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can you remember solafilm solvent


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Hi All,
I need to "stick" solafilm to itself as in trim, I used to have a solvent for solafilm but it looks like it is not around now.
what can I use instead?
 Balsa lock will not do it for me nor the iron
so is there a solvent that will soften the glue?
Regards
Peter
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Hi IanN,
No I don't think so it still needs ironing on.
the solvent was in a small bottle 15ml or so wipe a very thin film on the base, let it dry slightly then rub down the trim. The solvent desolved the glue and it sticks like the brown stuff to a blanket.
To much solvent and the colour from the solafilm would run.
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I thought ordinary cellulose thinners worked to stick Solarfilm down.
But Prymol is the thing to get the overlaps sticking down well.  Let it dry for a few minutes and iron down. Works to stick down the bits that have lifted on old models too
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Hi Kc,
what I am looking for is a solvent that will stick solafilm to its self without useing heat as in trim. I use to have a small bottle of solvent that you wiped on to the surface of the base colour let it dry for a short time then place the trim over the base colour smooth it down and that was it stuck with no heat, so I would put trim on open areas no heat means no shrinkage.
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Hi Chris,
Yes thats it, but it was around at the same time as the trim. The solvent was not user freindly as more that just a smear of solvent and the adhesive/colour would run. There was only a handfull of modelers in our club could get on with it.
I have emailed Solafilm but as yet no reply, maybe there is no one in the company old enough to remember it! lol
Acording to the Solafilm web site you can just peel the film and stick it onto the base covering ... smooth flat, but I have tried it and I am not convinced that it will be there after the first flight.
Solartrim sheet size is to small and to darnd expencive for the kind of decor that I have in mind. I only use it for very small trim bits or as a patch to cover a ding.
I have tried the above solvents as well as White spirit and Meths but no go yet.
someone must know what to use.
 
Peter
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I am sure I used acetone ( cellulose thinner ) on Solarfilm back in around 1985,  perhaps the new stuff is different.
Actually I cannot see why you dont want to use heat.  All the trim for sunbursts etc  I did in 1986 etc   was done with gentle heat and its still sticking OK even though the models are too old & fuel soaked to use!   I just followed Mr Hardmans instructions at his demos at Sandown.  That is, not too much heat just gradually increase the temperature and hold down with a cold cloth after heating.  Some were also coated with Clearcoat for protection against oil penetration which works well.
 
Otherwise why not paint the pattern on using Prymol as a primer?

Edited By kc on 18/06/2010 20:00:50

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Somewhere I still have some of the solvent in its little bottle - used to put a smear on with a piece of soft tissue just wetted with it.  I think I also followed up with gentle heat to make sure trim was stuck down.  too much heat distorts the trim.
 
I've not tried this -yet - but I use white spirits  -turps substitute  - to clean the colour / adhesive off my covering iron.  so if the spirits clean the iron, then a smear might be enough to stick solarfilm trim to solarfilm ??
 
If you try this - please let us know if it works
 
john
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Hi John L,
That little bottle must be worth its weight in gold (solafilm), I have tried White spirit and meths and cel thinners white spirit did not work nor meths there was a limited sucsess with cel thinners but the film tended to wrinkle.
 
 
More ideas please there must be somthing out there the somone is useing please share your knowlage with us all waiting to stick film on film.
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Cpt Biggles
A while back whilst converting an old ic plane to lekky I had covered traditionally with tissue -dope & fuel proofer ( a Trixie actually) I decided to recover certain parts of  the fuselage ,which had a lot of patches etc on it, with solarfilm . Only 'cos I had some of nearly the right colour .I can confirm that if you "fuel-proof" solarfilm (I did gently rub down a bit with 800 grade wet & dry first) Then solarfilm can be stuck to solarfilm I discovered later on another model .This was done on an open structure on the Trixie & can't guarantee that it would work on large compound curved sheeted surfaces to get a nice smooth wrinkle free finish as I only ironed it on at low heat ,just to stick so to speak & only very slightly shrank it .
In other words ,rub down the shine off Solarfilm , fuelproof it (Tufkote 2-part I use) & go for it .
Hope this helps y'all. Maybe it works with ordinary varnish but I havn't tried . 
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Hi Chris,
I have two irons from the 80's one is coloured with solafilm residue one is not are you shure that the colour is glue from the solafilm and not just dye that has got its self into the non-stick coating, cos that will not come off short of taking the non-stick coat off. (do not ask how I know). do you or others use a "sock" for your irons and are they good?
 
Hi Miron,
I must admitI have not tryed to use the iron on cool to stick the film on film I still have a bee in my bonnet obout the solvent I WANT SOME NOW some one must know what it was.
 
Still no reply from Solafilm re: solvent.
Regards
Peter 
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Hi all
Just found this on another foum
 
It just may work
 
Peter
 
Re: Howto stick down Profilm without using heat ?

Here's a hint I sent to our club news letter a while ago. I believe the
same type of coloured adhesive is used on Profilm/Oracover as on Solarfilm.

"Until I discovered this trick, I never had much success with sticking
Solarfilm trim onto Solarfilm base. I always end up trying to get the
bubbles out by pricking them with the point of a scalpel blade and ironing
them out - quite a laborious process. I have used Solartrim with mixed
results - it tends to peel at the corners after a while, and you can never
find the right colour, can you?


Here is the `solution'. Pour a single measure of methylated spirits, and add
a dash of cellulose thinners. Avoid any temptation to drink it at this
stage. The proportions do not need to be precise, but I would guess about
10% thinners. After cutting out the Solarfilm trim, mark the position on the
surface to which it is to be applied with a permanent marker pen - just
dots, as the ink can stain the trim. Apply the solution to the sticky side
of the trim with a soft brush. You can then position the trim accurately on
the surface - it will slide around - before squeegeeing out the surplus
liquid with the edge of a piece of balsa or a beer mat. Smooth out the trim
and mop up the drips with a tissue, and leave to dry. NO NEED TO IRON! You
will also find that the `permanent' pen marks have been wiped away.


The theory is that the meths wets the surface of the film, and the thinners
partially dissolves the adhesive. I tried using neat thinners at first, but
that just washes off all the colour and leaves a sticky mess. The big
advantage is that no heat is needed, so no bubbles. The method works well on
sheeted and foam wings, and on adhesive tape on Zagis, etc. I have not yet
tried it on open structures, and it certainly would not be any use for
double curvature surfaces.


Getting the Backing Off


Ever had a piece of Solarfilm from the middle of the sheet, so you can't
peel the backing off? Picking at the edge with a scalpel blade works
eventually, but you run the risk of poking it right through the film. Just
stick a bit of masking tape or sellotape to the backing, and stretch it.
Works a treat!"


John Bennett
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I have had a reply from Solafilm as follows
Dear Peter
 
Sorry for the delay in answering your email

 Solarfilm Solvent was discontinued over 20 years ago.  This liquid was di n butyl phthalate.  This product was not cost effective (we had to buy large drums and we did not sell enough of it).

 We only sell Solartrim for trim for this purpose.

 Sorry we can not be of any further assistance.

 Best Regards

Valerie Hardman
So now we know twenty years ago! well time is flying.
 
Now I wonder where I can get di n butyl phthalate?
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