Peewhit Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 It has finally arrived - that Wizard Compact x-tail - carbon 93 version. Just enough bits in the box and nothing missing First thing we all do is put it together X-tail with a proper elevator Engineered to fit together perfectly and there is a little wooshing sound of escaping air as you slide the wing onto the joiner. The tailplane bolts on with two recessed allen screws, and the rudder which will contain its own servo just fits. No mistaking which is the bottom. Plenty of room for wing servos and nice to see that carbon. And the servo covers - well they just fit too. Loads of room here for elevator servo, battery and receiver I thought that the fus was heavy. It was holding a 24oz ballast bar which also screws in with a recessed allen key Crucial bits of hardware like the metal control horns which screw in.And a tow hook? - suppose that's in case you break down - certainly won't need it for sloping off Horcum. And finally, a tribute to that nice guy Warrick who kindly made it all happen. PS does anyone have set up information? Edited By Peewhit on 15/09/2010 15:46:37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Smalley Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 see andy ellison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Burgoyne Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Ask Ian at sloperacer ....................hes always flying his Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooSey Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Smashin' bit of kit there. Enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Satinet Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 nice! I'm off to fly my funjet at Beverly on Sunday. It's not quite the same I fear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peewhit Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 Tom, Could you make Horcum on Sunday? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 there must be some Big dosh knocking around in yorkshire........ ken anderson...ne...1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispy Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Very nice. Is this an early Christmas present?!! Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peewhit Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 You work hard, you play hard, and why should I leave it to the kids? This is my present to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Satinet Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Posted by Peewhit on 16/09/2010 13:28:57:Tom, Could you make Horcum on Sunday? I don't know mate, I think my wife would like to get home in reasonable time. I might stick a sloper in on the off chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peewhit Posted September 29, 2010 Author Share Posted September 29, 2010 Far too wet for flying today so I have started to build the Wiz. Hyperion Ds11 servo fits beautifully in the tail and plenty of rudder movement. Not so for the 16mm elevator servo on the deck though The convex top of the ballast tube bit stops it seating properly.It's about 3mm too tall and the servo arm just fouls the nosecone I could move it forward but would like that space for half of the Specky receiver, and don't really want to carve away any more of the deck. Rethink time and I have found this little low profile beast 7.0 kg cm of torque - should do the job nicely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peewhit Posted September 29, 2010 Author Share Posted September 29, 2010 The Savox elevator servo arrived at lunchtime and sits on the deck nicely And it clears the nose cone A bit of measuring, cutting the snake which is 3mm wire, get the heat gun out and solder it together.I did melt a bit of the snake outer when soldering, so it is a little bit shorter than ideal.Seems to work OK though. Elevator movement is 13mm each way which should be plenty, especially when coupled with some snap flap Managed eventually to feed a 1200mm (1000+200) servo extension lead through the fus and out through the hole to the rudder. Fixed the socket in place with epoxy and microbaloons Even remembered to mark which was the front of the plug.Must have done something right because the rudder sits nicely on the fus and it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 pete - methinks you have been on the firewatter before you took the photo's-either that or my eyes are gonner's..... soft focus anderson...ne..1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peewhit Posted September 29, 2010 Author Share Posted September 29, 2010 Sorry Ken, Poor light due to the rain we've had all day, slow shutter speed and a bit of camera shake. Will see if I can get the tripod out for next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Foreman Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 Try the Macro button! Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Satinet Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 how come you are bending the pushrod to the servo like that? Seems better to keep a straight run. Is is a low profile servo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peewhit Posted September 30, 2010 Author Share Posted September 30, 2010 Hi Tom and well spotted, so the photos can't be that bad. The snake is fixed in position where it comes through the bulkhead and I did debate on this. The choice was to either keep the wire snake straight and have the clevice going onto the servo arm at an angle, or bend the snake and have the clevice in same plane as the servo arm. Considering the wear and tear (and eventual slop) with the clevice at an angle to the servo arm, and the fact that the snake inner is 3mm wire, I opted for the clevice in the same plane version. What would you have done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Burgoyne Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 Move the servo over to the other side of the fuz , cant understand why you would cross the fuz with the pushrod . even put it in the middle there must be 20mm depth at that point to the ballast tube.you dont really need a 7kg servo on the elevatorEdited By Andy Burgoyne on 30/09/2010 22:08:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Burgoyne Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 Of course you could always put it in the other end . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Satinet Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 I would move the servo nearer the pushrod. as Andy says, I don't understant why you have put the servo at the opposite side, unless there is something in the way. The servo would sit lower in the middle anyway, if height is an issue. I'm not trying to be critical, but you won't be helping the wear and tear and probably not the centring ether. Those metal pushrods are not designed for max flexibility. Edited By Tom Satinet on 01/10/2010 11:55:18Edited By Tom Satinet on 01/10/2010 11:55:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Satinet Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 looking at the angle of the pushrod i tm ight be better to cut through the deck and put the servo lower down if it will go. I see that it is a low profile servo, but the height it will sit is, of course, determined by where the lugs are on the case. I don't use the rubber grommets - I don't think there is a need on gliders - i stand to be corrected.Edited By Tom Satinet on 01/10/2010 11:59:51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peewhit Posted October 1, 2010 Author Share Posted October 1, 2010 Thanks Tom and Andy, I did wonder what that cover was at the rear of the fus - it seems to be stuck in place very firmly on my model. The servo is located on one side so that the arm is fairly central and hence clears the nose cone - seem to need a fairly long arm for the elevator movement, and I do appreciate that 7kg is a bit of an overkill. It is the low profile which is important as it only takes 20mm of below deck space. The depth is limited by the ballast tube eject slope which intrudes into the below deck space - might dispense with the grommets which would gain a couple of mm. Andy, do you have any set up information for this little beast? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Burgoyne Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 Ians your man at slopracer for the setup ...he eats drinks and sleeps Wizards ......mines a dsx so I guess the setup wouldnt be optimal for the lighter ones . If you have the hatch in the tail id be inclined to put one in there the pushrod is about 6 inches long then and the amount of lead up front wont be that great . If you do want to go that way just give me a shout and ill describe how i did mine . That way yopu get loads of room for as many rx's as you want . I would try and straighten out the pushrod though and maybe move a bit closer to the bulkhead to stop any flexing . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian mason Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 Hi Peewhit I think the set up I sent you from the Welsh Open was pretty acurate. The key thing I've found with the 93g cross tail it to keep thhe weight as low as possible at the back. Even making sure that any excess servo wire for the rudder doesn't sit in the boom. The nose it quite short so the extra lead you need to counter the tail can add up. Andy's 6lb beast doens't need to worry about that! The servo for the elevator (for what my opinion is worth) might as well stay pretty well where it is, if you start hacking lumps out of the inner nose it'll look as messy as one of my installs. cutting the snake hole to the side should keep things straight. If you fix the snake as well there shouldn't be any slop (I've never had any in my cross tail). Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 Hello and welcome Mr Sloperacer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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