Zulu ET

[Jimbo565]

Darrell.

 

Its a bog standard aluminium U/C from the local model shop.

 

Looking forward to getting her in the air now,she looks right and I reckon she will fly like a dream.

The c/g came out right without having to add any ballast so this w/e should see her in the air

 

Well done Lindsay

 

lets do the bipe next

 

Jim

[Lindsay Todd]

Looks really smart Jim. Twin or Bipe mmh not sure yet, need to get the Grumman Goose out of the way also.

Anyway on with the build

Top sheet now added to both sides, also the top inside 3mm doublers, again soaked with water to allow them to bend easily, glued and fixed with good old pegs till dry. Once this stage has dried the fuselage can be given a general sand to shape.

Back to the plan and the fin can be built over the top of the plan and left to dry.

When dry use the fin and some off-cut to set the position of the tailplane and fin height so that we can add the soft block tail fairing witch is glued to the rear of F6. When dry remove the fin and off-cut and sand to shape.

 

more soon

Lindsay

[Darrell Bullard]

Sorry Lindsay

You lost me on the last bit!

I understand the fin but whats a tail plane and tail fairing and what is the height supposed to be??

 

Darrell

[Jimbo565]

Darrell

The tailplane is the horizontal stabiliser to which the elevator is fixed,if you look at Lindsay's photo you will see two pieces of scrap wood under the fin,this is in place of the tailplane to allow the fin to be set at the correct height.

 

The fin sits on top of the tailplane.

 

Jim

[Jimbo565]

Windscreen fitted and now ready for go.

[Darrell Bullard]

Guy's

Ive been looking at this on and off all day, i think my problem is with the *soft block tail fairing. I dont see anything labeled as that on the plan. Is it the square peice to the left of the tailplane in the plan? Is this what the tail plain sets on?

 

Still stumped!

Sorry

 

[Lindsay Todd]

Darrell, the soft block i refer to is the triangular part from F6 back over the stabiliser, this is made of soft block and supports either side of the fin, the next photo should help. The off cut of 6mm is simply there to maintain the correct gap for the stabiliser and as Jim says help fix the fin in its vertical position but at this stage we do not glue the fin or stabiliser.

 

The soft block is now trimmed and sanded to shape NB got bored waiting for glue to dry and fitted the first control snake, only fixed at the rear at the moment will have further support.

Time to make the stabiliser / tailplane using 6mm balsa cut to sized and built up over the plan. Radius to corners added when dry and sanded to profile. We can now either make the rudder and elevator or as I am leaving those till later, crack on with the wing.

So time to start the wing, first cut the ribs from balsa, and sand smooth. Start by pinning down rear 6mm square then position a couple of ribs over the plan and locate the position of the bottom main spar 6mm square, its ok to be out by say 2mm, but anymore should be adjusted. Pin the lower spar and glue the 9 ribs in place. when dry add the top spars and glue in place.

 

more soon

 

Lindsay

 

[Lindsay Todd]

When dry add the rear 1.5mm top sheet and front 6mm leading edge to front of ribs.

Cut through ribs to position main spar against the rear of 6mm square balsa spars, when happy with fit glue in position.

Using razor plane shape front leading edge to rib profile, lightly sand and then add 1.5mm fronttop sheeting to rear of spar forward and leave to dry. When dry repeat for second panel, ensuring you make a left and right.

 

more soon

Lindsay

 

[Lindsay Todd]

With the 2nd panel builtup to include the trailing edge sheeting the panels can be glued together clamping the main spar and panel centre ribs together.

When dry the 2nd panel forward sheeting can be added.

Followed by the centre sheeting to the top face.

Whilst the wing was drying I added the rudder control snake by drilling through the soft block tail fairing and f6, gluing in place and sanded smooth.

Also time to cut out the rudder from 6mm medium/soft sheet, the plan shows two arrangements for the elevator rudder look, the prototype had the cut out in the rudder as per Zulu and as show in the picture,I have yet to decide whitch way to go on this one yet.

Also took the time to bend up some 10swg piano wire legs and drill the holes in the mounting blocks, they will be fixed after covering.

 

more soon

Lindsay

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Posted by Jim Carss on 30/09/2010 14:23:32:
Windscreen fitted and now ready for go.

 Nice job, looks very pretty.

[Jimbo565]

David,

 

Hope you noticed your little sticker on the fin.

Jim

[David Ashby - Moderator]

I did Jim.

 

Ok, the revised formers pdf is done and they can be downloaded here. 

Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 05/10/2010 12:58:16

[Lindsay Todd]

Complete forward top sheeting from 1.5mm balsa

Then add the sheeting to the centre area and then the cap strips over the ribs between rear of spar and trailing edge sheeting.

Now add some 6mm balsa between the 6mm spars and then glue in place the spar front face plate and clamp till dry.

Turn the wing upside down and repeat the sheeting process to the underside having first removed the riblets at the front and sand to section. It helps to sand the leading edge to an angle before adding the sheeting as this asists with final  shaping of the leading edge later.

 

more soon

Lindsay

 

[Lindsay Todd]

With wing sheeted the trailing edge section is added

Quick check fit, time for a touch of filler, useful at this point to set the wing square, check incidence and add a balsa plate to the rear of the wing to support the wing bolt.

Time to add the wing tips, I have also added some more trailing edge section, about 20mm, I find this helps with those inevitable bouts of hangar rash.

Next job is to drill and fix the wing dowel, this is done by positioning the wing in place and then drill through Former from the front. Then glue dowel into wing. The top wing structure can then be glued into position. Also the front cockpit D box can be started by glueing the front quarter ribs to the front of the former, they should be 3mm lower than the top of the wing, as we will add 3mm sheeting later.

 

more soon

Lindsay

 

[Lindsay Todd]

Add leading edge and sheeting to top and bottom faces

Add canopy frame to the underside of the centre wing

Add forward canopy strut from hard 6mm square balsa. Sand the canopy roof to match the profile of the wing.

I added a ply plate to the underside of the tail to take a comercial tailwheel assembly.

 

more soon

 

Lindsay

[Lindsay Todd]

Undercarriage bent from 10swg piano wire. holes drilled through ply into undercarriage blocks and then saddle clamps fitted to secure.

 

more soon - starting to think about colour scheme now!

 

Lindsay

[Darrell Bullard]

Keep those pictures coming Lindsey Im still with ya. The build is coming along.......well lets just say its coming along! Must say though, this is very enjoyable!

[kc]

Any inaccuracies in formers F4 and F5 will affect the wing incidence. The revised formers from the pdf did not print, on my printer, to the sizes specified by Lindsay some weeks back.  ( obviously this can vary in the printer setup )

Perhaps Lindsay could state the wing and tailplane incidence of the model known to fly properly.

[Lindsay Todd]

KC thanks for that will check and add an advisory notice.

[Lindsay Todd]

Wing bolt mounting plate has been given a ply face drilled and captive nut fixed inside. Check for square prior to drilling. Also the 6mm square can be added and sanded to a taper to complete the blending of rear fuselage to wing.

The tail plane and fin can also now be dry fitted (not glued) and rudder and elevator test fitted.

Add scrap timber and / or filler to complete the cocpit roof and the model is ready for a general sand. Just the ailerons now to complete before the main structure is effectively complete.

 

more soon

 

Lindsay

 

[Jimbo565]

Lindsay,

 

its lookin good.

 

Jim.

[Darrell Bullard]

Did I say enjoyable???  After spending some time ponderinghair pulling and some shouting at my  the placement of the infamous F4 and F5 verison 1 vs. veriosn 2.

 I ended up doing a bit of hack and slash! I belive i have it worked out to the same standard.......no lets say it apears to be the same as in your pictures!

[Kit Davidson]

The photographic stages are great and are clearing up what was a pretty vague build article. I think I've been reading this properly but........

 

No mention has been made of the radio fit except in the original article. Lindsay fitted his mini rudder and elevator servos behind frame 2 and his receiver to the side of the battery tray.  But the cockpit deck is glued in and so is the undercarriage plate. This will require the fitting of a servo tray in what has now become an inaccessible space. Mounting the servos would be just as impossible. But I am enjoying improvising around these instructions. I have placed my servo tray in the recommended position aft of frame 2. I intend making the undercarriage plate much smaller than Lindsay indicated in hisr latest photos and fit a ply door underside over the servo ,radio receiver and battery access similar to Lindsay's much earlier posting of 15 September. Those mini servos have the habit of stripping their plastic gear teeth! 

 

[Lindsay Todd]

Don't forget that there are many makes of reciever and servo's out there, and we can never cover all options. The radio bay witch is basically the space between F3 and F4 will accomodate servos and reciever with ease, I used the space forward of F3 under the cockpit floor on the prototype out of convienience and to assist the CG without any additional weight needed. The servo's used in the original were Hitec HS81 type and have proven to be pretty robust. The model was actually designed as a sport model that also makes a useful trainer, it has however been taken on as a trainer rather than  a sport model, it does change the emphasis on information and support you need. No worries thats what this forum is for. I'll post some more photo's soon.

 

Lindsay

 

[Kishor Jethwa]

ZULU ET,

Thought that this would be a good project but it did not get of to a good start. The formers F4 & F5 were wrong on the plan. The supporting article on build up in RCM&E was a bit vague to say the least and not too clear . Not recommended for the budding novice. Nonetheless, got the model finished and went off to the flying field for a first flight. What a disappointment, with the model all over the place and there was hardly any wind. Any attempt to loop or even roll would be out of the question. Maybe the tail feathers are too close to the wing ???? C of G was also set correct as described on the write up / plan.

Wing incidence could also be questioned here.

To sum up, this model was a total waste of time / money and the only consolation it being a free plan. Good job bonfire night is just round the corner.

Jet