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ARTF Riot chat thread


Olly P
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There will always be a bit of play in control surfaces. Another thought; on the Z bends, you could try sliding some heat shrink tube on to effectively make the rods thicker (without heating it!!) or any other thin tube, but that is likely to be a pain to slide through the hole on the servo output arm. I'll have a look at my Riot, and come back if I can throw any more light on it.

Have you flown it yet? It may be fine. And how movement is there at the outer edges of the control surfaces? The airflow over the surfaces will center them to some degree.

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Daniel, me again!! I've just looked at my Riot and there is virtually no slop in the links. Possibly the easiest way to resolve it it to put new servo out arms on. The kit may have spares but if not they are readily available. Take the old ones to a model shop to make sure you get the right size. And check the holes are smaller, otherwise you'll have the same problem!

Easier than that, try taking the output arms off, and put the control rods into the outer holes (mine are in the middle holes as bought) the outer holes might be tighter. Also look carefull at the control surface end - is that all ok?

Cheers.

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Hi all,I have had the Riot for a few months now and find it as most do a bit tame,my mates wot4 e is much faster but spares are his major problem,ive rebuilt the Riot twice due to pilot error,(inverted 10ft off the ground coming towards me and a brain freeze) in all honesty i think the Riot was a great choice as its tough,you have to make a few mods but nothing you wouldnt do to most models.

I have changed the tiny bolts holding the wheels on to larger diameter,disconnected the lights as there useless,welded the uc struts together and fixed to the fuse with larger screws and redrilled for better spread,set full throws on all surfaces,changed the prop to a apc version and will experiment with the sizes.

On the original 850kv motor i have had to replace one for siezed bearing and the second for sloppy bearing so have now installed this Turnigy D3536/9 910KV Brushless Outrunner Motor *

It was an easy fit as there are three screw that hold the motor only a fourth to drill and put in.

hopeing to fly today,will let you know.......

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Hey Twister, very interesting mods - I might try some. Last time I was flying my Riot, there very nearly was one (a riot!) as I decided to take my eyes off my model and watch a club mate land his Spitfire... I then went back to my Riot which by now was about 20 feet from us in the pit area, coming straight at us and at 90 degrees to the ground!!! I just managed not to kill anyone and thumped the poor Riot into our landing strip. I don't recommend this style of flying it but I've finally discovered some interesting stunts it can do!

The fuz was broken in three places but everything else survived. It did resemble a banana (!) but now a mate has fixed it. Remarkably, it flies just like before. Yes, those silly wheel bolts are too small and bend to easily. I'll be interested to know how you get on with the Turnigy motor. Are you up-grading the ESC? I think with a little more "oomph" under the bonnet, this model could be a little cracker. As it stands it's a great trainer and relaxing evening flyer, and flies very docile and slow in calm conditions.

Twister, are you in the UK? If so, well done for finding somewhere without rain! I'm in Cornwall and I think it's the monsoon season....

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I had a fly today and can report the Riot has a much better performance all round with near vertical ability (it was windy)

standard size prop and 60A ESC (no smoke or fire)

still felt it could do more but had been flying the Jamara Roo and it was a bit like getting out a ferrari and into a fiat 500.

next job to take out the front weight.

anyone tried this yet?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all, today took the Riot out, it has has two flights from new, even bought a couple of extra batteries for it as it flew so nice, connected everything up ( even made the effort and connected the tip LED'S)

so i was really fed up when after connecting everything up one of the ailerons did not work, checked everything, damn servo had just given up, no warning, no knocks, no bad landings just stopped working .

Is it worth sending the servo to Century and asking for a replacement ? Or do you think it will be easier in the long run to just fit another servo?

I would have thought that asking two flights from something that cost £139.00 should last longer than two flights, any thoughts ?

Regards

Chris C.

P.S. it is a brilliant aeroplane, just seems to be let down by very cheap servo's.

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Hi Chris,sorry you've got problems,i changed my servos after 30 flights or so because one was giving me problems and i had a couple of quality ones hanging about.have you checked the servo when bypassing the little pcb as i've heard they can be temprimental,failing that i would give Century a buzz as i've found them very helpful

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

What can I say. I bought myself a Riot before I went away for Xmas. But on unboxing to start the assembly 7 days later, I find that the metal rod that joins the two halves of the elevator is binding against the stabiliser. The rudder also binds up against the tail end of the fuselage quite heavily, plus, the rudder is 2mm off centre compared to the tail!! That means that when I try to install it, the tail wheel sits 20 degrees off line with the fuse when the rudder is straight!!!

The servos do look cheap and cheerful, and one aileron servo appeared to be jammed, but moved ok when I powered up to bind a new reciever and set up the failsafe.

Also part of one side decal is peeling at the front. Sorted it with double sided tape.

As this will be my trainer plane, all this malarkey is pretty disappointing. I had a sort of go back in the so called summer, but never got to fly anything for more than 2 mins. All my solo efforts turned into lawn darts.

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Sorry guys been away, John,if i remember it took a tug to break free but i tied a wire on first to pull back through,

Chuck,it seems the wire hasnt been bent to the right offset to the rudder,also the rudder being out of line to the fuse is the same as my first one but my last one was fine,only option is to reglue the hinges in line.

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Hi Twister, yes I realise that I could have bent the tail wheel wire to suit, although it was perfectly straignt in itself. The irony is that I bought this even though I've proved I can build a scratcher that flies without issues, even though I can't fly it properly myself. :D But I dropped the tail and rudder assemly into the shop today, and they will get me a replacement ASP. Weather is terrible at the mo, so no worries.

The prop is a bit slack on the collet too, as mentioned by others. So I picked up an APC version, which is too shallow for the new style sipinner mount, so I need to either get a different collet, or, make up a 20mm dia 2mm thick spacer. Not my lucky day.

I'll see if I can build myself a tiny indoor trainer. I have balsa, 3mm and 6mm foam.

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Hi Chuck, i had a look for my old tail wheel which you could of had but cant place it. My motor seized and was replaced then the new one seized and i swapped it for a more powerful motor,check my old posts.

I know what you mean with the weather, I just got one of these.http://www.brchobbies.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_167&products_id=755

yet to be built but hopefully great inbetween showers or indoor.

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Only just seen this thread. I bought my Riot at Cosford from Inwoods and so far I must have had around 200 flights with it in all winds. As I like to do a few touch and goes each flight that could be about 800 landings. I love it.

Mods? It went together really quickly. I was 'just looking' the evening I got it and before I knew it, it was assembled. I set it up as per instructions and, as others have said it's very mild.

1: I couldn't get my 2200 3S LiPos into the battery box because they'd already got Velcro attached for other models and the box is simply too shallow. So I removed the lid, added Velcro to the bottom and a couple of Velcro straps and it's been like that since.

2: It wouldn't spin, so I removed the steel weight (replaced with a bit of wood to support the foam) and moved the battery back as far as possible and it spins like a good 'un. I also increased all the control throws and it's now easily capable of the 'B' schedule - if only I could perform them skillfully enough to pass

3: With all the landings I do the 3mm bolts acting as axles eventually bent and I replaced them with high tensile cap heads and have had no further trouble.

I think that's about it.

Duration is about 8 minutes of aerobatic flight with 2200 3S batteries and 10 minutes with the 2650s I usually use. It's my model of choice if it's blowing hard and flying backwards is fun. It still has the original servos, motor, speed controller and prop. I could do with a bit more zip and the airframe would easily carry a bit more because it's so sturdy. It's also the model I put in the car every time I go flying.

Geoff

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Posted by Twister on 31/12/2012 15:59:39:

Hi Chuck, i had a look for my old tail wheel which you could of had but cant place it. My motor seized and was replaced then the new one seized and i swapped it for a more powerful motor,check my old posts.

I know what you mean with the weather, I just got one of these.http://www.brchobbies.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_167&products_id=755

yet to be built but hopefully great inbetween showers or indoor.

Crikey! That's well priced for a plug and play! All that gear included for less than £70, very nice.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fitted the replacement tail and rudder, so that's sorted. No one turned up at the flying field who could train me last Sunday. ( excessively misty and got worse ) But now I've found one servo is borked! It was locked when not powered up, but moved and allowed the ailerons to be centralised. But now the action is reduced and inconsistent. Feels like gears are partly damaged. :¬(

LMS is ordering a replacement.

 

Plus I've noticed that the elevator halves aren't exactly in line.

Edited By Chuck Plains on 11/01/2013 19:14:03

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  • 2 weeks later...

I may get to fly my Riot for the first time later today, but the ESC is beeping continuously as soon as I power it up. Freshly charged Lipo or partly charged, makes no difference. I've changed nothing since prepping it for flight two weekends ago. I need to center the replacement servo so that I can set up the ailerons.

Strange, the beeping has gone since I removed all the servo connections to the receiver and reconnected just the esc.

I am not particularly happy about this toy plane. £132 spent, and two issues before I even get off the ground. Plus, there is no guide to setting up the ESC. I don't really trust factory settings until I've verified them myself.

Curses. sad

 

Ironically, this is just confirming my preference to build stuff myself.

Edited By Chuck Plains on 20/01/2013 10:52:58

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Flew my Riot today, my first sustained flight of any plane. Another club member took her up for me and then I took the sticks. Seemed to work just like the Easyfly3 sim that I've used a few times, though that shows a plane that is very similar to a Seagull Boomerang. Mark said it flew nicely and he put in a few stunts etc. But both she,and I, flew well. Well, I flew anyway. And she went back in the car in one piece. So in more than one respect I'm well pleased.

BUT, the ESC is not treating the lipos too well. He landed after she went into cruise mode, and the pack was checked showing 0% !!!!!!! And after my flight of about 5 mins plus about 1 min with Mark at either end, the lipo showed 5%! And that's without going into cruise mode! That's too low for comfort, especiallr for a beginner like me!! So now I have to email Century fo advice about their ESC settings. I've seen some factory settings mentioned online when I was searching for set up info on their site. But I want to set it up myself. I've already set up a JR brushed motor ESC which is now installed in an EASY Pidgeon. It was relatively basic, but you just follow the bleeps.

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Hi

Mine had it's 1st flights today - fine for us as a trainer / follow-on

Niggles:

> When 1st arrived rudder was poorly hinged but replaced immediately by Century UK

>The plasic wheel bolts/axels are way too weak

>The motor sometimes just stutters and sometimes spins ok

This worries me and I'd be grateful for advice about this

Ken

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