Starting an engine

[Shaun Flint]

ok i am promising not to start my engine ( i can't as i have no glowstarter!and the fuel i have is too old and has turned very gungy, which can't be good)

[Tim Mackey]

[Aslan]

[Mike Stevens]

I have just stared using I/C engines again at the ripe 'old' age of 50 - last time I tinkered, apart from a Cox .049 and they don't count  - I shouldn't really say that as they will still damage you - was at school with PAW diesels. Coming back into it now I am older, wiser and more aware of my mortality so treat them with upmost respect and put a chicken stick between the prop and my fingers. Get some help in starting first time Shaun - once you have mastered it you will be more confident but always respect.

Mike

[Adrian Smith]

Starting engines for the first time is fraught with danger so be careful please mike, enlist the help of a friend. incidently, this is going to look absolutely rediculous when you read it but it does work and it keeps your fingers well out of the way when the engine bursts into life (hopefully!)

Ensure that the prop nut is very tight . turn the engine over compression with one finger covering the carb air intake a few turns to draw the fuel from the tank mto the engine, connect the glow plug lead, turn the engine over again, you should feel it "bump" as it goes over top dead centre, close the thottle to idle setting and then..... wait for it! flick the prop over BACKWARDS!.... I know that looks daft, but it does work and is the safe way to hand start an engine.

Now I am waiting for all the indignant emails to come flooding in calling me an idiot, I suggest that before they do however, TRY IT! It really works. regards adrian,

[Mike Stevens]

Hi Adrian

I am quite happy starting my engines. I was just advising Shaun that even when you get used to it use a degree of respect but thanks anyway. My fingers and thumbs used to get covered in cuts and nicks when I played with 3.5cc dielsels and in those days 10cc engines were big to us though seem the club norm now.

I have seen and heard of reverse flicking to start using the momentum of the compression to spin the prop. I even found a vidoe link on RCGroups where the guy held the spinner in between thumb and finger and span it 'backwards' against the compression and it started straight away. I stick to my chicken stick  

Thanks

Mike

[Mouldy]

erm...you connect glow and turn the engine over with WOT?? What the hell are you doing???

I cant believe that with everything that has been said you then go and attempt to describe how to start an engine and then get it wrong! It may work for you but then its your fingers to do what you like with.

The last time I saw a guy start an engine that way he ended up in hospital with lacerations to his hand and inner thighs as the engine fired, lept at him which he then tried to stop with his hand. This failed although his legs did stop it for him, about 3" short of his gonads. 

[Aslan]

I really think we should let Shaun get the help he has agreed to i.e. let someone with experience show him.There are other issues like model restraint,how to hold the model while starting,how to stand,all very important safety issues of course.Then there's electric starters too.Some of the advice here would be for experienced modelers.I've used the bump method only on small 4 strokers that I had a problem with.And even when doin' this I make sure I grab,not hold,one side of the prop with my whole hand and turn it clockwise very slowly.Then when it starts I always make sure the tailplane is tight against the restraint before I let go of the model,and letting go is another thing.I loosen my grip slowly then slide me hand a couple of inches back,then lift it away from the model like a ballet dancer.I've seen some lads hold the model with their right hand,thumb to left WRONG.thumb to right,elbow up,then the only way you can go is away from the prop when taking your hand away.What about removing the glow start.The classic is reach over and remove it.....along with some fingers.Even when done properly from behind,I've seen lads through it over the prop instead of behind them,or leaning over the spinning prop with forehead dangerously close to the spinning machete.Man I have seen some idiots out there,and I'm sorry ,but that what someone is if they don't follow the rules.I certainly am not the greatest flier but when it comes to starting an engine safely I make sure I'm fantastic...... and so should everybody else.In fact we should all be equal at this part of the hobby.Sorry for ranting lads,just sick of seeing people messin' with spinning steak knives.....and laughing after a near miss,a very near misses.

[Aslan]

..

[Kelly]

I remember starting my first  model engine.It was a .75cc Bantum ,not sure who made it but it was a glow engine fitted to a 30" wingspan mercury free flight job, I was 11yrs old . with my big blue battery and old fashioned glow clip I  filled the tiny fuel tank from my pint can of glow fuel, followed the instructions, flicked the prop and it started, buzzing away like a demented wasp.

The model to my suprise flew, going higher and higher in a spiral drifting with the wind ,I remember the panic and running after it hoping the motor would cut because the piece of fuse that was to burn through the rubber band holding the tail down fell out  during the launch (oldies like me know what I am on about) It came down at last in a gentle spiral . I will always remember the feeling of elation at the first flight of my first IC model.

Later on when I was about 14yrs old, I aquired a OS25 for my first proportional radio model (rudder/throttle) It seemed massive compared to my other engines 1.5 mills, cox.49 etc .

To run the engine in I purchased an engine test stand and bolted it to the bench in my Dads garage. I wore a thick glove and used a piece of broom handle to start it ,when it started it  sounded amazing burbling along at low revs and when after the running in I opened it to full throttle it was a bit scary.  Happy days.  I have a short video clip of me at the flying field with my Ripmax Dazzler the model the engine was fitted to,I will dig it out and post it if I can find it.

We all need to be very careful with IC engines, whatever our age or experience.They are not toys . You  need to always be aware of the propeller , it is in effect   a  circular saw and will do the same sort of damage if any part of you body gets in the way.

I have just come over all nostalgic, just wish I had the time to build something .

Kelvin

[David Ashby - Moderator]

i.c. motors always used to frighten me when I were a lad ....still do, which I've told myself is a healthy state of mind, the more cautious the better.

[Merton Ruck]

 Hi Shaun. I dont know how old you are,but take a bit of sound advise froman 80 yr old (young) still active flyer & get some help if you can,but if not,press on mate,a lot of us had to learn the hard way. Just make sure that engine is secure to a test bench,& keep well away from that prop.But above all dont give up at the first hurdle,there will be many more to come,but the satisfaction at the end makes it all worth while 

                                      Best of luck
 

[Kelly]

The biggest engine I hand started was back in my Gliding days.

Swinging the prop on a Falke SLMG, WW1 style- contact .

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Kelly]

Eric

A lot more fun than setting old airfix models alight with lighter fuel.

[Tim Mackey]

Oh yes I remember doing that !!

[Mike Stevens]

Yes - me too and the odd banger underneath them too - such fun....

[David Martin 2]

Hi Shaun,

All good advise on here mate, if and only if you have to go it alone, save up and get yourself an electric starter and fit a quality spinner to the engine. Fit the engine very securely outside in the open somewhere so that when it starts, the noise won't upset anyone and any vibration won't be able to loosen your mount and tank.

You should find the manual for your engine here somewhere...

http://www.osengines.com/manuals/index.html

Print it off and learn it. Everything you need to know will be in here somewhere. These OS people know a thing or 2 about engines..!

You say the engine is stiff to turn, it may be a little gunged up if it had been run some time ago, take the plug out, fit a prop (for hand cranking it over later) and run a little fuel or light oil in the plug hole, exhaust manifold opening and carb opening. Leave it upright for a while then gradually, without forcing anything, try and get more and more movement until it frees up. It may be an unrun ABC engine where turning it over feels like the piston is too big for the insides. Don't worry, that's normal at cold. Ask your Dad if it's run before.

The starter will hopefully keep any fingers of yours where they should be and when connected up properly to a lead acid 12v battery (i.e +ve to +ve/red to red and -ve to -ve/black to black etc..), it will spin anticlockwise when pushed on the spinner.

Success with glow engines in my opinion is achieved with well charged batteries, roughly correct needle settings to begin with (that the manual should give you but if not, try 2 turns out from fully in on both needles), fresh quality fuel, new fuel tubing, an electric starter and spinner, a quality glow plug (with a spare at the ready) e.g and OS 8 or Enya 3, a quality glow start (preferably the grip type), a quality prop that has white painted tips front and back (I use grey Graupner ones and have to paint them myself), a clean tank interior and a secured model or test bench. 

Good luck and be careful, I still have all my bits and bobs so it is possible to teach yourself without bloodshed. Have someone (Dad maybe..?) with you throughout.

[Shaun Flint]

yes it has been run before not by my dad but by the guy he bought it off

[perttime]

""
i am building a spitfire for a school project(but it is electric)
""

You do know that electrics can bite too? When the battery is connected, a 'leccy plane should be treated as if the prop were turning at full power.

[Tim Mackey]

Actually they keep biting even harder when you stick your bits in them - unlike an IC which will ususally stall and stop.