Wiltshire Flyer Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 WOW! have to admit, i clicked on the vid with no intention of watching the whole thing.... but i was mesmerised at the accuracy and speed of the build, great job Danny!! Can i just ask at the risk of sounding a little dense (but i have been out of the hobby for ten years) what glue were you using in the red and green bottles? seem ed very quick setting and you used alot of the green one? some tips on the glue you used would be great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiltshire Flyer Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 So, any tips on the glue please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 DF - the "pink" was thin Zap I think. A CA. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 for balsa i use aliphatic glue where i can as it is easy to sand after it is dry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 Me to, but Danny was building against the clock so needed something that would set quickly. Some people use CA for almost everthing. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiltshire Flyer Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 Thx for the reply guys, so CA is ok to use on wing spars is it? i always assumed it would be a little brittle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Sorry guys only just spotted this thread...... I think David set it up. Thanks BEB for fielding the questions, and sorry Dorset flyer I don't normally ignore people, honest I find the pink zap (thin) CA is fine for all soft/medium balsa stuff, but if you need a little more time to position then thick zap. Any more time than that then I use Titebond aliphatic. Some hard balsa and ply's its either Titebond or epoxy. the slower setting for the tougher bonds. I try to avoid kicker as this seems to stop the CA soaking into the joint and freezes it on the surface, but it is good in low strength areas to hold things. Especially where lite and birch ply are being used. You can mix coloidal silica with your epoxy to make it stiffer so that it doesn't run away from the joint. Mixing microbaloons with epoxy will create a fairly easily sanded lightweight filler. Everybody tells me aliphatic is easy to sand, I must say I find thin zap easier. maybe it depends on the make of the glue?Hope that helps?Once again sorry for the tardy replyCheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 I should probably add the "thin" pink Zap is great for "wicking" into assembled bals joints. But where you want to apply glue and press pieces together, then the green "thick" zap is the boy for me CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiltshire Flyer Posted April 27, 2011 Author Share Posted April 27, 2011 I forgive you for ignoring me Danny! That was really helpfull thank you very much, i have only ever used either P.V.A or Epoxy so all these other new fangled glues are a little confusing, but you have made it a little clearer. So thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 I do know exactly what you mean. I was away from modelling for many years and when I came back the array of adhesives and materials is incredible. Fortunately nowadays we have the Internet and modelling websites/forums to help us, either to ask questions or just watch and see how the others do things. CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yobyid Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Hi Danny Thanks for sharing your efforts......a great job. As an ARTF guy (so far) I found it very interesting and informative.......such that I might even consider a 'real' kit now Cheers Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Excellent!!! Thats what we want to see. CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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