Retract Choice

[Mike E]

Hi, I have a Swallow Pattern ship and thinking of converting to retacts.

I have a retract servo so the obvious choice is a mechanical set but could go air or electric.

I would be grateful for recommendations on type / make of units for this 9lb model which are going to be robust and reliable

Many thanks

Mike

Edited By Mike E on 14/07/2012 18:10:51

[Bob Cotsford]

I would recommend you try to avoid Irvine branded units! I've got them in my Tornado and have regular problems with the leg twisting in the plastic retract pivot block. I've got some Dave Brown units from America that seem much better made and have a good reputation.

[Eamonn Fahey]

Lots of choice in Hobby King but only in the International Warehouse

[Mike E]

Thanks for the advice

Mike e

[Brian Cooper]

I can only comment from experience but I have been playing with retracts for a few decades --- and I have used several different types.

There is a lot of nonsense (fear) told about mechanical retracts but they are probably the most basic and reliable units available. If a proper retract servo is used, the servo travels 170 degrees and switches itself off. It is really easy. And contrary to the perceived wisdom (fear again) you do not need a separate battery for the servo. Naturally, you can fit one, but it is really just extra weight to carry around.

Air operated retracts are probably the most unreliable units ever to be fitted to our models. They are fussy things which rely on compressed air to make them work and, very often (too often), the air leaks out during a flight, usually caused by engine vibration on an air valve. With air up/ spring down systems this merely means the wheels begin to droop half way through your flight.

The worst ones are the air up/ air down types because you never know if you have got a problem – or enough air pressure left -- until you want the wheels down. And if there has been a leak, a wheel (maybe all of them) will stay up and will refuse to come down.

Electric retracts are brilliant. There are no fiddly linkages to set-up, or air tanks, plumbing, or valves to worry about. You just fit them and plug them in --- and they work. The only drawback is the cost.

Have fun.

B.C.

[Alan Cantwell]

Brian, totally disagree with the dont use a separate battery bit, i too have been playing with retracts for years--about 40 of them, and the separate battery is a MUST, but i may say here, that i would consider using one battery, if the model has good oleos fitted, if the wire ones bend, they WILL catch the retract well, and stall out, this will drain a battery quicker than a sink drains water, we all have our views, and most of what you say is bang on, but not this bit

[Reno Racer]

From my experience:

Mechanical retracts are OK, once you have managed to set them up properly to lock up and down and provide a seperate battery. The linkage, of course, takes up space and it really only works on a 1 peice wing.

Air retracts are OK, but I always seemed to have a leak somewhere. Air up/Spring down are best, so that at least if you have a leak, the retracts spring down. Downside is airlines, tank, refil pump, and lots of potential leaks, especially if yu need to disconect the wing, or have 2 piece wings. Also, personaly, i'm not a fan of retracts that snap up and down so quickly.

 

Electric retracts are a god send. I have tried just about all brands. The HK plastic ones are OK, but you get what you pay for. In my 8.5lbs Corsair I have some 46 sized 100 degree angle rotating retracts from EFlite. All alloy, they are not cheap, although cheaper than an air set, but they are robust and work like clockwork.

I also have a set of DSR 46 size trike electric retracts in my EDF 90mm Sniper, they too are really good, fautless and robust, but requires more wiring with a seperate controller and lipo and they require a larger than standard retract mount (wider), which might not fit all models (in fact hardly fits any models without modification).

 

Chris

Edited By Christian Ackroyd on 21/07/2012 09:52:01