David Ashby - Moderator Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Wow, awesome job you're doing there Paul and so quick too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codename-John Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Great looking build so far, im doing a Topflite kit, the P-51 D Mustang 1/7th scale, can i ask around how long it took to receive your retracts after ordering cos ive just ordered mine direct from robart like yourself, worked out about £100 cheaper even paying $60 postage ! also can i ask where you get waxed paper from, im using baking / greaseproof paper under mine an it sticks to the cyano joints everytime cheers, Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 Hi Neil, to be honest the wax paper is some thing I have had for ages in the garage I cant remember where it came from, I hate to say this but although the delivery time was quite quick from Robart I got stung with customs. Unlike our China friends the Yanks mark up retail price on packages and the old VAT army jump on them. It was quite a shock fella hope yours slip through. Fantastic quality though. Great model you have picked are you doing a build blog? Thanks for your feedback guys.Edited By Paul Williams on 18/02/2011 22:20:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 I have to say for the first time since starting this I really struggled today. The wing sheeting being the problem. The forward section was no trouble But then the instructions stated lay out the aft wing sheeting and trim to size, The sheet fits from the main spar up to the centre of the TE. The TE is 1/8 ply section so the sheet must be trimmed within a 1/32 tolerance. Its impossible to see the TE with the sheeting laid on the wing how the hell can you trim it to size. After 3 brews and a whiskey I could not figure out a method to cut the sheet without removing the wing from the plan and flipping it over so I could mark the sheet from the rear first. What a pain once cut I had to replace and re-pin the wing down. Perhaps someone has a method other than this help please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Hi Paul, would this work.... Lay the sheeting over the wing with the forward against the mainspar, then probe with a pin where you think the TE is until you find the ply and make a mark. Go to the inboard end and do more probing. Draw aline between the two marks. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Oops you have already removed it from the plan, sorry didn't see that..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Yeh but this is the first of two wing halfs so your advice is welcome, I will try it thanks mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 Amazing how quick you go when you’ve done it once, just a few hours and the left wing panel is up to the same stage. Flap and aileron sheeting goes on. When I came to proof fit the retracts it did not quite go to plan. The retracts shown in the instructions are different I checked with Robart and the ones they have sent me are updated because of complaints they did not completely tuck away. In a bid to get more of the wheels hidden they know hit the top sheeting before locking in. I guess my choice of wheels might not help but the only way to make things right is to pack up the inner fixing rail by 1/8. They now lock ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted February 26, 2011 Author Share Posted February 26, 2011 Good day today, got the wing half’s ready to epoxy together. It’s a testament to the kit that when slotted together with the dihedral brace in there is no gap in the joint. The dihedral worked out to within a 1/16. Happy days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 Its strange, yesterday I galloped along and there was something to show at the end of the day. I seemed to work twice has hard today and hardly moved along. Still a pleasant rainy Sunday was had. The first job was to fit the wing dowels and centre dowel plate. After a bit of thought I figured the best way was to employ my trusty old engineering V blocks to ensure the drill went through at the right angle. It meant I had to turn the drill by hand but it did not take long into Balsa. Nice of them Topflite boys to supply a jig to hold the wing steady Then onto the bottom sheeting, I can’t believe how long this took but I figured do the cut outs before fixing the aft sheeting on so if it turns out a disaster it will be easy to remove. Worked out ok though. I traced the wheel well opening off the plan and taped it to the sheeting to ensure the cut out was right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 I must try to get a move on the Mrs has spotted some sunny days and is insisting on her conservatory back !Time to remove the flaps and ailerons from the main wing Although there is some way to go before the wing fitting I could not resist a quick peep at what it will look like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cantwell Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 can i just ask, having had my first good look at this lovely build, what are the retracts secured too? all i see is a slot, which obviosly the ply plate slides into, then it looks like a bearer is simply glued to the ply rib? is there anything else the retracts are secured too? it really should have had a plate going though at least a rib, and a second rib, to take the landing and sideways loads? sorry for being picky, but better now than when the gear comes out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 I take your point, the support ribs are ply lamenated with slots cut into them for the bearers to fit in. I also drilled and fitted 2mm steel dowels through the ribs and bearers so the epoxy has little to do.Because the gear is a solid steel mounting in effect it should bond the total area combining the strengh of both bearers. I have read quite a few reviews and to date no reports of a weakness in that area but I guess time will tell eh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cantwell Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 my fingers are crossed looking good so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 Fitting the wing tips was easy enough although you would not believe the pile of shavings from the waste. I took some time to experiment with the finishing varnish Poly C, after reading many forums it seems you must use sanding sealer first then apply the glass cloth and varnish. I did not fancy using the sealer because of the odour so I tried sealing the surface with PVA first. I covered two balsa pieces 4”x4” the pva warped like a banana! So be warned don’t use a water based sealer. The cloth stuck well refusing to pull off I will try spraying it next to check out the finish. I was concerned with the price my local shop was charging for glass cloth so after hunting round I found a great company who were very helpful. They sent me a sample and it’s the same stuff model shops are charging £7 a meter. I got 5 meters for £5.50 great service arrived next day. http://www.fibreglassdirect.co.uk/ Next job flaps and ailerons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 I have to say I struggled with the flaps, after cutting them away from the wings the next step is to glue on the LE this is cut into two pieces so the flap control section can be inserted in between the skins. Somehow this led to the flaps getting warped so I had to spray them with glass cleaner and clamp them flat. I got away with it ! They dried and stayed flat. The kit helps out here with a drill guide to help centre the single point hinges Thinking more about the covering I did some tests using glass cloth and poly c varnish. Its quite impressive here is a sample and as you can see its survived being folded back, the balsa snapped. With all the control sections now hinged its time to fix and align the wing. The instructions call for sighting the alignment by eye but I figured out a more scientific method. Turn the fuse upside down and ensure the fuse and stab are level. A good builder’s level is the tool to have. Once all is fine fix on the wings and bolt them down, using blocks set the level up to check all is fine. Then glue in the wing dowel doublers so they hold the wing correctly. Its again a testament to the kit that almost no adjustment was needed. Sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Abrahamsson Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Hi its a nice plane to build and fly. Have a zenoah 62 in mine whit magneto ingnition, works perfect lots off power. The cg com out perfect whit this engine, location on plan no extras at all. I allways land at full flap,whitout it will take a long field to come down. First fly i go around 5 times whitout them, much lift in that wing. Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Looks fabulous Paul, really coming on well Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Very impressive Paul - nice work. I've just been trying Ronseal 'Ultra Coat' clear spirit-based polyurethane varnish as an alternative to cellulose sanding sealer as a pre Poly-C coating on some scrap balsa. So far it seems to be successful with no warping, but it does take much longer to dry than cellulose. There are obviously still some fumes but they are much more domestically acceptable than cellulose! Maybe one to try. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Abrahamsson Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 Send you a little film. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_5mZBMzCi0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted March 20, 2011 Author Share Posted March 20, 2011 Posted by Richard Wood on 17/03/2011 12:45:11: Very impressive Paul - nice work. I've just been trying Ronseal 'Ultra Coat' clear spirit-based polyurethane Thanks fella will try it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted March 20, 2011 Author Share Posted March 20, 2011 Next step was to sort the wing fillet sections, I stared at this some time before I decided to improvise with some taper section to build the width the rear is sheeted as instructed. Whilst the filler is setting onto the bellypan. Straight forward here I felt the space here was wasted and decided to use it, I buried an extra air cylinder in there hopefully it’s a no maintenance item so I have not bothered with a access hatch. I feel the advantage of extra capacity will outweigh the few grams extra. Finish sheeting up. I keep putting it together to inspire me on, I am reaching the stage where I am fighting the urge to just finish it and fly. It was my intension to take my time and complete the job with lots of detail like panel lines and rivet heads but the thought of 30-40,000 rivets plus the weather improving week by week Mmmmmmmm. Show piece or useable toy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Looking fabulous Paul, do the rivettting and stuff, you will only regret it in the long run..... P-47 seem to be flavour of the month, there were 4 in the air together yesterday at Warbirds over Sleap. They do fly very well. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Williams Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 Thanks Danny your right, a few hours now will make a big difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 There can't be more than 30,000 rivets...... wont take you more than a month if you can do a 1,000 rivets a day Okay if it will make you feel better I will do rivets on my Spitty so we can suffer together....... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.