Harrier Mate Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Very neat Steve. Do you stitch right through the wood.... Or just run 'false' stitches along the leather and then glue on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 FALSE??? FALSE??? wash your mouth out dear boy!! I used a 0.8mm drill right through the ply, and stitched one way, then the other, using a bent needle. Huh.... false... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrier Mate Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Just checking! 😄 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrier Mate Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Steve, for your upper fuselage deckings do you go with 0.4 mm ply or thicker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 0.4mm ply! Nice and easy to cut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrier Mate Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 First amendment to plan..... have turned some 3mm square hardwood strip into triangular section and attached to trailing edge of tailplane to allow elevator leading edge to be shielded rather than butt joined. Should look more scale hinge line and adds strength to tailplane. Photo to follow when iPhone charges!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 When I got my DVII, it was all built, with tail covered. However I needed to cover the fuselage and wings, heavily modify the front end for the Laser, and install dual servos in the upper wing, plus spray her up. The ones installed were glued in. Yep GLUED in. All that for £90, delivered. Result. Plus it had all hardware inc. wheels and flair lozenge fabric - I think I sold that on after copying the design! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrier Mate Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Ah now that makes sense. A bit of fettling and that will look excellent!I know its a bit far off, but dont forget the tail struts and bracing wires, it does stiffen it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrier Mate Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Absolutely. May even DIY a couple of brass turnbuckles for the upper bracing wires as they are very visible..... long way off yet but added to the growing list of bits to add! May need a Laser 180 at this rate to lift the weight!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 My struts were ali tube with added carbon rod stuffed into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 All very nice but hardly scale , but then nether is the rest of the model , as I've said before , the most accurate part is the name lol ! All good fun doing stuff like this anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrier Mate Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 The real aircraft has a shielded elevator hinge line, employing a hardwood section routed and clamped to fit the metal tubed trailing edge of the tailplane and radiused to the same diameter as the elevator leading edge. I decided not to use tubing as it won't be seen when covered but otherwise satisfied that its pretty scale to blend the hige line with hardwood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hayes Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 You guys were correct about making my own engine. I was totally screw'd buying the Arizona models 1/6 scratch builders kit. For $99 I'll have rockers and rocker arms. 90% of the kit you wouldn't use if you only want the top end. You need a magnifying glass to read the instructions and the hardwood cylinders differ by a good 1/16" on the diameters. I'm going to scan the AZ drawing at work and enlarge it. It should be a good reference. Yup, I'll be buying balsa and styrene to make my own. I already bought a bag of pens at the $1 store for the lifter springs. Stay tuned......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hayes Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Here's my $99 lesson, ouch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hayes Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 I re-formed the end of the Arizona Models supplied die punch to make my own cylinders. I know it's not scale but it's better than the kit supplied styrene. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 In my DVII, most of the engine was hidden anyway, and just needed the rocker covers to be visible, thankfully!!! Edited By Stevo on 07/02/2015 17:51:17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hayes Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 My engine bay is slightly deeper than yours. I'll have about 1/2" of cylinders at bottom. I'm building all 6 cylinders but I'll be clearing out under the front end like you did for my OS 70 surpass. I'm also doing the earlier exhaust with the two pipes coming out the right side. I guess it took me annoyed to make my own but I must say I'm enjoying it. Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 11/02/2015 21:40:04 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hayes Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 This is all for today. I need styrene to do the exhaust and intake ports put the local Hobby closed at 5pm. DOH !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hayes Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 So far today.......... and those flange nuts cost me $16.50 each! The sad part is I'll lose the front cylinder for engine clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hayes Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 See what you guys shamed me into. It's ready for the rocker arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrier Mate Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Bob, Superb job. sets the standard!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hayes Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Thanks Mate! I'm kind of sick thinking how I know I'm going to lose the front cylinder to engine clearance. I'm really thinking of pulling the nitro and going electric with sound. Or, is that another sin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrier Mate Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Crime against 4 strokes!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrier Mate Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 I bet you dont lose much off it. It will be invisible!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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