Joe Beavis

Many thanks everybody, I will be better informed when shopping

Are there any servos, motors, or ESCs available that are NOT made in China - and if so where can they be obtained?

I would suggest this is exactly what aeromodelling does NOT need!

I have motorised a West Wings Lancer 100" glider that is quite pleasant. If I were doing it again, I would make sure I got my battery further back, as I needed a touch of tail weight. I would also boost the wing joiners - after a very cautious loop they were a bit bent! I have also built the WW RF 4 - quite nice, but a bit light. But have West Wings gone?

I am guessing that the thread is M3 ish, and the screwhead socket is now in less than new condition. I would favour Dremelling a new screw slot, preferably inline with the arm - you may be able to save it, select a screwdriver with the widest blade that will fit, grind it if necessary to really fit the slot, and apply steadily increasing torque. If you can hold it in the vice, that's good. If it is Loctite, then any heat will help. Also, if it is Loctite, I would not use an impact driver. It yields best to steady and overwhelming force! Good luck!

I have encountered the 'rubbery' mix problem with Rapid Araldite - that performed perfectly before and also later. I also put it down to a mixing error. There can be a temptation to mix too small a quantitiy to minimise waste. Sometimes at the beginning of a 'squeeze', a bubble can upset the judgement of quantity, and if the mix is small. this can be critical. If the the tubes are stored in the same attitude (caps up) at no less than normal room temperature, and you don't attempt to mix less than, say a 15mm 'stripe' of each jollop, mix REALLY well, success should reward your efforts. Martin is right, don't push your luck regarding temperature while curing.

When describing the power system of their model, most people give details of the battery, ESC, motor and prop. All very important - but the really interesting figure is the static thrust, which is what it is all about, and hardly anyone mentions. It is not hard to measure (but be careful!), and can be very illuminating when choosing props.

Apart from the pangs of loss, a marooned model is a worry because it is litter. If you can't get a spritely soul to climb the tree to pole-poking height, then all I can suggest is that you return frequently to the scene to see what has blown down, especially the battery. I expect there will be some wild weather coming soon - you may be lucky. I have had a model regurgitated by a tree after several weeks. PS KC types faster than I do! Edited By Joe Beavis on 11/10/2019 22:12:53

Thank you everyone for your responses and opinions. Since it has disappeared from the usual shops, I wrongly assumed that Creocote had gone the way of Creosote. However, a bit of button pressing reveals stock at Tool Station, so that is where I am going. Thanks again.

However laudable the reasons for the disappearance of creasote, it can present a difficulty for those of us with a traditional view of shed preservation. The only water-based treatment I have used did not convince me, and I can see even now some similar jollop washing off a neighbour's fence. What do others do to protect the vital sanctuary?

I use a small steam iron I bought from Asda for £2-67 - I don't use the steam! It is quite satisfactory, but my conscience pricks me every time I use it, as at that price it must have been made by slaves.

Thank you all for your responses, I shall go about my shopping better informed. From your various experiences, it does appear to be a lottery, though. Thanks, Joe

My chargers lead a very cossetted life - they have their own boxes, they are kept in a comfortable temperature, seldom called upon to actually charge a battery, and then never at more than 1 C, yet half my charging capacity has given up the ghost. The newer of my two Sigma singles has died, and also one side of my Prophet Sport Duo. Needless to say they are all out of guarantee. Can anyone suggest a charger with say, four channels that might actually last? This hobby must produce more than its share of waste electrical equipment, and I hate to add to it.

The system I use when doing elecric conversions is this - I make a birch ply 'coffin' (rear open) to contain the battery (the whole length of it). Leave a little space inside all round (4-5 mm) for the inevitable battery size variation and a spot of velcro. Mount the motor on the front of the box with a REALLY robust ply plate, preferably with blind nuts. Ensure that the inside of the box is free of things like bolt ends This coffin should be arranged to pass through F1 and F2 and well attached to both. The advantages are - the motor mounting is really secure. To tune the CoG, you can slide the battery for and aft in its coffin (sorry about the terminology!), and should the worst happen, the battery is protected all round unless you have a severe crash going backwards! In a big crash - and I've had a few - the coffin, complete with motor and probably spinner and cowling , with F1 and F2, tends to separate from the rest of the fus, but remains as a unit and can be reattached to the reassembled debris. I don't know the structure of the Mam'selle, but I am sure you can adjust the concept to harmonise weightwise.

The cutters in Ron Gray's post look good. Felco also make excellent cable cutters. You will never regret having the proper tool, as they also cut piano wire more cleanly than side cutters.

Many thanks, Attilio Problem sorted! Regards, Joe

Thanks Keiran, I forgot to mention that the battery was a fully charged 4 cell. I will try disabling the 'battery fail-safe' function, just in case it is being prematurely triggered.

I was just checking the failsafe on a newly built model, and found that when I turned off the transmitter, the motor rpm dropped by approx half, but didn't stop. The motor is a new Quantum 55, the ESC ia a new Dynamic 80amp, and the transmitter is my faithful Futaba T6J. I have checked that the ESC is at default settings, and set the throttle range, the throttle trim and subtrim are zeroed. I must be missing something basic - any suggestions, please?

I think you have done the best you can on that rule, Gary. Isolated patches of rust like that can go so deep! People have mentioned digital calipers. Though I normally despise tools that need a battery, sorry, cell to work, I have to admit they are a revelation, and will reliably split a thou. But to split a hair, calipers they are, verniers they are not!

The main mark appears to be corrosion. Since this very nice rule is so deeply engraved, you can afford to use a medium carborundum stone on it to remove the marks. Don't use emery cloth, as it will tend to fall into the engraved lines and make them less distinct. And when all is bright, just don't let it get rusty! I have some old rules which were so dull they were hard to read. Wiping them over with white paint to fill the lines was a complete cure.

I have used a 4" dia cabinet fan with a length of flexible ducting led out through the wall for very effective local fume extraction. Remember that air out needs air in! I know that some people are affected by the merest whiff of CA, but this might serve for the borderline cases - it is cold outside at the momen for outdoor CA work! Joe Beavis

Just in passing - I think the screws which attach domestic lighting switches the their mounts are M3.5.

If it happens again, since the hole goes right through you can drill from the other side with a tapping size drill and the bolt remnant will usually spin out under the influence of the drill. Never try and drill out broken bolts or studs freehand, always on a pillar drill or preferably a milling machine - more rigid and allows more accurate centring. You did well to get that one out!

All this switch stuff is too clever for me - I drilled two holes in the bezel of my transmitter, so that an 'R' clip (made from a coathanger) passes across in front of the throttle. This allows testing of all controls EXCEPT the throttle. I carry the model out, remove the pin, fly the model, and as I go to fetch the wreckage I replace the pin, which hangs on a string. The beauty of this system is that everybody else can see that my throttle is safe from yards away.

If there should have to be some kind of registration then membership of the BMFA is already halfway there. To insist that all models carry the member's number does not seem unreasonable. Registration of all models individually, as I believe the Americans want would be ludicrous. Of course, once again it would be the responsible people who have to put up with the inconvenience, while the mischief-makers carry on as they wish, but that is what happens with most regulation.