Delta Foxtrot Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Peter, I am well into building my port wing. I wondered how you tackled the bend required in the top spar due the thickness tapering. Did you bother to bend the spar to fit or just glue and hold it down. I am wary about building stress into the wing,but logically the shear webs and The rest of the D box will prevent the to soar from distorting the wing when it is removed from the board. Regards David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 No problem, just bend it down and pin it in place. The bend is pretty gentle anyway. Providing you keep the whole wing pinned down until all the sheet and webs are in place nothing will move the structure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Thanks Peter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Just a couple of photos showing the progress of my CAP 20L build. I parked this build last year, but came back to it a couple of months ago. Progress paced by only having an hour or so in the evenings due the unfortunate requirement to have to work for a living, but I should get this finished in the not too distant future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Very neat looking job.. I like the inverted pic, shows how aerobatic it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Peter, I am just about to assemble the horizontal stab and elevator and I wondered if the elevator halves are drilled to accept the joiner through the middle of their thickness or if the joiner is just sunk into the surface on the lower surface? I have previously used CF tubes or ply to do the job, but I would like to build as plan. Regards David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 26, 2015 Author Share Posted August 26, 2015 I just drlll into the thickness witha 2 mm drill. Then I make a groove from the hole to the end of the elevator. The elevators are joined after covering and as they are hinged. I apply Aliphatic resin glue into the hole and the groove. THis is perfectly adequate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Thanks Peter. So you build sequence is something like: Make holes in elevator halves and a channel in the leading edge for the wire joiner. Slot the stab and elevator halves for hinges. shape the leading and trailing edges cover Fit hinges and joiner with stab and elevator assembly on a flat surface. This means that the block that sits on top of the tail must either be fitted afterwards or it is slotted to the rear of the fuselage to allow the tail plane to be slid in, then backfilled. I assume that the fuselage block is shaped before fitting the tailplane? I was going to use epoxy for the wire joiner, but I like the aliphatic resin suggestion as there is less change of making a mess and winding up with hard adhesive where I do not want it. I had no idea aliphatic would give a good strength joint between piano wire and balsa, but I guess it is not really under much load it is just there to prevent the joiner from sliding out. I am enjoying the build, the fuselage is looking good and it should not take too much more effort to finish, but I am only managing an hour or so in the weekday evenings. I quite like the slow paced approach to building this as it gives me a lot of time to think about the next step during the day. thanks again dave Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 26/08/2015 12:52:10 Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 26/08/2015 12:53:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 26, 2015 Author Share Posted August 26, 2015 Glue tailplane to the fuselage after covering it. NOTE, Remove film from glue areas. GLue on the fin. and the fin fairing blocks.also already covered. Hinge elevators and rudder ad alfready described. Hope that clearsit up. Edited By Peter Miller on 26/08/2015 18:04:37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Thanks Peter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Peter, I can't see any info on the wing root fillets on the plan and I think I can see these on your photos. I like fillets, apart from the small aerodynamic benefit, they look good. What width is your fillet at the wing trailing edge? I assume that they are made in the usual way using thin ply on top of the wing and balsa to form the fillet and 1/16" ply piece behind the trailing edge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 I thought that Ihad drawn them on the plan. Unfortunately I do not have rthe original now. The construction is as you suggest. The fillet would be about 1" wide at the trailing edge.It is eyeball scale so a look at some pctures on Google should give you a rough scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Thanks Peter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Peter, Fillets are done. I am just making up the wheel spats and wondered how you retain the wheels. I assume that you used collets on both sides of each wheel as the axle appears to be slid through the spat and the wheel together, so no opportunity of soldering wheel fixings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 I never use collets. I hate the things. I think I just relied on the spat to hold the wheel on because I intended to remove them as soon as I had the photos. ON another model I developed a really neat idea.that I would suggest you use. Drill the outer hole in the spat to suit 8SWG brass tube and cut a short length of tube. You can then slide the tube over the wire and through the hole and solder that to the axle. Works well and is very neat and easy to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Thanks for the reply Peter! I agree with your view on collets, if I use them I solder them on. If I have understood your brass tube idea, I fit the wheel inside the spat and then slide the piano wire axle through these and then insert the brass tube through the outer spat hole and solder where the tube and wire exit the spat. I guess I could tin the axle to get a more extensive soldered joint. What about the other side of the wheel, or do you mean use the brass tube on both inner and outer sides of the wheel? It does sound like a good idea, but I would like make sure I understand before cracking on with it. I am really enjoying the build and I am glad that I returned to it after having a few issues with the wing build last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 I just use some wire wrapped round on the inside of the wheel and soldered. use a washer if you want to get fancy! . AS you say, slide the axle through and then slide the tube through the spat outer surface. Yes, tinning it would be a good idea. I probaly did that. It is some time ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Thanks Peter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Beavis Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Hello Peter, I have just started the Cap 20L. I have read some discussion about control surface flutter. Do you think snakes contribute to this? Is there any advantage to be had by using pushrods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 No, Just make very sure that they are stiff at the oultets. I had no problems with flutter and I really used to throw the model round.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Peter, I am well on with the job of covering the CAP and was wondering if you could point me in the direction of the decals you have on yours. I plan to make up some waterside decals and it would be good to find some files for the picture images. What fonts did you use for the fuselage lettering and registration? David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 I got them done by one of the many suppliers on Ebay I just selected a suitable looking font from their selection It was probably Aerial. Sorry I can't be more helpful. I would suggest you contact Tim at Model Markings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Ok thanks Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Peter, Thanks for your advice on this build. I am pleased that I came back to finish this after parking it last year, the end result looks good and I have learned quite a bit during this build. I have only a few small jobs to do before test flying can start and for me test flying something I have built myself is as good as it gets. I may redo the leg fairings to hide the clamps, for now they are left accessible to allow me to remove the spats if they struggle to cope with our field. Here are a few pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 That looks very smart. I took the spats off as soon as I had the flying pictures. They were removed from the full size so still scale, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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