Jump to content

Can Doo it


Stephen Jones
 Share

Recommended Posts

hello Stephen--- yes both run ok...all the same esc's and motor's.......they were all in a GWS F15...its photo is on our web site-that's all that's left - the photo....Y lead for the esc's ..

 

edited just for baz....  teeth 2  ....

 

ken Anderson...ne....1......electric dept/not.

Edited By ken anderson. on 19/01/2015 20:03:47

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


Yes it's the red positive wire you remove so that only one of the speed controllers BEC's works.

I run my Twinstar on either one or two lipo's which doesn't matter as the two esc's are on a Y lead with one positive removed.

Ken? F16 with twin motors?

Baz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi ,

I Found a 18Amp Esc today while routing for parts to repair my Transmitter .

So i decided to take out the Flying Legends 20Amp Esc and give it ago , Glad i did .

Wow they both now work perfectly and i am now pulling over 250 Watt and that was not a fully charged battery .

So i now need to clean up the wiring and make a battery holder for the new battery , the best thing is , i will now be able to move the battery forward or back to archive the best CoG .

So shouldn't be long now for me to get this one airborne .

Steve smiley

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ken ,

I have two Esc in my CanDoo one for each motor , and my readings are for both motors running together .

20 amp for the rear motor and 18 amp for the front motor . And zero torque . Should be Fun ,

i may put a smaller prop on the rear than the one i currently have on , as the rear motor seems to be providing more thrust than the one on the front .

I may do a little more testing before i commit it to the Air .

Steve .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Finally mustered the courage to maiden my CanDoo. That and procuring the services of a competent pilot (thanks bruvs).

I can report that it flew away straight and level. No hint of the terminal left yaw suffered by some.

I have fitted a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 2836-1500 with a 7" x 5" prop. It is capable of 370W but currently drawing 190w with the 7x5.

Even with my limited skills I find it easy to launch (1/2 throttle and a good throw) and is a nice flyer.

I heartily recommend fitting rudders. For my flying style (sedate) having rudders adds to my control, although I cannot get it to stall turn.But then, being a canard, stall is not in its flight envelope.

candoorudder.jpg

(Not photoshoped. one of my mods was a removable wing)

I have now had a few flights with the CanDoo and am enjoying every one.

Thank you Nigel for a very nice design

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fly mine regularly, it nearly always goes in my car on a flying day and its great fun.

I did build it with the 4 servo set up so I could try all the mixes Nigel suggests but I find it more than maneuverable enough as it is .IE just elevator at the front and ailerons on the wing, so I haven't bothered with the mixes.

I might give them a go if I can work out how to program them just to see what its like.

Its a really great model, cheap and easy to build and a great flier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Colin,

You are right Nigel did mention a ducted fan version. I thought of sticking them on short pylons at the back like the A10. I think it would look good.

No I must not get carried away I have to many projects on the go already!

Edited By Cliff Bastow on 09/04/2015 11:29:05

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Had 3 flights with my Candoo today after suffering a slight prang on the 20th February. I'm running the suggested setup from 4Max (Motor / ESC) and with a 2200 battery I am getting 10 minutes flying and still around 30% left in battery yes

baz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 10 months later...

Finally plucked up the courage and fitted two wheels at the rear and one on the nose. Tracked in a straight line and rose off the ground beautifully. With a little trimming it flies great and feel as though it flies just the same as with no undercarriage. Landings are a little fast but who cares when landing on a concrete strip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted by colisace on 28/05/2016 16:15:43:

Finally plucked up the courage and fitted two wheels at the rear and one on the nose. Tracked in a straight line and rose off the ground beautifully. With a little trimming it flies great and feel as though it flies just the same as with no undercarriage. Landings are a little fast but who cares when landing on a concrete strip.

That is good to hear thumbs up. Thanks for letting us all Know .

Have you any pictures we can look at.

Cheers Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could find how to add text to pictures but the rear wheels are just held on with U clamps and a ply support on the wing top. The front wheel is an old tail wheel simply taped on for trials. It requires quite a run and does not want to lift off when suddenly it is away. It does have a nose down stance which does not help but requires clearance for the prop and landings are a dream. My next trial will be to fit an inrunner which was on the mig from RCM&E free plan with a 5inch prop to give better ground clearance and lift the nose up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info and pics, Much appreciated.

I think i will try something similar , I tried To get mine ready to fly last weekend but i am still having problems getting both motors to run at the same time .

I think i will have to take one motor off and fly it with just one motor on sad.

I may try just one more time to get both motors to work if i can program my tx to operate the speed from separate channels as they will not work from a Y lead .

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stephen, have you tried an opto isolator on one or both of the ESC signal leads?
These should stop any interaction between the two.


Also I can see a possible interaction if the motor leads to the 2 motors are not kept seperate. Although in your model this should not be likely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted by Kevin Wilson on 03/06/2016 07:26:50:

Stephen, have you tried an opto isolator on one or both of the ESC signal leads?
These should stop any interaction between the two.


Also I can see a possible interaction if the motor leads to the 2 motors are not kept seperate. Although in your model this should not be likely.

Do you mean like this question

Or something else ?

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Flew mine today in latest experiment. Used a 2700kv inrunner with a 5inch prop to give more ground clearance but required a small amount of weight at front. Took off great from runway and only required a small amount of extra up, flies great and now my club mates here in Spain all want one but want to try it in Depron so who knows what next is for the Can Doo?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...