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E-Glider new design called RedEagle


Ton van Munsteren
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Awesome pics Ton--thanks!

Question about power setup. I am not one to "overpower" models (as a rule) but I would be using my Red Eagle for ALES competition here (one of your F3J classes or some such) where I need to be at 200 meters in under 30 seconds. My e-converted Spirit glider (VERY similar to your Red Eagle) could not consistently make altitude within time on a power system similar to what you've described...on three cells anyway. With four cells (which is too much for the motor, finally fried one late last season) it will LEAP to altitude in less than 20 seconds.

Have you timed yours to altitude? The video early in this thread made it look like it will climb pretty well, but enquiring minds want to know (as the magazine header once said).

Thanks!

Scott

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Hi Scott,

Sorry have no idea of the altitude after 30sec climb, the video was with the HK prop. Which was a poor one and was replaced with an 9x5 Aeronaut for a much better climb. And this one is now replaced with an Aeronaut 9,5x5 for an even better climb going nearly vertical.

I will ask a mate for an altitude meter to do a climb for 30sec to see how high the RedEagle will go.

Would love to see some pics of your RedEagle.

Cheers

Ton

Edited By Ton van Munsteren on 10/03/2015 20:28:26

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Many thanks Ton.

Haven't built yet, sourcing the bits to make it...I like to have everything in a box when I start a build, that way I'm not frustrated waiting for stuff. As a school teacher, my building season ends up coinciding with flying season (mostly). This time of year, though it would be great to "escape" to the basement in the evenings, I'm usually dead on my feet when evening comes. I REALLY want to get a Red Eagle built first thing this summer so I can use it the second half of our season. My poor Spirit is really starting to look tatty. Not her fault, it's on the pilot. Dare not strip her down, though, until I have a replacement in the quiver.

 

Edited By Scottrik on 10/03/2015 21:59:56

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yes well done to all.

Mine is still on my bench awaiting to be covered. I keep putting it off as I'm not sure how, as I have never done it. I am getting info from YouTube etc. so will be taking the plunge soon!

Kind regards to all,

Glyn.

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Hi Glyn, start by covering all bottom pieces first,then the tops, I start with the wings, then tail plane and rudder, the fus,, do the bottom then the sides finish with the top , cut each piece 1/4 to 3/8ths bigger, that gives you a bit to play with to wrap around each surface, the different colours can be added after. test the heat of your iron by the method to place a small piece on to the base of the iron and see how it curls , to fast to hot to slow not hot enough, if you are not sure try the covering on to a spare piece of balsa until you are satisfied that it is stuck down ok.

Good luck, practice is the only way, Mike. smiley

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Hi Mike,

That's really good of you, I will do as you say as soon as poss. When you say "different colours can be added after" I take it mean do all the covering of all the parts in a particular colour, then apply the second colour as required? Not cover everything with colour one and then apply colour two on top of colour one, if you understand.

Sorry if I'm being a bit dim here.

I especially appreciate the temp. tip, I wondered how I was to find the right one!

Thanks and kind regards,

Glyn.

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Ah super stuff Mike, thanks very much! That's great, hope the weather works out! The altimeter is a great idea!

I have one installed in a smaller glider and it's good craic to see what height it was up to and if there were any thermals caught....usually none with my skills!!

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Hi Glyn,

That's great you're about to cover the glider, nice one!!

I found some good help on the Solarfilm packaging and on the web too. The best thing I found, as Mike says was to test on scrap balsa and then to mark on the iron the thermostat position when the film just about sticks to the wood with blue marker and then with red mark it at the other end of the scale, when it's plenty hot without burning/ shrivelling the film. By tacking with a low heat all around the edges of the film, it will hold it in place, then adding a bit more heat it will hold it firm enough to finally shrink tight. I covered the wings by tacking to the leading edge, spar and trailing edge first......then ironing at lowish heat, over each of the ribs and then checking for warps as I went. Applying a heat at setting between the blue and red marks on the iron next lightly shrinks it and sticks it better to the wood. Then finally to add heat at the red setting tightens it to a final finish, being careful not to warp the wing. I think warps happen when the high heat is applied and it shrinks like a drum.

Sure let us know how you get on! Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

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Thanks Alan,

All this info I will put into practice, and I will certainly post progress pics. Gotta get it finished as I have impatiently ordered another wood kit for my second build. And being me I will want to start it soonest!

Kind regards, Glyn.

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Just finishing wing covering today.....I am using 3 different films and have noticed that the coloured opaque ones can melt a little earlier at mid High temperatures that the clear solar film normally withstands. I suppose it's the paint making it a bit softer. Looking forward to finally getting this flying. .....maybe early 2017!!
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Glyn, the instructions for Solarfilm are on the back of the labels and also here They also apply( mostly) to the much cheaper unbranded films available from Hobbyking or GiantShark. Note the one really unexpected hint about Complex Shapes like wingtips. Having a large waste part to grip enables the film to shrink neatly around three dimensional parts, while being more economical with the film doesn't work! It's not just to sell you more film, it's true!

The Insignia Booklet on that website not only shows proportions of roundels, stars etc but also shows details of how to make a simple circle cutter.   The most interesting part is that it gives instructions to move the Solartrim around not the cutter.  Not tried that yet......

Edited By kc on 31/03/2015 15:38:53

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Posted by Alan Thorpe on 31/03/2015 15:11:49:
Hi Glyn,

Nice one with the new kit.....what did you go for? ? So many class models out there....I'm continuously looking up what to buy next!! Any recommendations?

Alan,

Can I give a recommendation, check out the kits from rbckits and the fun thing is that some of the models are my designwink

Cheers

Ton

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