Rob Lewis Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 Cheers for all your help 35. I'm very pleased with the result, maybe a little bit too much overspray between the colours, but not bad for my first go at spraying a camo pattern. Well shes drying in the house with sun pouring in through the window and its had around 24 hours so probably good to go. It looks dry but wasn't sure if the emulsion need a cure time as opposed to just being touch dry. Although i guess the coat is really thin so a shorter drying time can be used. Working lates all this week, so probably won't get much done until the weekend, but shes coming on nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Looking fantastic! As you say it will mark very very easily until you get the Poly C on. Fortunately few warbirds are pristine! 24 hours should be sufficient drying time. I might be tempted to try handling the parts with plastic bags or disposable gloves. I think it's the grease in your fingers that makes the marks. Once the poly-c is on it will be much more robust. Ive not put clear coat over emulsion, I've relied on PolyC. I'd suggest you knock up a test piece to try first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 i use polyc ontop of my emusion paint finishes. two coats and its perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Lewis Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 When i said clearcoat i meant poly c. Will get a light coat on this evening. I tried using some thin cotton gloves i have but they marked as well. That said they had been lying around for years so could of had anything on them. At the moment i'm using paper towels but even then you have to be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Rob, where did you get the paint from in the end? Did B&Q/Homebase do the job for you? I didn't know you could use Poly C as fuelproofer either..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Tim (35MHz) your link doesn't seem to work......I can't get on your modelmarkings.com website either....is it just me or is there a problem do you know....?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Indeed, the retailers are clear that it is fuelproof, although I clean my Spit down at the field. A nice thin coat of PolyC first of all Rob, and let it dry. If you put on too much it will pool on the surface. The second coat can be thicker. Make sure you use a spraying mask! I found I had a PolyC cloud in the shed using the touch up gun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim C Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Hi no problem getting on **LINK**(from 2 locations) or with link as far as I can see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Thanks Tim...very odd...I can't access your site with my desktop (tried several browsers) but I can using my laptop even though it uses the same connection to t'internet........ Computers eh.......? Gotta love 'em...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu knowles Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Hi Guys, I have only just happened across this thread and I am intrigued by the use of emulsion paint. I have often read of various American modellers using 'latex' paint, which I take to be emulsion paint of one form or another. Just to spell it out, when usiing emulsion, do you mean vynil paint?, silk?, matt?? does it matter?? I have got to try this for myself soon. regards stu k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystar Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 This could well be the solution to the finish of my Sea Fury, but there are 2 things i don't understand..... First thinning the paint with Halfords Screen wash.........Why not just thin the paint with water? And second this question may make me seem a bit thick but i have been an ARTF man for many years and this is my first proper build...........so here goes. You all talk about Poly C, I have managed to work out that it is like Clear Cote, but what is it and were can i get it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim C Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Well, Yes you can use water, but the screenwash contain aditives which make the paint flow better when thinned and sprayed. I use a water based Ronseal Matt varnish from B&Q, but poly C is a water based clear acrylic used as a water based alternative for Epoxy and glassing from here **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Lewis Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 I got all the paints from B&Q in the end. The first guy i spoke to didn't know how to enter the NCS codes, but eventually found someone that did. £2.68 for a tester pot mixed to your colour can't be bad, and theres more than enough, i hardly made a dent in most of the tins. Stu, as far as i know the tester pots are matt emulsion. I don't think they offer different types as they are designed for testing the colour rather than the finish, but they are perfect for our use. Just sprayed some of the smaller parts with neat poly c, my airbrush is struggling, but it is doable. Even with the largest needle it blocks up every 10 mins or so, but not really a problem. May thin it slightly for the second coat after the insignia is added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystar Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Thank for that, Is it similar to the Delux Eze Kote that i have been told about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Right, a few questions answered.... Yep standard matt emulsion is what you want. It's worth paying for the premium brands as they seem to contain more pigment, and coverage is better. I think that the reason for the pre-mixed screen wash is twofold really. The main reason is that as it contains an alcohol - normally, I think, ethanol these days it evaporates much quicker than plain water which speeds drying times and helps you keep a better finish. I think the other reason may be that water and ethanol [screenwash] is a better solvent than pure water, and this makes mixing the paint much easier. PolyC is similar but different to EzeKote. I've used both. I know that PolyC makes a clear statement that it is fuel proof. This is not always the case with other Polyurethane varnishes that could be used instead.. One comment I would make is that an airframe fuelproofed with PolyC will stain a bit if fuel spills on it, or oil residue flows over it. It's not too bad, and my opinion, given that warbirds are never pristine in real life, isn't an issue. I would still use Clearcoat or an epoxy proofer for the firewall etc. I'd be interested to know if anyone here has tried one of the real fuel proofing products over emulsion and PollyC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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