Martin Harris - Moderator Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Posted by Chuck Plains on 13/02/2013 07:49:32: Hmm, my plastic trunking is not square after all. I'll probably have to take it into work and gently machine one face to make the 90 deg correct. Machining plastic can be a pain as it flexes against the cutter and is hard to control. I suppose the idea of recycling the scrap trunking is very laudable but if you have machining facilities, wouldn't it be better to make something for the purpose from a more stable material? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncebounce crunch Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 I have come across an old tip for you Chuck Plains While viewing the plans of a model you intend to build, spill half your beer all over it by accident, jump up and yell "ahh expletitive ahh" shake plan vigourously and knock a fuselage of another model off your wall rack so as to snap off tail section and puncture the side of the fuselage. you see that way you will have something else to do when bored. gee my tips are good. Edited By bouncebouncecrunch on 13/02/2013 09:21:32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broken Prop Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 ROFL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncebounce crunch Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 I am really glad you see this as funny Peter, when this happens to you i will snigger and ask if you can see through the plan to the reverse side. meanwhile a model plan that will be smelling like the carpet from an old pub is hanging up to dry in the shed i hope the wrinkles disappear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broken Prop Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 BBC, try to regard the wrinkles as honourable battle scars. Just think of the memories that will come flooding back, when later on, you try to open up the hardened, shrunken and distorted plan for repair purposes........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben goodfellow 1 Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 for builing tapering chord and thickness wings i find a certain aerofoil design programme invaluable .building tabs lightening holes and any arrangement of spars, le/te can be added and i know its cheating a bit but for plans with just rootand tip ribs it makes things sooooooooooooooo easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Plains Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 Posted by bouncebouncecrunch on 13/02/2013 09:19:54: I have come across an old tip for you Chuck Plains While viewing the plans of a model you intend to build, spill half your beer all over it by accident, jump up and yell "ahh expletitive ahh" shake plan vigourously and knock a fuselage of another model off your wall rack so as to snap off tail section and puncture the side of the fuselage. you see that way you will have something else to do when bored. gee my tips are good. Edited By bouncebouncecrunch on 13/02/2013 09:21:32 Sounds entirely normal to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Plains Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 I cut up and discarded all my credit cards more than 2 years ago and shan't be applying for more unless I win the lottery big style. But recently my Paypal ability to purchase online has returned, causing immediate lack of self control. So, yes, I may well end up with the SLEC jig next month. As appropriately shaped scrap (ally or plastic) material at work is not currently available. Though I do have a fair handfull of small scrap offcuts and trimmings for odd jobs in the future. Actually, I just realized that I could machine some 90deg angles from MDF, and coat the faces with glue protection film. Crikey, a 2ft square offcut of 15mm MDF would give me a couple of dozen of them! I have some epoxy glass sheet (offcuts once again) for small templates, but I also have some discarded packing from our metal suppliers, in the form of ally skinned plastic sheet. Perfect for long life templates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Plains Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 I found the little plane that I built from a plan!! Go-Electric Here's my version. Tis merely a chuck plane. Just t osee what I could do. 15" span, made from 3mm foam insulation. Actually it flies nicely. And it's a 'money' plane too, as it has two 1p pieces in the cockpit to achieve a good CG, plus a small self tapped wedged in the nose to finalise the balance. Wings were under cambered by clamping them to a spaghetti jar with elastic bands and filling the jar with boiling water. Then removing the bands 5 mins after the jar had fully heated up. (2 mins would probably be enough. The cockpit is just a piece of solid EPS foam. Edited By Chuck Plains on 15/05/2013 21:48:38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy.I Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 I've just started my first plan-build for around 35 years. The first thing I did was take the A0 plan to Staples to get it scanned to a PDF file, and bought three prints - two exact copies and a mirrored copy. I can now cut up one normal and one mirror image to build left and right components. For any parts that will fit on A4 I can just print off those parts from the scanned file. The original plan is archived away and I have the other print for reference as I build. Edited By Andy.I on 08/11/2013 16:44:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazza58 Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Hey Chuck, that looks like a Mini Mini Super....... Gazza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Plains Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Heh, yes, if I were to add a nose with a motor in it, it'd look just like one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Posted by Andy.I on 08/11/2013 16:27:45: I've just started my first plan-build for around 35 years. The first thing I did was take the A0 plan to Staples to get it scanned to a PDF file, and bought three prints - two exact copies and a mirrored copy. I can now cut up one normal and one mirror image to build left and right components. For any parts that will fit on A4 I can just print off those parts from the scanned file. The original plan is archived away and I have the other print for reference as I build. Edited By Andy.I on 08/11/2013 16:44:39 Didn't know Staples had big copiers - I've used a professional print shop to copy plans for larger models, then I use the PC printer to make further copies to cut up as templates. I think I paid around a tenner for two copies of the Eros plan (2 sheets), one normal opaque and one on semi-transparent draughting paper. For building I rely on pins, a steel tapemeasure and setsquares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Plains Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Have a look at lucubration.com/pdf-tile-printer . You can upload a max 10mb PDF there and get back a tiled version, which can then be printed on A4 sheets and assembled to your full size!! What a helpful website!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy.I Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 "For building I rely on pins, a steel tapemeasure and setsquares." I've discovered that you can accurately and repeatedly set equal rib spacing by cutting a rectangular block of wood with a bench saw, and then slicing it into two so that the smaller piece fits between the LE and main spar, and the larger between the main spar and TE. Then I use clamps to clamp across the rib and blocks to the previously glued rib. Just be careful to ensure there is no build-up of errors. I still have problems accurately and repeatedly cutting slots in the trailing edge to locate the ends of the ribs - I find myself having to rely too much on eyesight and dexterity for my liking, what with the spacing of the slot, and the width and depth. I would appreciate if anybody has any tips on how to automate this please? Edited By Andy.I on 19/11/2013 05:57:50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo565 Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Andy mark off the depth and distance between ribs and the place T/E in vise up to your depth mark and use a file to make the slots. I use a warding file and its spot on for 3/32 ribs,no messing around with saw or scalpel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 My method is slightly different to Jim's.... I use multiple hacksaw blades taped together with a crude wood handle -each blade cuts 1/32 so 2 blades for 1/16 and 3 blades for 3/32.Then I mark the spacing off from the plan onto the spar. A crude wood jig with a slot cut with the hacksaw blades limits the depth. Spar is held by hand it's the jig that is held in the vice. Jig is a piece of 1/2 inch softwood, say 3 inches wide by foot long, with another piece attached as a 'shelf' to support spar.Takes just a couple of minutes to notch both spars accurately.Edited By kc on 19/11/2013 11:30:53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 I didnt mention that the jig has just one slot - the spar is held by hand, a slot cut and then slid along to the next mark. This is the 3 hacksaw blade gadget.....a bolt and some tape holds them together. Note that new blades have more 'set' and cut a bit wider groove than worn blades. In the background is a handy 'pincushion' to store T pins- just foam. A heavy wood base would improve it. Edited By kc on 19/11/2013 12:31:50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy.I Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Thank you chaps, some useful information here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy.I Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Something else I've discovered rather useful are Lego blocks. They can be stacked up together to make blocks to keep things square. You can even drill small holes in them and pin them in place. My son hasn't noticed that I'm stealing from him yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Plains Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 All tips and tricks are very much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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