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I've flown I/c, electric, power glider, fixed wing, unfixed wing , had a go at a jet and even had a go at full size too. I've never lovelingly built something with as much car as possible then chucked it off a cliff. Sometime fairly soon though...
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Hi Lee,
 
I'm only just taking the plunge so I thought I'd blog it.
 
I'll be starting with a brief look at putting a Zagi together then concentrating the actual introduction to soaring. There will indeed be loads of supporting photos.
 
I've got offers from Dave Gilder & Tim Mackay to help me get started, depends on who is around when the Zagi & I can make it to the Gt. Orme. I'm really looking forward to trying something different so I'm sure it will be great fun.
 
(Lurking in the hangar is a DG1000 but whoa, quick pull on the reins. All in good time!)


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Thanks Steve, I hope I can make it interesting for you more experienced slopers.
 
To set thing rolling, here's the starting point:
 
So here's all the bits. Not a lot to put together but still scope for a good job. Since I just know this is going come down on something hard I've gone for the "bullet tape" option. This stuff is like that webbed reinforced packing tape; it makes models bullet proof apparantly. Bullet tape it seems doesn't like uv light and so in turn that is to be covered by yellow coloured tape. Some decent servos should make sure those 45mph winds don't get the better of it. No Rx shown here - I was going to use an old Futaba 35Mhz but with the breaking news of the new Hitec Minima 2.4Ghz units appearing it's looking like that will be the more likely option as I already have a Hitec 2.4Ghz Eclipe 7 Tx with a spare memory.
 
The instructions look straight foward to follow except the fitting of the winglets. I can't quite follow the description of what to do with the tape to secure them and the photographs are really poor. I think JP should either put in photographs worth viewing or not bother. Pity really because it's really nice to read some instructions in real genuine English and intended for the UK market.
 
Well look at the time! No more today - ooh actually it will be later today when I make a start on the assembly. I'm trying hard to resist using foam cyano and get the good old epoxy out.
 
Ian

Edited By Ian Jones on 05/07/2011 00:57:01

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Right thats a jp-si kit , I wouldn't/didn't put any glue on the epp front le at all, just tape the thing together , unfortunately the white foam area hates all sorts of glue so if you choose to glue ( i didn't ) make sure it isn't going to eat your model.
 
I just taped mine up , cw tape strips top and bottom along the epp/white foam 50/50 , made hinge joints every 4" along the te then used the covering tape to do just that "cover"
 
If done this way , you'll build it fast , strong enough ( white stuff ain't very strong ) and it will be light , having a light jp-si will mean you'll have less momentum when you crash into the slope
 
Don't worry when timbo announces that your now good enough for combat ( once you can keep the model in the air for more than a min ) He couldn't hit a barn door unless it was thrown at him lol
 
get her built , learn to fly it, then move on Tim has alan heads phone number when your ready
 
Lee
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winglets are easy too ( guess who didnt read it all first lol )
Youll see a slot in each winglet about 3/4 of an inch up from what will be the bottom . cut some cw tape ( fg reinforced tape ) the same width as the slot then feed it so that about an inch or so is on the top of the wing then goes through the slot around and onto the bottom of the wing , making sure all is lined up , then just use a few strips of cw tape to stick it on front and rear , when you cover make sure you cover all the cw tape other wise it will just look like some one put powder all over your tape .
 
Lee
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Building it light will give you flying options later on when you've become more preficient and experienced as a slope flyer, for those days like I had on Sunday when there was very little lift at times and had to rely on thermals with my light glider. The boys who turned up with heavier planes were struggling to stay in the air.
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I will come back one day mate I know you miss me I just cant afford the north walien cakes lol
 
Lee
 
sorry and back to the topic ***
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Posted by stephen wenban on 05/07/2011 03:50:18:
Ian forget the epoxy on EPP use PU glue gorilla glue or similiar . Just remember to put plastic under it on the bench when gluing using PU otherwise your wing will become one with your bench
 
Hi Stephan,
 
Bricks & mortar me, not used to this foam stuff. Anyway I've just looked it up on the interent and I get the idea so I'm off shopping.
 
Glueing this afternoon
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Posted by ken anderson. on 05/07/2011 08:07:40:
go on ian....i started gliding with a zagi---3 years ago-----load of fun and will survive the early mis-calculations ....have fun...
 
 
ken anderson ne..1 gliding dept.
HI Ken,
 
I didn't realise you were sloper, must be a more common affliction than it appears!
 
Steve, Lee & Tim,
 
All comments noted thanks, I'll bear them in mind. Do barn doors have winglets too?
 
Ian

Edited By Ian Jones on 05/07/2011 10:36:04

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Posted by David Gilder on 05/07/2011 11:34:08:
Posted by Ian Jones on 05/07/2011 10:32:57:
Do barn doors have winglets too?
 
Ian

Edited By Ian Jones on 05/07/2011 10:36:04

Ian,
In Derbyshire they do... Also the sheep have them fitted to their ears!!!
 
LOL!!!
 
Dave
 
Hah! That raises the question as to which flies best.
 
Erm, moves quickly back to the Zagi and today's events...
 
Thanks for the suggestion otherwise Lee but I've decided I will use glue, so first off today was to go to my LMS for that Hitec Minima Rx - out of stock so I placed an order. Then I asked for Gorilla glue, "Have you broken it?". An explanation followed with a negative result.
 
Next stop, the nearest likely place to the LMS, Wilkinsons. Nope . On to the the nearest DIY shop to my home and...

... good now I can get started.

Oh no, I just can't help myself, I have to do it...

..now that's what I call a good brew.
 
And at last...
 

It's okay - I have taken notice of the advice above and made sure I haven't stuck the wing to my work bench.
 
This Gorilla glue looks like good stuff, quite expensive but so little is used that it will go a long way. It penetrates with a foaming action caused by moisture provided by a light dampening of one of the surfaces to be joined. This foaming is evident after the curing process has got under way...
 
 
Tempting though it is to continue with the leading edges safely taped into place & the Gorilla curing (there must be joke there somewhere), I'll stop at this point and resume tomorrow.
 
Ian
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once cured you can use a new snapoff blade and just cut the excess off . I have to say WOW i've not seen a EPP leading edge EPS mix on a Chervon wing since the late 90's .
Not sure what price they are over there for that but maybe a good alternative is a windrider Bee which is a moulded EPP wing . Bit late now but save the info for latyer on
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I've been looking at the Windrider Bee and Beevolution Stephen. My two flying buddies and I are looking at chevron wings to compete against one another. The idea is to set up a F3F type course to fly around but in between have canes with ballons attached and you have to hit your own coloured balloon. Round one you can only attack your balloon when flying left to right, round 2 is right to left, and round three is either direction. Could be a lot of fun
 
Back to the thread though. That Gorilla glue looks like the stuff that Alan Head supplies with his Wildthing for joining the wing halves, he supplies it in a little pot and seemed good stuff, my Flying Wings Hawk used UHU POR.
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Sorry to correct you Steve but the glue alan sends is a latex glue , I doesnt foam at all , you paint it on each surface then let it dry , you then have one hit at putting it together
 
Lee
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