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Tony Nijhuis 1830cm Spitifre


Herri
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Hi Dusty,I'll try and upload some pictures in the next day or so,but all I have built so far are the tail surfaces,still to be sanded to section,and the wings,which are virtually ready for the top sheeting.I have constructed mine in a slightly different order to Danny and Herri,in that I have completely sheeted the wing lower surface,and am now adding the retracts (fitted) and control systems.Just to be different,I am using the old system of central servos,and bellcranks,to avoid too many hatches under the wing...............Mal.
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Hi Mal, would be interesting to see your pics. The main reason for sheeting in the order we did I think is because the rib jigging tabs were done such that the wing is built the right way up. Therefore sheeting the top before removing from the board will hopefully keep things true. Did you make a cradle or transpose the tabs?
 
Belcranks are fine as long as you drill the holes to be a snug fit.
 
John Ranson uses bellcranks all the time and he has no slop in his linkages, I think this is because he is very accurate. I have numbered drill sets which go up in .1 mm increments, so finding the exact size is fairly easy. Well worth the investment.
 
You are quite right about the nose being longer on the MkIX Tony has based this model on a MkV, which has affectively the same shape fus as a MkI and MkII. I am doing a MkI and I think Herri is doing a MkV?
 
If you are doing a MkIX look at the elevator shapes they will not be correct for a MkIX Dusty has modified his to be correct
 
If this were IC then I would agree with your statement with regards to getting the C of G right being harder with the short nose, without the addition of lead. But as I am using leccy I will get the cells well forward to get the balance right, hopefully with no lead reqd. Well thats the plan
 
Cheers
Danny
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Hi Danny,I will try and upload some pictures this weekend.I have only just discovered how to do this,and I still find it a bit labourious and very time consuming. As regards the jiggng tabs ,I am scratchbuilding my model,and I cut the ribs etc from balsa sheet,leaving off the jigging tabs.As I said,I completely sheeted the lower surfaces,and when I come to sheet the upper surface,I will jig the wing on suitable blocks or wedges,still to be decided,to ensure a true wing.I must state at this point that I intend to incorporate about 3% of washout at the tips,which is something I have always done with a tapered wing,I have never noticed any adverse effects with this.I remember many years ago reading in an article that no less than Brian Taylor reckoned it was virtually essential in any tapered wing model,not that I disbelieve Tony Nijhuis when he says it is not required,but I will feel a bit happier with it.Anyway,I'll try for some pics this weekend................cheers,Mal.
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Hi guys,
Been a while since posting progress of the Spit, anyway here goes...

Got the power train installed, not much space on this model as the nose is very narrow.

Made my own custom canopy by using the original as a plug, thus I have a stong glass fibre canopy now, need to make the sliding mechinism still.

I have done the panel lines and rivits only on the fuselage so far, pain staking job!! Mr Biggles has a little smile on his mush now as his plane is starting to take shape!

Cheers
Dusty
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
I'm back
 
Sorry guys but I have been busy, been away etc. I have finished the Funcub that Santa brought me (maybe maiden it tomorrow? ) and at long last finished the time consuming wheel spats for the Gilmore.
 
I found it quite hard to get the Spit started again. Luckily I had made a few notes but it all looked somewhat daunting with bits everywhere.
 
Anyway I have now fitted the servos within the wings and plumbed in the gear.
Heres a few pictures:
 

I bought some of these servo screws with the hex head from Modelfixings with the appropriate driver - fantastic I have differnet sizes and use them for different jobs.
 

The extension leads have been secured and the joins (plug & socket) made safe with shrink tube.
 

This shows the top of the wing which sits within the fuse. I wanted to have the whole air system contained within the wing so as to avoid joints. I must admit it took me ages to decide how to get it all hidden with the valve accesable.
 

The pipes are not connected yet as I have to skin the wing.
 

The fill valve will be accessable from underneath with a detachable panel. This way the wing bolts are also invisible. I can still pump up the systen without taking the wing off.
 

I have done the radio set up today so now the wing can be skinned. The servo travel/end stops etc can still be adjusted via the radio at a later stage.
It did take me ages to find out how to have the flaps on the dial of my Futaba 7C and use two ailerons servos. The flaps are connected via a Y lead, so just use one channel.
 
I bought a "kill switch" for the petrol engine and only saw yesturday, that it needs a spare channel on the receiver. As its only seven channels, I dont have one. Anyone know if you can just use a switch? (as in slide switch)
 
I see Danny is forging ahead and Dusty is almost done. Well done guys.
 
Tally ho
Herri
 
 
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Hi Herri glad to have you back in the squadron, we were missing your posts
 
Looks good, and you are not very far behind us, work has meant I have got nothing really done on the Spit recently. My builds seem to go like that, a bit sporadic.
 
I am looking forward to seeing how you tackle the cowl I am still not convinced I have it right
 
Cheers
Danny
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I managed to get a bit more done as the weather was too cold to fly (for me anyway)
 
I have sheeted the bottom of the wing.
Because the servos are hidden, the push rods are connected and have to be fed through the skin. I now am wondering if I shouldnt have just had the servos accessable (and visible) as per TN, but hinsight is a wonderful thing.
 

I used card template to get the correct position of the push rods. They were stuck to the trailing edge with sticky tape.
 
These were then folded back and the balsa skin laid over and marked. The appropriate slits were cut in the skin and the push rods were fed through. The skin was then glued in place.
 


3 sheets of balsa were glued together as per the top of the wings and then fastened in one go. The remaining small strip was fitted later as can be seen on the photo.
 

The missing aileron skins were also added today and I made up the wing tips and leading edge from my 6mm balsa stock. There was no appropriate 12mm balsa left in the pack which I'd bought. Maybe I used up too much on the fuse.
 
I now only have to glue the tips and leading edge on, do some sanding and the wing is done
Well apart from cutting out the U/C wells etc.
 
I am hoping it will soon get a bit warmer as I want to try out my pertrol engine before I fit it. I'm not standing outside in this weather.
 
Cheers
Herri
 
 
 
 
 
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Looking good, Herri.
I havnt even started mine yet. I got all the laser cut bits and had my LADO electric retracts but sales intervened so have sold them.
LADO is picking up here and another TN Spit is being built here, with the LADO retracts.
Weather here is perfect for flying and with our club warbirds day in 3 weeks am busy fixing up muyCorsair and B25.
Cheers from Sunny South Africa.
Robin
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Thanks Robin.
I have heard of LADO retracts and I am looking at electric for my Gemini project.
I must do a bit more research.
Good luck with your warbird day, I'm so jealous of your weather.
 
I managed to bend the leading edge today (after breaking one) and got them glued.
I have also just glued the tips on.
Next job is a big sand/plane, that'll be in about a week as I'll be away for a week.
 
Cheers
Herri
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  • 2 months later...
Well I'm back
 
After many weeks, a total computer meltdown, a trip in the van and some flying I have got the spit out .
 
I have now sanded and shaped the leading edges and tips, done some adjustments to the flaps and ailerons and cut the whhel wells.
Of course Murphys law struck and the U/C wouldnt work. I was somewhat peeved as it was all nicely hidden. Anyway after much bad language and threats I managed to trace the leak to the inlet valve. I had trouble originally getting the air the go in and put it down to the fact I was using a bike pump and not the nice one from Robart. I have since bought this one but hadnt really tried it.
Looks like I will have to get a new one.
 



The next job is fixing the tail feathers, wing root, cowling etc.
 
I have made myself a target of getting the glassing done before we go away again to good old blighty at the end of June.
(I have managed to get my wife to agree to both North Weald and Cosford )
 
I see Danny is doing well and Dusty has flown his Spit - well done guys.
 
I am looking for some markings as I originally wanted to paint as the Mk IV from Al Deere but cant find the correct markings.
Any other ideas out there ??
 
Cheers
Herri
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Yesterday wasnt a good day. Crashed my Gillmore, an aileron servo came adrift inside the wing.
 
Today I have been bench testing my petrol engine. I didnt want to put it untested into the Spit.
 

I didnt get on too well as although it started ok, I cant get it to run right (have posted on IC Engines)
 
I have epoxed the tailplane and fin on the Spit and glued the two ply fairings in place.
Yes Danny, really looking forward to this bit
 

Right, lets see what balsa I have left.
Cheers
Herri
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  • 6 months later...
Tony Nijuis 72" spitfire query.... help help!
 
There are several people I can see that have probably finished and flown their spits, well I am nearing the end of building the wing and am looking at the arrangement (or lack of it) for hinging the ailerons. The drawing shows the section thro the aileron as if it hinges right at the top, however. The top surface is curved so if I hinge it close to the top then the side hinges will be under enormous strain as the movement attempts to wrench them out. The only way I can see of doing it is to take a straight line across the top edge on which to position the hinges and chamfer the top centre portion back to allow upwards movement. Is this what others have done??
 
Kit
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Hi Kit, as you can see at the top of this page Herri has used Robarts but set them slightly lower than the top skin, and for them to work they will be in a line obviously.
On mine I also used Robart pin hinges, set near the top of the aileron, but not alligned with the upper skin, it is curved as you rightly say.
I have just checked Tony's drawing and he shows the hinges simply between the sheeting and the trainling edge spar. I don't think that would work as the hinge line must be straight. And the wing curves towards the tip.
Hope this helps?
 
Cheers
Danny

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HI Kit (& Danny),
I will take some more pictures this afternoon and post them, although what Danny is saying is correct.
 
I have been doing some more on my Spit and believe it or not was going to start posting again this week.
 
Cheers
Herri
 
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Hi Herri and Danny,
 
Thanks so much for your extremely rapid response and helpful comments. I shall now continue progress with a straight line hinge set.
I also see you are intending glassing the model...well so am i but puzzled as to where to stop e.g. flaps and ailerons?... well I guess so.... inside the flaps?,,, prob not, inside the wheel wells?... again prob not. any thoughts guys?
 
Kit
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Hi Kit, My build thread is a little further along than Herri's, do you want to browse through that and see whether anything helps?
A quick reply, however, I used resin on the inside of the flap bays and aileron recess, but without cloth. My flaps were made from G10 fibreglass board so no need for any internal preparation.
When glassing the model I used a technique involving peel ply, again my thread shows the process, it eliminates the need for a flow coat and dramatically reduces the sanding required.
 
Once again sorry for diving in Herri

Cheers
Danny
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