John F Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Returning to the hobby after many years away I was amazed at the changes in the gear available. One of those big changes are the outrunners. I never expected the case to spin! I recently bought a HK 35-20 1100kv motor for a glider so I need to add a folding prop. The only ones available that I can find are 2-4mm shaft driven ones. I cannot find any that use the prop adapter. Are there any that use the standard prop adapter or do I have to turn the shaft around somehow to fit the 4mm spinners? Edited By John F on 21/01/2014 10:38:58 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 By the standard prop adapter, do you mean the type that bolts on to the front of the rotor, John? If so, I'm not aware of such a folding prop prop spinner for them. The shaft on many motors should be movable to project from either the front or rear of the motor. If the shaft is currently extending from the rear of the motor, you'll probably find it retained at the back by a 'C' clip, with a grub screw at the front end, through the rotor body. If you loosen the grub screw and remove the clip, you should be able to press the shaft through so it protrudes from the front of the motor. I use a suitable-sized socket and a vice to press the shaft through, although some use a hammer..... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Ah, that is what I thought. There is very little info when you receive the motor. I am still in awe of the size of these things now. Thank you Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Plains Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 This is what I see as a relatively basic folding prop with adapter. (approx £9) Being all ally makes it a bit heavier, and being relatively cheap means that the drilling in the centre of the blade yoke is not a good fit on the adaptor. But we deal with those issues don't we? If you don't mind spending a bit more to get best quality, then pretty much the only choice is Aeronaught. Though I find it does my head in trying to get the correct prop diameter I want and working out which yoke to choose. Some of the cheaper all in one plastic types are, well, cheap. So you have to match motor shaft and prop before ordering. I'll admit that I am able to cheat a bit, as I work in a place with manual lathes and can make alterations to the adaptors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 John, I've reversed the shaft on a number of motors. If you have a link to your motor & say which glider you are building I might be able to give some assistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 John, Tim Hooper posted a link to a you tube video on p10 of his citabria pro build blog showing how to reverse the motor shaft if needed. I pasted it here, hope it works, if not you can get to it from Tim's blog. **LINK** dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 There is some possibility of damaging the motor if done by the inexperienced, so wouldn't it be better to buy a motor with the shaft at the correct end and save this one for a different model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Pat, the model is a Serenade Classic E, with an Prop Drive Series 35-30 1100. The options I've found are to either mount on M4 rods method http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=89627 mount on a front ply piece with the shaft sticking out (13mm) as per here: **LINK** or to remove the grub screw and circlip and reverse the shaft. There's a few options to think about. Edited By John F on 21/01/2014 13:02:56 Edited By John F on 21/01/2014 13:03:18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Posted by kc on 21/01/2014 12:59:04: There is some possibility of damaging the motor if done by the inexperienced, so wouldn't it be better to buy a motor with the shaft at the correct end and save this one for a different model? To be honest KC I didn't even know there was a difference! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Posted by kc on 21/01/2014 12:59:04: There is some possibility of damaging the motor if done by the inexperienced, so wouldn't it be better to buy a motor with the shaft at the correct end and save this one for a different model? I'm not aware that it is an option,kc. I've found most, if not all, of the motors I have purchased have arrived with the shaft projecting from the rear as they often included the bolt-on mount for the front end. Whichever, I've never found it particularly difficult to move the shaft - it's just one more skill to be acquired by a leccy modeller, IMHO.... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 From what I've seen Pete, to become a leccy modeller you might as well take an electrical engineering degree! The changes in materials is one thing, such as depron, it is easy to understand but the advances in battery technology and the enormous choice of electric motors means a complex matching process. Couple that with the requirements of your ESC it becomes a bit of a minefield. My last Rx was a self soldered 35 Meg Rx I built in 96 - 97. I had to send it off to be checked to a guy who advertised in the RCM&E as it would not work, my soldering was bridged on one component. It wasn't a huge Rx box but I was very surprised when I got my DX6i today from my LMS and saw the size, or rather lack of size, of the receiver. I was amazed. Yes, there appears to be many skills that folk have to adopt to get into leccy flying. With more and more clubs not allowing I/C I don't have anything to fall back on so have to get in there and get some studying done. Edited By John F on 21/01/2014 20:25:43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 John, I haven't been able to find any spinner with folding prop yoke that would be suitable for the prop adapter that bolts to the motor body. Also there may be snag in reversing the shaft on your particular motor. I use a similar method to that shown in the Youtube video that David Fillingham linked to (I use a vertical drill stand as the press). The motors have always had either a collet & second flat (as per video) or a second groove for the circlip at the end of the shaft. This means that the shaft is positively restrained from moving due to the the prop's thrust & the bearing is also restrained. I've had a look at the images of the NTM motor on HK's site & it's impossible to say if there's any collet or second circlip groove at the shaft tip. If there's no problem reversing the shaft of you motor you could mount & cowl it similar to my method shown in this that you posted however my own preference would be to mount the motor within the cowl as Pete & Erfolg have done in the same link. If there's a problem with the wires clearing the rotating body I'd drill a hole in the cowl where wires exit the motor then another near the rear of the motor then route them out & back into the cowl with perhaps a fairing made from a discarded blister pack (small Easter egg packs are good). HTH, Pat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Yes, it's been a very steep learning curve for many of us, John If it helps, a browse through the leccy flight for beginners section will provide a huge amount of useful information. If you've got specific questions, keep on asking - it's what the forum is for! Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Thank you for looking Pat. The cowl installation was my initial idea too as it is simple. I've already noticed the close proximity of the wires and have thought about carving out more of the upper cowl as it is only a shaped block which should give me enough clearance. Pete, thanks, I've been loitering around there regularly at the moment. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alwyn Gee Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Pete You just beat me too it. I just logged in to make this same link for John F. This is where I found much of what i have leaned since beginning this hobby just a few short years ago. It really isn't as dark an art as many would have you believe, there is more than enough knowledge on this forum to sort out any problems you're likely to come across. Alwyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Posted by PatMc on 21/01/2014 20:45:59: I've had a look at the images of the NTM motor on HK's site & it's impossible to say if there's any collet or second circlip groove at the shaft tip. Looking at the replacement shaft for that motor, you're right Pat - there's no second groove or collet recess on the shaft. The nose ring mounting is probably the better option if possible. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Plains Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Posted by John F on 21/01/2014 20:25:10: From what I've seen Pete, to become a leccy modeller you might as well take an electrical engineering degree! Yes, there appears to be many skills that folk have to adopt to get into leccy flying. With more and more clubs not allowing I/C I don't have anything to fall back on so have to get in there and get some studying done. Edited By John F on 21/01/2014 20:25:43 I can see your point as I'm a total noob, apart from 25yrs on and off with RC cars. Hmm. You could always take up pure gliding, with slope soaring, DLG, bungee and tow starting, there'd be no motors or ESCs to worry about. I'm heading that way, via a round about route, even though I only taught myself to fly RC last year. But there are quite a few motor and prop calculator web pages about, though even they aren't all plain sailing. There are sites that give approximate IC to electric conversions. But the main thing is that unless your plane is woefully underpowered, it will fly. Then you can start learning. I'm liking it as I've always been one to experiment with and modify my toys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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