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42" Curtiss Hawk 75a Depron Scratch Build (1st )


Roy Mundy
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Hi Peter, welcome to the forum I am glad that you are enjoying the build.

I like you was inspired by Depron Daz and Electriflier who are both really amazing builders with depron, I followed their builds and decided to have a go myself. I am really enjoying the build and would certainly recommend giving it a go. If you decide to do a build blogg please feel free to post a link on here to your build, then we can all follow your progress, and help will be at hand should you need it.

I have built a few balsa models which I still enjoy building but I like the idea that you can build fairly big with depron and have a low cost power train keeping the costs down, and if you make a mistake it's only foam.

John, thanks for your comments and again post a link on here to your build as it would be great to follow your progress. It's great to suddenly see depron builds in progress I hope the trend continues.

i look forward to seeing your cutting tools for foam.

regards

Roy M

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Hi Roy M. When I was looking for a suitable plan to build from,by coincidence I too have the same issue of RCM&E as you with the Curtiss Hawk plan! The only drawback I can see building with Depron and the models being so light,is wether or not they can handle any kind of wind. I have a SE5a a friend built and passed on to me. It is made from depron,30"ws and flies on 2s lipo but I can only fly it on the calmest of days (a rarity in the UK) but when I do get to fly it, it's a real hoot!

Regards

Pete.

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Pete, Depron certainly favours larger models so you can build a bit of weight in, but that shouldn't stop you building a smaller plane and keeping for those calm balmy summer evenings. I have several small planes that I take when we go in the touring caravan during summer, and I've spent many a lovely evening buzzing around.

You could always blow the plans up slightly, to say 55" - 60" which is still manageable to transport, and yet will fly happily in a bit of wind.

My next Depron build will be a FW190 of 60" or thereabouts, 4s power, to go with my balsa built Spit and FMS Mustang. Then no doubt it will be Depron Hurricane and the Me 109 just to have the whole fleet, lol.

Go on, give it a bash, for the price you can't go wrong yes

Daz

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Me again. Is there an easy way to resize the formers when building from a plan meant as a balsa build to allow for the 3mm depron sheeting? Also,if one feels the need for extra intermediate formers to support the depron sheeting how do you determine the dimensions.(eg. Where the fuselage tapers towards the tail). I know it's probably a nooby question but I am a Depron noob! And please,no one suggest a CAD program.........I've only just mastered an abacus!

Regards

Pete.

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Pete, on my Vulcan and Valiant, I have a former every 3 to 4" except for the nose, but that is due to needing extra strength in that area where I pull the nose off to get to the flight battery. I may add an extra one in between formers at any stress areas. For wing rods or tubes where they pass through any formers/ribs should have ply plates around any holes to stop them elongating.

You may find that over the whole former circumference, you are only adding 1 - 1.5mm extra in width, so is it really worth worrying about? What thickness of balsa would you normally use, and subtract that from the thickness of the depron skin, and you'll find that it really won't be that noticeable. When I started cutting the formers for the Valiant, I just used the 3 view drawing lines as the final measurement for the fuz formers. Or of course you could just cut an extra mm of the whole circumference of each former.

I can't use CAD either, pen and paper still rules for me!

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry Lads, I will be getting back into this build very soon.

I have been really busy since Christmas with work and all of our Birthdays and also just got back from a skiing holiday. It's been a hectic 8 weeks. I have had some quality time with the family though 😀 please bear with me.

regards Roy

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Ok I'm getting back to this build, sorry to everyone for the delay .

I haven't done a great deal as I'm waiting for my poly c and cloth to arrive. I have clothed and WBPU the front cowl and given it a quick primer. I do have a couple of cloth creases should I cut these out and then refill ?

I have had to bring the motor forward by adding round cut outs, I am now ready to fit the motor and work out the C G

i do have another school project on the go , we are doing an interactive race night so I've been busy building horses, but I promise it won't distract my build lol.

thanks once again

regards

Roy M

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Looks cool Roy. You'll be amazed how much stronger it makes it for very little weight gain. Did you put a thin coat on the depron first? It helps the subsequent layers bond to it, and don't go on too thick at first, build it up with a few thin layers. I didn't and have brush strokes which were accentuated by me also applying the colour paints too thickly.

For curved areas, work from the centre out and if you start getting wrinklies, gently pull the cloth while 'stippling' the cloth with the brush. I picked that up from other Roy on his Sea Vixen and I've had no wrinklies in the cloth on the Bucc.

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Thanks Monz, I didn't give the depron a thin coat first, but it seems to have dried really well with no wrinkles. I did one half of the wing before dinner ..........as I was itching to give it a try ! Lol the other half is drying nicely.

i will try it different on the fuz. Thanks for the advice..

im not sure weather to get tester paints from B&Q or go the rattle can route. I may go for the cheaper option as this has been my first build. I have learnt a lot from this build to take with me on my next build.

Thanks Roy

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I think that is what I will do Monz, was your paint on the shelf or did they have to make it up ?

What was the name of your primer ? Sorry to ask so many questions. I'm not sure if I need to take a photo of a hawk with me for a colour match.

To rub down did you use emery cloth or wet n dry or just fine grit sand paper?

Regards Roy

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Ask away Roy! I'll help where I can.

I used off the shelf testers. I took a pic with me on my phone and walked around the paint section holding it up to their samples uuhming and aahing Found the closest matches and they've done just fine. I did use matt paints, and the Bucc is gloss, so I've given it a few coats of EK (I'll review the differences on the Bucc thread soon). As far as I know, the gloss paints will be enamels and much pricier, but you'll have to check.

The blue cost me £1 each for the testers and I used two of those. Then the grey cost £1.50 each and I used three of them (different quality paint) and one tester of yellow. All diluted 50/50 with water.

Before that though I used this primer **LINK** and I used half the tin, so 350ml odd.

I just used worn 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper and dry rubbed between coats. I keep different grades of sandpaper in different worn states for things like this!

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Roy, providing all of the depron is covered in cloth and resin, you can use rattle can primer. If it isn't then paint on some resin (E-K or PolyC) and let it dry, and then lightly dust on the rattle can primer. It's the propellant in the can that damages the foam, not the paint, so keeping it at distance and doing ultra light coats, it will be fine.

Wet and dry is best, and use it wet. Starting at 600 and finishing on 1200 or higher for a smooth finish.

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Thanks for the Advice Daz, it's much appreciated.

thanks for the link Monz and all your help regarding the tester pots. I will try and get over to B&Q over the next week although I am not quiet at the painting stage yet but it will be nice to have a go at the wings maybe wink

I need to get a good day on my build, but it's looking like I won't get a day off this week and no doubt my children will want to do something on Sunday, so I'll only get a couple of hours maybe .......... Here's hoping .

Edited By Roy Mundy on 12/03/2014 19:23:43

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