole where the original position is from FlyFly. 3) Retracts seem sweet 161g for the mountings and the conrtol box. 4) Up to the builder! Help welcome! he has not fitted the electric retracts to the Hawk yet only the F-4 5) Yes spray paint with Acriylic in a camo scheme ontop of a grey primer to keep weight down.. Dark Matt colours on the matt primer will require less coats. Here is what I have my heart set on! I will use the 25g cloth and PU Tim! makes a faster build and less toxins to breathe in ! I reckon it will be lighter than expoxy resin too, oh 10x easier to sand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 Started on the wing, no maths here! Here I have cut the retract mounting area for a trial fit! Now the decisions start to have a secure mounting but keeping it super simple and super light! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 Tim hopefully these pics can give you some idea of how much bigger the lecky retracts are compared to the mmmmm flythrowaway ones! Oleos. The Electric retracts have a nice beefy 5mm shaft, thinking of drilling the standard oleos and give them a go. Got the pilot prepped this time round! Oh and a LED system just incase! Edited By Dusty on 21/04/2010 20:39:55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Hi Dusty thanks for the blog so far Exactly where in the ducting will you fit the ESC ? Before I comment further on the other points, can i ask did you see the work I did ( blogged here a while back ) on mine? If not I will happily repost it here if you like - or link back to it. The reason i ask is that if you havent seen it, there may be some useful stuff in there for you on mounting the gear and wing strenghtening...you are going to insert a carbon spar / tow on the wing yes?In my JePe set, he includes a length of tow, and suggests epoxying it to the main foam "spar". On eproblem with the crummy flyfly oleos is the very small clearance between the tyre and the bottom of the inner strut - nicely illustarted in your picture! I modded mine by extending the trailing forks - the supplied wheel is too small for ROGrass, so I wnated to use the same size nosewheel as the mains...and it just wouldnt fit in the forks.On my new one, I am thinking of using a main gear oleo for the nose - as I have a spare one.....from you I thinkI like the substantial look of those other oleos......did they come with the retracts? Heavy though I imagine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 Hi Tim, Yes feel free to post your previous photos etc, I am sure they will be helpful! I did read your work and will re read it now. Here I have used the stronger oleos from the retract kit so 211g fitted inc wheels. The FlyFly wheels fit the main gear axles perfectly. As for the nose wheel I drill the axle out to 3mm and used a bolt to secure the nose wheel. I will probably put a larger wheel on too. As for the ESC I will probably mount inbetween the balsa fairings. Will have a look when I get to that stage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 Followed some of your ideas Tim! Main U/C fitted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Cool! The one to really watch is the noseleg. The original "design" is nothing more than a couple of small foam ledges onto which a couple of rubbish ply pieces are glued, and the retrcta unit screwed to those. Completely and utterly hopeless. I did alot of work to get a really good substantial mount, with slits cut into the fus sides, as well as extra material below the original ledges. The depth of fitting is also important to ensure that when retracted the wheel actually fits into the aperture, I mounted mine at an angle also, to help this problem. I fitted the steering servo in front of the unit, and used nylon covered wire trace lines to form a closed loop which folds loose when retracted - I did spend a lot of frustrating time on this part of the build. On my replacement I intend to shorten all three legs considerably from original, to aid ground handling, lessen leverage forces, and improve appearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 Ok started on the nose wheel! I cut slits into the foam on this line. The front former is plyed now as this is where the force will placed (No pic will show you once everything is completly dry) Fully retracted! Really needs some gear doors! Top view of the nose wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 Here is some of the manual! Wont need the steering type of rigging you used on your Hawk Tim, just a simple servo and pushrod P.s Tim please can you do me a HUGE favour? I am missing these 2 pieces from the kit, could you trace/scan one of the balsa pieces and send the trace via email to me please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Yeh sure no problem...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 Nose wheel installation disected! Servo is for nose wheel steering. keeping light but strong! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 These are the only ones in mine....is this what you mean - seems he has lightened them from the original? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Halton Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Very cool! So this is what you are up to Dusty? Am watching from now,it looks very good,and I will use your thread details one day, to help me 'convert 'to the Jepe Job. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 23, 2010 Author Share Posted April 23, 2010 Hi Tim, Yes please the Triangular ducting bits on the right of the photo! I will make shift with some 6mm depron! Hi Matt, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 OK mate, will scan and send them on to you now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Incidentally, I have to wonder whatexactly this balsa ducting achieves. On my original, I simply removed all the moulding spots etc, and spackled then sanded smooth. What does this balsa sheeting achieve - that this didnt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 I have sent you the following picture as a jpeg attachment on an email.It is actual size as printed out on A4 paper, so all you need do is trace around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 23, 2010 Author Share Posted April 23, 2010 Hi Tim thanks mate! The balsa ducting will make the intake air less turbulant towards the fan unlike having a massive gap with the air "wondering where to go"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 23, 2010 Author Share Posted April 23, 2010 Here are the mains working. All the wiring in the wing comes under the retract and then follows the pre moulded indents for the phneumatic system in the wheel wells. Trailing edge balsa drying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn sharp Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Dusty did the retracts come with the kit if not where did you get them they would be nice in my lear jet Thanks Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.