Glyn44 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 I can perhaps save you a bit of cussing. The cable snakes supplied did not fit through the slots pre cut in the fusalage formers. As mine were already fitted, along with three sides, it was not easy to enlarge them neatly, well not for me anyway. So the smart move is check before you fit the formers. Have fun, Glyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deadman Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Hi. This is my first build of any RC plane. How do I fix the servo's inside the fuselage to the balsa? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Hi, Wolstan, I have looked at the giant shark site to see the range of covering, but it seems they do not sell any can you please let us know the exact site location. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Hi, Paul, what plane are you building the instructions should tell, it is very hard to say if we do not know what the plane is, are you building from a plan or is it a KIT. all the best Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Covering is here at GiantShark. also check out HobbyKing which sometimes has better prices and selection but make sure it is the UK warehouse to avoid high shipping cost & import charges. Edited By kc on 09/01/2015 16:17:53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Paul, Silicon bath sealer good as anything, and allows servo removal if required. Or make a ply wood bracket to screw the servos too, then glue in bracket. Glyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 To secure servos I would use two hardwood or birch ply bearers about 1/4 by 3/8 inch ,say 6 by 9mm, across the fuselage and screw the servos into the wood. Or a 3mm ply plate with cutouts for servos and use screws thro the ply and into a tiny bit of hardwood for the screws to bite into. Note that if the servo arms touch each other the model will likely crash, so sometimes its better to put one servo the other way around or raise one a little to get plenty of clearance. Work all this out before fixing servos. Some people wrap the servos with a couple of layers of masking tape and epoxy the tape to fuselage or wing. Servo could be removed by cutting the tape away. Not tried this myself.but prefer bearers! There is a photo of a similar method here on the wings of Tim Hoopers new model Edited By kc on 09/01/2015 16:51:42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Posted by Michael Adams 3 on 09/01/2015 16:03:51: Hi, Wolstan, I have looked at the giant shark site to see the range of covering, but it seems they do not sell any can you please let us know the exact site location. Mike. Hi Mike 3 posts above yours I linked to the red covering at GiantShark Here is it again: **LINK** The whole range is here: **LINK** Or the red at HobbyKing UK warehouse for nearly the same price http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=62899 Cheers Edited By WolstonFlyer on 09/01/2015 18:13:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 hi Wolston, thank you it works just great. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Hi Paul, Here is Ton picture of the servo mount. Hope it helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 That looks like the servos are just floating, are they sat on silicon ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deadman Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Hi. Sorry, should have said I am working on RedEagle. Thanks for picture inside fuselage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I think that there is a support piece of balsa glued to each side of the fuselage, then a piece of ply glued across them. The ply has to have cut outs made so that the body of the servo fits through. Also I have raised one servo om rectangular blocks, again glued to the ply, so as to give vertical clearance for the servo arms. I think that they would have just fitted without the blocks but I made absolutely sure. I am just working out how to cut the nose sections out for the balsa blocks to be fitted. Very scary as I will,probably get it wrong! If any one has a photo of a cut away nose before the extra wood is fitted, I would very much like to see it. It is the one important pic that is missing upto now, well in my opinion. Give me 10 mins and I will post a pic of my fitted servos. Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 My servo assembly: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Glyn. About the hinges, those pins, why not do as I have, a length of piano wire the same size as the pins, then pass it through the whole lot of hinges, a 90 degree bend at one end and the same for the rudder one length does both, no probs. all the best if you try it . Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 There are pictures of the nose being formed back on page 2 from January last year. My opinion ( not having built this model) is that cuts are made so that a piece of balsa glues glues on flat. For that one cuts oversize and sands back with a coarse glasspaper block or Permagrit block preferably which cuts both sides at once forming a perfect flat. Any errors are covered by glueing on ( cyano) a bit of balsa and again sanding back until it's flat. Then glue on the thick blocks. Make sure a 'sandable' glue ( aliphatic or cyano) is used so the glue does not pullout when sanding to final shape. Glyn said he used ply for the servo tray but it looks like balsa blocks on top. Servo screws won't hold for long in balsa and eventually the servo will move rather than the elevator causing loss of control. Hardwood or ply blocks would be better. As Percy said best to turn one servo around even if one is raised, you cannot have too much clearance between servos. Edited By kc on 10/01/2015 19:08:08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Hi Guys, thanks for your replies Re the hinges. They'd is indeed. One complete with a piece of wire that fits through the hoops on the hinges themselves. I have worked out that the 90 degree does push, point first, into one of the pieces being joined. So I have that one sorted. I have the pics mention of the nose, but they only depict the nose when the balsa has been fitted ready to shape. I really wanted to see the the cutaway nose section before any wood was added.b Just to make sure I cut away the correct amount and shape etc. Again I think I have it but just wanted to,prevent a citting disaster, I'm prone to things like that! Point taken re the servos. All the wood I have used is ply or birch. There are no screws. Everything is cyano glued. The vertical clear and is 5mm between the horns. When I get round to firing it up I will carefully check, and do a servo 180 if required. Thanks for the inputs, nice to get advice from people who have been in the hobby for a long time. I'm going to chop the fuse nose tomorrow, fingers crossed. Al the mistakes I have made upto now, I have been able to rectify fairly simply. I'm learning every day. Also got my razor plane today!!! Thinking of buying a Dremel, anyone got one, if so which model, too many to choose from easily. Would hate to buy one then wish I had chosen another. Have fun, Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Holloway Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Hi Glyn Cutting the nose was the scariest part of my Red Eagle build - mainly because I had already installed the motor, and I knew how tight the wires were inside the fus. This is what it looked like: I didn't dare take any more wood off so left it like this and added the replacement bits. If you compare these pix with Ton's right at the beginning of this blog you will see the difference in his workmanship and mine! However, rough as it looks at this stage, the David plane and some Permagrit sanding blocks soon had it looking more respectable, as below, and by the time the covering is on, who knows? Hope this helps - Cheers, Les Edited By Les Holloway on 11/01/2015 12:36:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I reckon cutting the nose part should be done in rather the same way as a carpenter cuts a tenon - that is a shallow cut across the top, then reposition the wood and then work the saw back down one side following the line. At this stage the saw should automatically follow the shallow cut along the top whilst it cuts the side, so both cuts are in line. Then you saw the other side in the same way, finally cutting down from the top allowing the saw to follow both side cuts. Hopefully a really flat surface remains. Anybody who was lucky enough to go to a good school - that is one where they taught woodwork -will have learnt this method ( unless I got it wrong and then the rotating sound you can hear will be my woodwork master turning in his grave! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Hi Les and KC, Brilliant, now it's much easier for me to see exactly what the cuts should look like. I have confidence to do the operation now! I have not fitted my motor but my next job is to drill and test fit it, then cut the nose upto where it needs to be. On this point how is future access to motor, ESC gained? If the top and bottom sheeting is CA'd into position it's going to be quite a job, I think. I'm looking at the possibility of fixing the top sheet over the motor into place with blocks and screws. What do you think? KC I reckon I went to the same school, now you mention it. I did pass GCE woodwork, second attempt. I'll try it your way. Will post update when I have done it. Thanks again both. Kind regards, Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Just looked at the photos ( from Les) again, do I see that your cockpit is removable? I will check the plan later and see if it shows such a thing. Not looked for that as yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Ok, Ok I'm going for a brain transplant soonest, forgot about the battery hatch, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 My idea for installing motors deep inside the nose is to push two long threaded rods through the holes in front bulkhead right into hatch area then screw into the motor and then pull motor forward into postion and fix with 2 proper screws. Then unscrew the rods and replace with proper screws. I think that should work OK and get the holes lined up. I found that a heavy duty push rod end was the same M3 thread as the motor so I will use this instead of the threaded rod when I install a motor in my model ( not a Red Eagle but an ARTF ) This is rather like the old trick used to install captive nuts inside the tank bay of glow models. Depending on the wire length it might be a good idea to connect the ESC to motor before installing motor to save fiddling around with bullet connectors deep inside the nose. Make sure the motor rotates the correct way first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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