JayCee Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Hi I Have A Hobbywing 70A-HV Brushless ESC which I want to use with an E-Flite Power 110 295Kv Brushless Outrunner but I'm confused about the ESC 'Timing' Do I use the default setting? How do I know the correct setting? What are the effects of the various settings? JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Generally speaking outrunners will be best on hard timing , and inrunners on low.Hard timing on inrunners will increase power ( and of course current - ya dont get 'owt for nowt ) If the timing is wrong, most motors will complain by exhibiting a screeching sound or stuttering, or maybe wont start up smoothly. I may be doing a tutorial on this in an upcoming mag - but dont hold me to that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 How do you know what settings you have? That depends on the ESC - some can be programmed and confirmed by a card, others will play tunes and you have to try and dechiper them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCee Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 Hi Tim Thanks for your response. As you may have gathered from the post my Chinese Clone Outrunner in my Hangar 9 Pulse 125 has let me down...you did warn me I guess you get what you pay for, power keeps dropping off for no apparent reason. It was fine when it was producing around 1800 watts but intermittently it keeps losing power. I checked it at the 'Strip' today and it was down to about 1400 watts, enough to get it airborne, but the stick is flat out into the wind! All up weight is about 11 Lbs maybe a tad more. So have had to bite the bullet and order the recommended motor a E-Flite (loads of wonga ) just wanted to make sure the ESC settings were at optimum I think the default is low/soft I have a programing card so I will put it up a notch. Thanks JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 JayCee it sounds like a battery problem to me? Or do you think the magnets are "going off"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Remember that your wattmeter is reading the input power, not what's being produced.As Chris said sounds more like a battery problem. If it was the motor (including weakening magnets) the power input would be increasing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Yes I agree, worth checking some battery data before you buy another motor JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCee Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 Oooops should have asked first replacement motor ordered and paid for this evening Batteries both new, 2 X 4S 5000mah in series ( 8 Cell) appear to charge and balance well, what battery checks can I make? JCEdited By JayCee on 18/02/2011 22:07:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 What voltage are they holding under full load? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 I think Tims on the right track here JC,one cell in your series set up could be causing a problem, also carefully check all power connectors and any joints in cables. Are you running the esc close to rated current ,does it get quite hot? if so it might be getting close to thermal shut down. TW2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCee Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Hi Tom & Tim Don't you ever go to bed you guys Tim's post gone midnight and Tom's gone 1 am! As it's only 7.15 Saturday morning and I don't want to disturb the neighbours I will do a through test later this morning and post the results here. But so far have charged both the batteries at 1C on separate chargers, both took about the same time and cell voltage at termination was between 4.20v-4.19v per cell I know that means nothing as a cell can be breaking down under discharge. So I have also charged a second set of slightly smaller 4S 3700mah which I know are good as I use them in other models and I will do a second test on those........so watch this space! Having a problem getting the 'Hobbywing' programing card to work on the 70amp HV ESC for some reason, works on all my other 'Hobbywing' ESC's with a BEC but this HV version has no BEC. My set up is this:- Disconnect the throttle feed from ESC to Rx Connect the 'Card' lead (the shorter one) to the programing card BEC input. Supply a separate power supply (6 volt Rx battery pack) to the power input on the card, but no lights and no joy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Dav 2 Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Tim, I take it that 'hard' timing equates with the 'high' timing on my card. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Yes Barrie.JC - Dont tell me that you haven't got a Wattmeter? What we need to see s the pack voltage under load, the current drawn, and then we can start guessing at the problemUnfortunately not all ESCs are compatible with the various programming cards - I have 5 of these cards now for various units, including 3 different types just for turnigy / hobbywing stuff. Your procedure is correct, so it sounds like a compatibility issue - you may need to revert to the tx beep system - good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Dav 2 Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Thanks Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCee Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Ok Results! Tim of course I have a Watt Meter Batteries fully charged no load 33.5V Batteries full load (full throttle) 30.98v Max drawn current 42.56 amps Input watts today even less than yesterday 1343 watts! Just to recap:- 2 X 4S 5000mah in series Prop 17X10 Something just ain't right! Been onto the guys at Hangar (My Hobby Store) their figures on the same set up (E-Flite motor) just under 2000 watts ! JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCee Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Further to the above:- ESC Timing...if only it was that easy 8 different settings! on ESC 0- 3.75. - 7.5 - 11.25- 15 -18.75 - 22.5 - 26.25 (15 degrees is the default. Non compatible programing card....oh and did I tell you my hearing is not what it used to be ding dong bleep bleep doesn't mean a lot to me JC Edited By JayCee on 19/02/2011 11:10:55Edited By JayCee on 19/02/2011 11:11:30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Hmm, batteries sound fine then. It would be good to try the ESC timing changes first if possible, but then again - you said it was performing fine "in the beginning".I hesitate to suggest it - but have you checked and double checked all the basic things like wiring, connectors, dry joints? etc. Does the motr run smoothly - no stuttering, odd noises etc - could it have thrown a magnet, or overheated and the bearings failed etc. Seems like you may have made a good decision with the "buy it now" button on its replacement after all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCee Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Hi Tim Yes I have checked all the wiring and connections, although we can all make errors I was a Television engineer in my earlier life so soldering is second nature to me and I'm happy that all is fine in that respect. The motor starts and runs smoothly and appears to have loads of power but the Wall meter readings and performance say otherwise! I've sent an e-mail to GC technical (were I purchased the ESC and Card) The card is compatible to Hobbywing Pentium/Guard range. But this is a Hobbywing Platinum so once again you could be right regarding non compatibility. Hopefully they will be able to supply a suitable replacement. As far as the timing settings go...........in the list above what would you go for to start the ball rolling so to speak.........or is it just trial and error. Going to put it on the 'Back Burner' until the E-Flite motor arrives on Tuesday and start again from scratch. Will keep you posted. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GONZO Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 I can confirm that you need another prog card. Got both types of ESC and they need diferent cards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCee Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Thanks Gonzo Trying to locate one GC No stock JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GONZO Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Give Robotbirds a call. Theres this ONE @ £16.95 and this ONE @ £6.95 (same as the one I've got).Edited By GONZO on 19/02/2011 14:08:21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 It can be sometimes trial and error - but for maximum power its likely to be high timing, although some motor/speedo combos just wont play together when set to max.Remind us again which of the motors you are using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Hmm applying ohms law to your data JC suggests the set up is quite efficient.the difference between power shown on the watt meter ,and Mr Ohms answer eg A x V =W is what you would expect. If the esc is ok ,and no undue resistance is present tn the connectors or joints ,its back to the motor i have loads of e-flight motors never had a problem although some have a limit on the number of cells .sounds like you are running the motor and esc a bit close to the limits ,eg 1800w = 30v x 60a ,what is the best efficiency current quoted for the motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCee Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Gonzo Firstly, Thank you Gonzo Have sent an e-mail to Robortbirds to confirm stock! Tim The motor will be This One Tom Continuous current 55 amp Burst 65 amp JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 So 55 x 30 = 1650 w in, less 25 w losses = 1625w continuous and 65 x 30 = 1950 w burst. OK if you can believe the motor / esc specs, personally i would want more safety margins eg 30%. I see the motor spec calls for good quality 85a esc?Edited By tom wright 2 on 19/02/2011 16:34:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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