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Setting up a Test Bed


Stephen Grigg
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Diesel (DERV . not Diethyl ether) is also good for degumming.
 
The trick we used to do with old Air cooled VW engines, which were known for reduced compression due to 'sticky valves', was to start the engine and keeping the throttle held open, pour a cup of diesel straight into the carb choke. It worked a treat....though everything in the street dissappeared into a cloud of grey smoke for a few minutes
 
 
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   I too remember sitting on my Grandfather’s knee whilst he was expounding the virtues of Redex as an additive for petrol. One shot from a glass dispenser on the garage forecourt, per gallon of petrol, which was then three and sixpence. He always said that was proper money, unlike today’s monopoly equivalent, which would be 17.5 pence.

   Methylated Spirit is also very good for cleaning model engine bits. It’s very similar to methanol, in fact I think it does contain some methanol, and it dissolves the gummed up oil etc. very quickly. I’ve never had that much success with mineral based products where stuff like castor oil is concerned .
   M/Spt is also very cheap, and extremely good for cleaning models. Over time it seems to take the colouring out of the plastic covering, but that may be the synthetic oil residue, I found that was a bit of a paint stripper when I first started using it.

   Actually, I’ve never tried it, but thinking about it, perhaps an engine might just run on methylated!
   That might just be the next experiment!

   PB
                                     
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Stephen,
 
Could do with a nice new engine test stand but the old 70's Mercury test bed doe's just fine for up to 40's.  It's bolted to a piece of B&Q shelf which is screwed to a piece of 2" x  1/12" that clamps in the work stand. Whole lot varnished with Polyurethane. Tanks are held on with Tie wraps. Both needed packing to get the levels set up to mid spray bar.
I run all of my engines in the garage, and the splatter from the residue can be a pain on the inside of the garage and was thinking of screwing a plastic waste hopper behind the engines to collect all of the blow back residue. With my collection of diesels and glows, plus running the mower and bike the garage smells just like a good garage should.
 

Cheers, Chris.
 
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Thanks BB you have answered one of my questions.You have to be able to adjust the height of the tank depending on the engine being tested.I was using small cable ties to start with,then a leather strap.In a short time the belt seemed to stretch.Better get some bigger cable ties.That is a good engine stand you have there.I have trouble getting the engines tight some times because bits get in the way of the allen bolts.

Edited By Stephen Grigg on 27/11/2010 20:33:23

Edited By Stephen Grigg on 27/11/2010 20:34:57

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Hi Stephen,
 
I've seen this type of test stand going on Ebay from time to time, but to be honest the newer style stands are much better particularly with larger engines. All of my engines are small by today's standard (up to 40's) as I tend to stick with the smaller models. My cable ties came from Aldi in a big tub for £1-99, although the re-usable ones would be good if I could find some. The tank height is critical with older engines where crankcase suction is critical due to wear, I generally change o rings and gaskets to reduce the leakage as much as possible when I re-build an old engine.
 
As I'm mostly electric, I don't tend to fly the IC's much, but there's nothing like firing up the old diesels and glows for a bit of aroma therapy particularly when its mixed in with the smell of Ambroid and dope.
 
Chris.
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Hi Spark's,
 
Probably warmer in your end of the world, haven't stared the Popsie build yet, due to running out of room in the shed, but still feel like building two, one electric and one for the Mills in the photo. In the new year the next project after the kitchen's finished is to re-roof the garage and line it out with some insulation, I'll have plenty of room then. Probably do like Stephen is doing and working through the engine collection one at a time. Love the video of you firing up the PAW.
 
David,
 
Know what you mean, but it's usually me that smells of diesel, particularly after the free flight sessions at Old Warden. I still sometimes like to build with balsa cement particularly Ambroid, with tissue and dope covering, when that's mixed in with the smell of the engines it's magic.
 
Chris.
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Sparks,
 
Something like a Mercury Matador or KK Bandit would be more suitable, but you would still need to slow the PAW down a bit. I've got kits for both in the shed and could copy the plans if your interested. I did build a KK pirate for the Merlin which fly's well if the compression is backed off, it'll do classic power on left hand, power off right hand circuits, and gets flown every year for the Old Warden mayfly event.
 
Chris.
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