E-Glider new design called RedEagle

[Glyn44]

Well I have done most of the fuse nose cutting, looking at it I reckon I need to keep going a bit more.

I have offered the motor up and was wondering how to get the screws in, so I think your idea will be most helpful, thank you. These tips are really useful. In the long term I reckon a removable ply panel underneath the motor is the way forward.. I think i will do that if I ever need to get to it later on. I will stick with what I have for now though.

I have today, tried my first covering, rear stabilisers, hardest thing was starting the backing film separation . I'm sure someone out there has a tip for that, don't be shy.

Cheers for the info kc.

[Glyn44]

PS I found that things go much better with a few songs from Iron Maiden playing!

[Andy G.]

Hi Glyn.. Your Red Eagle is coming along nicely.. I added a removable ply hatch underneath mine, screwed in place, so I would have easy acsess to the ESC. I also left my nose section fairly 'chunky' as i was worried about the amount of strength left there otherwise. there's pics of mine somewhere in the thread..

A good tip for seperating the film from it's backing..... stick a small tab of masking tape on the backing paper, and another one almost opposite to it on the film, then hold the two tab ends and pull apart.. Hey Presto!!!!! Job done.

Andy.

[Glyn44]

Ok will try that,sounds good, will try it tomorrow. Thanks Andy. Is it necessary to revers the motor shaft?

[Andy G.]

Glyn, with regards to the motor shaft, that will depend entirely on the motor you have chosen,. On the Dremel issue, I don't know how I ever managed without one!! My personal opinion is.... go for a mains powered corded one so that it's always ready to go at full power. I modded the nose of my Red Eagle with a small air scoop underneath to cool the motor and give a little bit more room for the motor leads.

Andy

[kc]

Personally I dont like the idea of messing around with a brand new motor to reverse the shaft. Problem was I could see a tiny circlip and couldn't see a circlip groove that would suit if I pushed the shaft through. Rather than do that I bought another motor! ( if you do remove a circlip remember the idea of doing it in a polythene bag to capture the flying circlip!)

Propdrive motor listed by HobbyKing have the shaft coming out the correct end for your model ( at least the 2830 Propdrive that I have ) but check that the hole spacing will suit your front former. And that the shaft will fit a folding prop.of the correct size. The Propdrive 2830 1100kv has 16mm by 19mm hole spacing and M3 thread.  2.96mm  (nominal 3mm) shaft. About 11.36 pounds at HobbyKing UK.. Gives max 278 watt on 3S according to spec. I dont know whether that's enough for a Red Eagle.

I have a mains powered mini drill and a cordless one ( neither genuine Dremel ) and frankly they hardly ever get used for aeromodelling - waste of money to me. Cordless one is always run down when needed, mains one works anytime but revs are far too high for drilling, while using burrs or grinding needs eye protection so it's easier to use hand tools. A Permagrit file or two would be a better use for the money in my view.

 

Edited By kc on 12/01/2015 13:35:58

[Glyn44]

I decided that after along look at the plan that my motor will fit as supplied, thanks. I will have to fix it directly onto the ply former with 4 machine screws and washers. This is because I can see no way of utilising the supplied cross mount. I think it will suffice, do you?

Points taken with the Dremel, as mainly wanted it for the small size drills that we often use. My present cordless is somewhat cumbersome and difficult to use one handed. I'll hang on to see if I really need one.

Thanks again good people,

Kind regards, Glyn.

[Andy G.]

Glyn.... That's exactly how my motor is fitted, 4 small machine screws through the front of the firewall and into the motor casing.. Just make sure that the length is not excessive or the ends of the screws will enter the motor and damage it!! The X mount is for use when you mount the motor onto a rearward firewall, just put it to one side, it will come in useful somewhere else.....

If you buy the mid to high range Dremel's they have a speed control which lets you control them extremely well, I use mine all the time.. The collet thing is a bit of a pain, so I think my next dremel purchase will be one of the little chucks, that will make it even more useful..

Andy..

[Glyn44]

Cool, thanks Andy, going to fit it now. I assume the chuck is for taking round shafted drills etc. If so its a must for me.

[trebor]

I have an old Dremel but the speed control is cream crackered so I got one of these maplin jobs, it's got a few collets / pin chuck attachments for small drills. Speed control is ok you can get a cheaper one with less bits.

**LINK**

[Glyn44]

Today I have drilled the motor fixing holes, using a trick I mounted the cross mount, that is supplied with the motor onto a pushrods. A tight fit was achieved to create a boss for the central hole. The pushrods was pushed through the hole and centraly supported. It was then a simple mater to offer up the mount flush with the plt former mark the holes and drill.

Then a second trick, I saw it mentioned on this forum earlier. Using the same pushrods I screwed the threaded end into a couple of the motor fixing holes, with the motor in the battery hatch area, pushed the two rods through fixing holes, from the inside then pulled the motor forward and jiggered it about until the two remaining empty holes aligned with the open screw holes, and bingo motor was attached. Rods removed and final two screws inserted.

[Michael Adams 3]

How is every one getting on with the build? I have built the wings & tail feathers, now on the fuse. the wings gave me a bit of a problem as all the ribs were not of the same length so had to cut a couple of new ones, the fuse isn't to difficult, so long as it is kept square & level, I have altered the front end as I am using a brushless motor which is placed on a fire wall a lot farther back, still using the same circular nose cone, may have to alter the battery position to find the C of G. will try to upload some photos when finished. that's all for now as I have to go & do some snow shovelling.

All the best Mike.

[Michael Adams 3]

all most forgot not using the two (2) dowels in the front of the wings or the two (2) lock down bolts at the trailing edge, going for the old method of rubber bands, tried & tested.

Mike.

[Glyn44]

Hi Mike,

Well I have finished the fuse. It wasn't until I had finished the nose that I really comprehended what I was supposed to do!!! I think it's alright. I'll put pic up later. I have used a touch of fill in various places to hopefully get a nice surface for covering.

I have then tea bagged the wood hoping that the staining would disguise the white filler , thus reducing its ability to show through the transparent colouring. I cant remember where I got this idea from, it's probably a c**p idea. Is there something better you guys can tell me?

I have 90% built one centre wing section, I dont think it's fantastic but will sort my errors out one at a time. Then I will build the rest having learnt lessons. Eh, that's the way to do. In fact only got the sheeting to do. I am getting much better at reading the drawing as well.

Gotta get a heat gun, but dare not buy one as I have had.so many parcels come, she's starting to notice, so going to give it a week or so. In mean time will,try and borrow one.

Enjoying it anyway, thanks for all your help and advice, oh and encouragement.

Kind regards, Glyn

 

[Michael Adams 3]

Hi Glyn, no need for a heat gun save some money, just up the heat on your iron and pass it over the covering

with out touching it, keep an eye on it & you will see it shrink, why not do a test, build a square of balsa or a plastic box cover it

then pass the iron over it to see if it shrinks, if you burn a hole in it, take it off & try again, do this until you get it right

saves making a mess of the wings or fuse, hope this will help you.

all the best Mike.

[Alan Thorpe]

This is great help in building the glider thanks a lot lads for adding to the forum!

I waited untilI had a David plane and permagrit Sanders to do the leadingedge of thewing panels......I glad I did as its turning out OK!! I know it would've been disaster without these tools!

Stillhave to do sheeting to get near completing wings.

Just wondering about washout as I don't have much even after following plans. Wonder if its possible to add more when I cover the wings? Has anyone had any luck with this method??

Keep up good work with great forum!!!!

Cheers alan

[Andy G.]

Alan... I shouldn't worry TOO much about the washout, I'm sure the amount you have will be just fine, Red Eagle is pretty stable in flight, even down to very slow sped so tip stalling won't be an issue.. In all honesty I completely forgot to build the washout into the second wing panel when I built it, so I just twisted it a bit and covered it. Mine flies GREAT!.

Andy.

[Glyn44]

Hi All,

Just about to start my Sat build but I really need a pointer re W13. This is the ply strengthener at the corner of the centre wing section, trailing edge corner. Does it sit proud of the trailing edge I.e. On top of. Or is it to be inset not the edge and the balsa block? I assume that the hole in it is for the wing fixing bolt. What does the bolt screw into? Just the hole or is there to be a captive nut in the balsa block underneath? Sorry but I can't see side elevation view on plan.

Cheers Glyn.

[Andy G.]

Hi Glyn..

Yes that little ply plate sits on top of the wing structure and spreads the load from the wing bolt.

the Bolts go through into the PLY plate that goes across the fuselage below the trailing edge of the wing where you will need to fit two captive nuts.

I can't seem to find my copy of the plan right now so have no idea what part number that plate is, but you will have to have fitted it as the fuselage was built so HOPEFULLY it is already in place.. Nylon bolts, of course for wing fixing so that they have a chance of shearing off in a bad arrival and saving the plane from too much damage..

Andy.

[kc]

Plan shows wing bolt goes into FO5 and FO5A which are inside fuselage. Normally these ply plates ( like W13) go on top to reinforce and hold all the balsa together. I chamfer the edges of ply BEFORE gluing in place. Hold on the edge of bench ( use scrap to preserve bench) and use a glasspaper block or Permagrit tool, takes a few seconds. Then the film covering goes over neatly.

Note that the wing bolt must have it's head flat on W13 so it goes thro F05 at an angle so any captive nut must be at the same angle.  So the holes in FO5 are drilled after locating wing and with drill at right angles to W13.  Can be easier to tap a thread into the ply and harden with cyano rather than put a captive nut at an angle.   Or angle FO5 to suit?

You could easily tap a thread in ply with just a steel  bolt if you dont have tap.  Taper the bolt so it starts easily.  Taps are fairly cheap though, wing bolts are often 2 BA so that's a handy size to have   ( 2 BA taps are 1.50 at Tracy Tools -at Alexandra Palace show this weekend, M5 2 pounds )

Edited By kc on 17/01/2015 11:29:07

Edited By kc on 17/01/2015 11:36:06

[Glyn44]

Ok, brilliant. I have it now, many thanks. I have not fitted F05 as yet, but have just located it in the box. So I will,fit at then do as you advise.

One other thing that puzzles me. Where the wing ribs slot into the underside of the TE the ribs and TE are flush. However at the top side the rib tapers down and less than the thickness of the TE. This means that I am left with portion of empty slot on the upper side. Do I just leave them empty as there will then be a small gap between the covering and the ribs for a centimetre or so until the covering meets the rib. May be that's normal, I don't know.

Once again many thanks, I will,really have to start the washing up soon!

Gratefully yours, Glyn.

[Andy G.]

MMM I didn't have that problem with mine, you could try sanding just a 'smidgen' or two off the trailing edge to lessen the gap or try to utilise a bit of the difference top and bottom, i'e move the rib up fractionally so the top gap is less noticeable. It's been a while since I built mine so I can't quite remember but, I think I may well have added gussets at the rib/te junction to strengthen things up as the ribs are fairly skinny there..

hope that helps somewhat..

Andy.

[Alan Thorpe]

Hey Glen,

I am in middle of making mine too and have noticed the same thing asyou'd with Te thickness and rib height. I see in instructions that we have to plane the TE to taper off following the slope of the ribs. I haven't done this yet and am afraid of not getting a consistent te the sole length of wing!!! Ton taped one side of the David plane to protect top of each rib and only cut trailing edge.....but I'ce yet to tackle this!!!

[Alan Thorpe]

Sorry Glyn, predictive text messed this up on me! great to have lads to bounce questions off of building this glider!I am trying not to look up more models for next build!

[Glyn44]

Hi again,

Yes I have thought about adding triangular gussets, and prrobably will do before covering. I have planed my TE wasn't really too difficult. I have left the inner edge of it at virtually it's starting thickness, just shaved away from it at an angle, leaving about 2mm out the outer edge. That's how I interpret the drawing. So yes I could keep removing wood until the slot gaps have gone, but I think the whole thing might be too thin then. And even I know it's not to easy to removed balsa back on!

It's not a smidgen, more like 1.5 to 2 mm. I'll leave it alone for now as not ready to cover anyway.

In fact even my guess is incorrect. I have just measured wait a digital vernier and the thickness of the TE is 6.5mm

and the thin end of the rib that fits into the slots is 2mm! Hence quite a large difference. So must be designed to have the gap. Perhaps Ton could comment.

So I will start the other wing sections, and see what turns up in the mean time

As always yours gratefully, Glyn.