Irvine Tutor 40 Mk2 ARTF

[John Roberts 9]

After a fair bit of deliberation I have just ordered an Irvine Tutor 40 Trainer. My first choice was the WOT Trainer but this seems to be unavailable atm so I opted for my close second choice instead.

 

From what I have researched the Irvine seems a pretty straightforward build and I do have a fair bit of experience (albeit long out of date now) of building model aircraft. Neverthess, I would welcome any practical advice from anyone who has actually built one. Particularly whether there are any recommended upgrades or improvements that I ought to incorporate during the build rather than trying to retro fit later?

 

Things I had in mind were undercarriage strengthening or nylon "shear" bolts to minimise damage from the inevitable heavy landings and also control surface linkages. I am not sure if it applies to the Irvine but many of the ARTF models seem to have relatively poor quality linkages that can be greatly improved by using snakes instead.

 

Any other construction hints & tips gratefully received.

 

Thank you.

Edited By John Roberts 9 on 24/08/2011 13:48:40

[Ian Jones]

As far as I can see the Tutor40 II still has wire torque main undercarraige - no need to change anything there. They are meant to bend on a heavy landing so just bend them straight again if necessary.

 

Make sure that your instructor does not allow you to attempt a landing until you have learned to flare it over the strip then abort it first (applies to all aircraft not just this one & not just trainers). That way you will end up able to make half decent flared landings and have not have touble with the undercarraige.

 

If anyone suggests converting to a tail dragger, ignore them. Too many people have done this then spent decades afterwards avoiding tricycle undercarraiges and some very nice aeroplanes.

 

Read and follow the instructions, if they are anything like those that came with my original T40 they are excellent.

 

After 8 years I still have mine, the covering is tatty, it's been bashed and repaired, used for airborne video, bombing and most recently on skis. It still flies great and has it's orginal undercarraige legs (and wheels if I ever put them back on).

It's a good choice and with a little care will last you for years.

[John Roberts 9]

Thanks Ian your positive words are encouraging - it sounds like I might have made a reasonable choice with the Irvine.

 

Cheers.

 

[NigelH]

When I built the original Tutor 40 a few years ago, I discovered a couple of things that may be helpful.

 

It was my first ARTF and I followed the manual and used the suggested epoxy to joing the wings. MIstake. I forget which it was but they said either five minute or ten minute epoxy. If it still says that, ignore it. In my opinion, you need something like twenty or thirty minute or you may end up not getting it perfect.

 

This guy at the field had 'built loads of them'. I had the NIMH under tank but he told me to move it into the radio bay, I followed his advice. Mistake. I had an OS 46LA on the front and still needed weight up front, even aftter I'd put the NIHM back under the tank.

 

My experiences. Yours may differ

 

[John Roberts 9]

Ok Nigel, thanks for those tips.

 

Until the model and associated goodies arrive from Steve Webb I am not sure what sort of epoxy will be in the box - I just asked them to send me the adhesives required to complete the build.

 

I guess that its not a big problem to get a different sort of epoxy if the super-fast-setting stuff turns up!

 

Thanks.

[simon barr]

I haven't seen the new version, but the old Tutor 40 flew very well... I have taught three or four people to fly with them.

As Nigel says, use a slow setting epoxy to join the wings to give you time to align them properly, and there is nothing wrong with placing the battery under the tank in order to balance the model.

Lovely model, hope you enjoy it.

[NigelH]

Ten minutes sounds like a lot of time until you're trying to glue a wing together or tail feathers onto the fuselage By the time you've got it together, jiggled it around, wiped off the excess, done all that again, it's starting to harden and not wanting to move.

 

Do a dry fit first to be sure that the when you have glue on it is going to go together,

Wrap some masking tape around the wings at the roots to avoid it going everywhere, although it probably still will Don't overlap the edges though or they will not go together properly. Have your tape or whatever you're holding the two panels together cut ready so that you can just apply them without delay.

 

Once the glue is sufficiently set, peel back the tape and look for any gaps between the wings. Fil those with more expoxy. A solvent such as meths should desolve the excess epoxy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[John Roberts 9]

All these positive endorsements are making me impatient to get on with it now but I think it might be friday or even next monday before the big brown box turns up!

 

It is probably 10 years since I last constructed a model and I had forgotten about the joys of joining wings together with fast setting glue, glass fibre bandages and the like.

 

Thanks for the tips Nigel, despite my best endeavours to be neat, tidy & careful I will doubtless end up with epoxy in my ears, on my hair and up my nostrils.........and I can't wait

 

 

[John Tee]

Hi.

 

no-one has mentioned it but none of the kits/artf I've done have come with glue so be prepared to buy some in.

 

John

[NigelH]

Lol. Wait until you're doing another model where you need to CA some tail feathers on. It can look like a great job until you turn the model around

 

I always mix too much epoxy. Apart the last time that I glued some wings together. Another reason to buy the slow stuff

 

[NigelH]

Posted by John Tee on 24/08/2011 19:44:14:

Hi.

 

no-one has mentioned it but none of the kits/artf I've done have come with glue so be prepared to buy some in.

 

John

 

Good point but John said that he's ordered the glue.

 

[John Roberts 9]

Thanks for the reminder about adhesives not being included in most ARTF kits.

 

Fortunately I had noticed this in the "small print" on the web site blurb about the kit and so I (rather vaguely it must be said) asked the shop to include "whatever glue will be necessary"...........................but who knows what they will send . I am pretty sure that Webbies will send the right stuff.........or is that naive?

 

Anyway, its only a phone call to get some more sent if I don't like what arrives in the post .

 

Cheers.

 

 

[John Tee]

Missed that bit but saw could order more if the wrong type was sent. must wake up.

 

john