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¼ scale Hurricane tailwheel


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I've been asked to make a sprung tailwheel unit for a ¼ scale Hurricane and this thread will show the various stages in manufacture. I sketched out some ideas and studied and measured photographs to come up with a reasonably accurate full-size drawing, which I then scaled down. My client provided a standard 3" wheel, (correct scale size) which came with glossy sidewalls and moulded tread, so that need changing for a start. Pleasingly, a few minutes experimenting in the lathe with various abrasives soon produced a typical well-worn, smooth tyre. Weathered wheel

Most encouraging. Discs will be added later to hide the machined alloy hub.

The wheel linkage must sit correctly compressed on the ground , and as the model is not yet built some approximate calculations (guesses) have to be made with regard to spring rate, preload etc. More of that later.

I decided to use thin wall steel tube for the outer, fixed tube which resides almost completely within the fuselage.

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Continued

Pivoting within that will be an inner alloy tube, and within THAT, a plunger and spring arrangement, hooked up to the swinging arm in as realistic looking way as possible. A real Hurricane has a short clevis link between the swing arm and the piston rod of the hydraulic damper,with pivots at each end of course. I decided it wasn't practical nor strictly necessary to reproduce the link action exactly, so I'm making the link to pivot only at the swing arm end whilst the other end will be solidly fixed to the spring plunger shaft. The slight arc that will be followed will be accommodated by making the spring-carrying piston (which is a slack fit anyway), with a part-spherical rim to allow such motion without jamming.

The outer tube has been turned to length and a a piece of phosphor bronze bonded into each end as a bearing bush, using Loctite496. I bored the bushes in situ, the adhesive holding them with complete security.Outer, fixed tube

I may mill away some of the tube wall to reduce weight later.

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Next came the castor arm (my title) milled from a block of light alloy. The first step was to drill a hole to take pivot bushes, then it went into the 4-jaw chuck on the lathe to have a top collar turned and to be bored for the inner tube.Castor arm

Finished with the lathe, now to the millAfter that I marked out and milled a small step, and the two sloping faces, as well as forming the radiused lower end.Side profile completed

The castor arm and inner tube were then bonded together. The tube had previously been skimmed and lightly relieved over the middle part. you can't see it here, but the arm has been significantly relieved on the underside. I also turned two PB bushes and the pivot spindle, which is titanium (all exotic materials here, you'll note), from a shaft out of a chemical process machine. the spindle is threaded internally M4, the idea being that it will be gripped solidly between the forward arms of the wheel fork by end screws, and so be unable to turn.Bonded to down-tube At the end of the milling exercises all the arms and the wheel fork (as I now call it) will be hand carved to give the nice curves of the real thing.

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Now to the wheel fork, again this is milled from a block of light alloy. Firstly, I drilled the principal pivot holes, then milled the top half of the side profile, followed by boring for the wheel apertureWheel fork

After much rotating this way and that in the mill vise, and producing copious amounts of silvery swarf, I had a rather cubist looking forkWheel forkFork front endFork underside.

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continued

Here's the fork in its present state.milling completed

Ive made the wheel spindle in a similar way to the pivot spindle, i.e. titanium, internally threaded each end for clamping screws. The wheel will run on its own hub, with short spacer tubes fitted to centralise it in the fork. Further detailing will be added later, such as the rearward projecting lugs for a manoeuvring handle.

At this point I just couldn't resist putting bits together to get an idea of how the finished job will look. Trial assembly of bushes and spindle

Trial fit of wheel

and finally ...Beginning to look the part, but a lot of exterior sculpting still to do to obtain that curvy appearance.

That's as far as I've got at present. Next I'll be dealing with the internal spring arrangement, and a lower travel stop to ensure the correct angle of dangle in the air.

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Thank you Depron Daz and Plummet, I'll post more as it's done. With reference to what's inside a block, I loved the explanation given by a hugely talented old carver of exquisitely finished decoy waterfowl, pieces of art in their own right. When asked how he carved one he said " I take a block of wood and cut off anything that doesn't look like a duck".

Cheers,

Ken.

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A bit more done this morning. Out came the Dremel and a cutter and next minute it was snowing flakes of alloy. After a while, and with some judicious hand filing in odd corners the cubist fork was transformed into representational art, and much more like the real thing.Sculpted wheelfork

Then I turned up a couple more small PB bushes, this time for the pivot at the lower end of the dummy clevis link to the spring pushrod. Trial fitting them here, they will be bonded in place later with a drop of Loctite. The spindle here will be ⅛" silver steel, and I intend to fix it into the clevis by having a small drilled hole into which a drop of Loctite will be introduced in the hope that it locks the spindle and nothing else. I may grease the bush faces before this final assembly to prevent stray Loctite doing the unthinkable.Pushrod bearings

Now I'm waiting for information on the CG position so I can calculate the likely parked load on the tailwheel and from that calculate the spring force required at the desired state of compression. Then I can source a spring of the desired characteristics. The spring housing will incorporate a means of adjustment through the use of shim washers so that variation from projected model weight can be catered for.

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Ohh, you guys, just stop it will you ? But thanks, a bit of encouragement is always welcome, especially from talented people such as yourselves. But now I'm asking myself why I elected to use silver steel for that last mentioned spindle, it doesn't make sense does it ? I'll use titanium again, it just means I have to turn it rather than cutting a piece off a stock rod, lazy beggar.

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Well Phil, before I sculpted the wheel recess I was able to insert my spacer block and then clamp the fork in a small vice to work other areas, but after that, and for much of the final touches it was hand held. I expect to do a little more rubbing down here and there. The eagle-eyed among you will have spotted that two triangular fillets have been added to the lugs carrying the pushrod pivot. I made an oops on the mill and picked a wrong dimension off my sketch, taking away ⅛" I shouldn't. Feet of clay after all, you see.

Next came the link to the pushrod, which is only pivoted at the bottom end, on said lugs, and yes, I have made the spindle from titanium. The alloy tube pushrod will be bonded into an axial hole at one end. Here's the oversize block, having been drilled and reamed for pushrod and pivot hole. A piece of brass tube and fine grinding paste are creating the impression of an upper pivot pin.Clevis link Here's the result, awaiting final sizing.Ready  for final sizingHere we are after cutting off the bits that didn't look like a link, and adding the pushrod which has been turned down and polished for a short length to suggest a hydraulic cylinder rod. I've roughly outlined a rod-end, and if I can think of a way to dig out material I'll try to improve this feature.Link on pushrod

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To Martian, well spotted but the camera date is correct. You see, I have so much to do each day it won't fit into 24 hours, so I'm running two parallel existences and popping back and forth in my time machine (plans to be made available, at some time in the future, naturally), however, I'll reset the camera to my present day existence, as it bothers you.

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ah the old parallel existence eh some use it to run 2 wives others to work and holiday at same time some to watch football and do household chores but your use is much more fruitful but yes I would appreciate the plans my time machine is constructed form some old H G Wells plans and we know what happened there

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cont'd.

At this point I had to sit down and do some SUMS, real, hard arithmetic, concerning the choice of spring, before I could do more engineering. As the finished model weight is unknown I had to build-in some means of allowance for variation from the target of 25Kgs. so that we could still achieve the correct sit-down position of the linkage when the aircraft is parked. Briefly, a parked Hurricane side-view had the expected C.G. added, them measurements were taken along the ground to give moments of C.G. and tailwheel about the main-wheel centre. For the target 25 Kgs this gave a tailwheel load of a little under 2Kgs, exactly 4 lbs. (that's better, good old Imperial units), then the castoring linkage had to be taken into account to give the force required at the main shaft, which is where the spring will be. This more than doubled the force to about 8 ½ lbs. I also had to consider the full stroke required, as it would be nice to have a little spring load remaining at full extension. I was surprised by just how low a Hurricane tailwheel dangles in flight, something I'd never noticed before. It will take about 1.3g to achieve full travel and compression. With spring O.D. limited to about 7/16" I found Morris Springs had just the job. Their catalogue lists all the essential data for each spring, very handy. I've designed in some packing washers which can be removed if the model is lighter, or more added if heavier, and so can cope with a range from 20 - 30 Kgs., each washer of .014" catering for 1Kg.

Now I had dimensions for the spring so I turned a dummy one from L.A. , and used it to help fix the length of the pushrod, which in turn fixed the position of down-stops, needed to hold the correct angle of dangle.Fitting downstops These plates intrude into the bore, each covering a quarter of the circumference. Once bonded in they were cleaned up and internal profiles adjusted to allow passage of the spring during assembly. The dummy spring can be seen alongside the pushrod in the background of the next photo.Internal travel stopsHard to photograph, but you can just make out the intrusions.Piston modifiedTo allow the piston to also pass during assembly it was modified by removal of corresponding portions. Once in, a 90 degree turn prevents escape. The conical nose automatically centres the spring, a feature repeated on the upper spring cap.Dummy spring locationHere is the dummy spring located between the two.Spring cap, and cross-pin retentionThe spring-cap which is threaded into the inner tube, acts as the retainer at the top bearing. Its central threaded hole is for steering arm retention (see later pic.). Alongside is the pushrod with dummy link, the cross-pin now retained by a grubscrew which doesn't bear directly on the pin, as that would chew the surface and score a bush upon withdrawal. Instead the pin now has a slight waist (unlike me), through which the screw passes, in a blind threaded hole, so it can be locked firmly home. The waist is visible below.Waisted cross-pin The steering arm will be retained by one central bolt. To positively transmit torque it will be housed in a shallow recess, yet to be milled across the spring cap flange (that's why it is so thick). Oh, and please note, from hereon the dateline has been correctly set. You know who I'm talking to. Steering arm

Next are some photos of the bits put together. Linkage is in the dangle position, and you may note that some further sculpting has been done, this time on the castor arm.Assembly to date Assembly to dateFinally, I revisited the wheel with a view to making centralising spacers. I measured the hub width, subtracted from the gap, divided by two and made spacers accordingly. It was then I discovered the wheel was 1/32" off centre, making 1/16" difference between sides in the fork., and the tyre was wobbling sufficiently to rub. Back to the lathe to true the wheel, improve the profile, and make new the spacers as required. I fitted the now centralised wheel, and look forward to adding discs to mask the modern hub.

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