Erfolg Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 Bob, I think I have the same tabs, if I am correct they are on the plan. Or are we talking about something else. Again I must commend you, as forming my PC body took an age also a bit of a challenge, getting the sloping flange right, whereas you, well, what can be said, fast and well formed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 Erf, the plan shows one wwiiidddeee tab each side, i thought this was taking too much out of the fin leaving a potential weak spot. With my record for hangar damage I decided to give the fin a fighting chance by reducing the effective width of the tab leaving an extra 'pillar' up the centre of the fin. The sloping flange will be done by separating the removable canopy section with the scroll saw, as long as it fits the mouth of the saw! Otherwise it's junior hacksaw time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 That all looks very sound to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 It did fit the scrollsaw, the canopy is off, the nose is shaped (well, 'a' shape at any rate) and the wing is now glued on but I've got WSBK race 2 to watch next before getting the covering iron out - I recorded it overnight, no spoilers now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 I would just get some reinforcement into the tail booms, the design isn't sound to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 I have looked more carefully at the photograph by double clicking onto it. I guess, that rather than using a single soft block each, for the front and rear of the canopy. You made side plates, which allowed to cut the joint, marquetry style, although the sheet for top would still be an issue. So how have you made a joint which I found a struggle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 this may explain the canopy/fuselage top structure more clearly - I've run a bead of PVA round the inside, nothing to do with not trusting CA, honest. I built the fuselage top from noseblock back to F3 in one piece and then cut off the canopy section. I've separated the top from F3 back to F4 while I fit the innards. Spot the error? I bent the aileron torque rods a little short which meant the ailerons extend a shade further inboard than they should. This doesn't leave much TE between the booms and the ailerons. Talking of which, the booms are HARD 3/16", I really don't think any reinforcement will be needed. At least I hope not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Covered and started kitting it out, the esc fits neatly between the torque rods elevator lead buried in the top of the wing Top side and bottom 1lb 7.5 oz but I need to move the battery forward a couple of inches so call it 1 1/2lb finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brfc7 Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Wow a 4 day build, I wish I had the time ha. Mine still needs finishing off. Control horns, route servo wires install rx and esc.Baz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 call it 5 days as I started building on the 20th and just finished the tweaks - I took a day off as I had a bit of a brake failure on the way to work this morning. Nothing bad but a change of underwear required. After spending a couple of hours on the phone arranging repairs I worked out where the battery needed to go and marked the position with masking tape. Two liteply formers and some sliced 1/4"sq for fillets, a liteply battery plate and a couple of velcro straps later it's wattmeter time- This is the setup I took out of my battered Funjet so I know the motor and esc are happy at that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 well done bob-mine flys with 140 watts less than that and nips along...yours will be a goodin.... ken Anderson ne..1 goodin dept. Edited By ken anderson. on 25/02/2014 14:03:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 thanks Ken. Admission time. In the end I tapered the trailing edge because it looked naff squared off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 yes-I thought you may have.......British craftsman ship at its best ect.......never mind ARTF's .. ken Anderson ne..1 ......craftsman ship dept/uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 As I mentioned, you saved some weight as well, it's surprising how much lighter the wing panels feel after they've been carved a bit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Not so sure about that Colin, 1/8" taper over1" equals a piece of light 1/4"sq, or next to nothing on a 6" average chord. It does look a lot better though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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