Jim Walton Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Hello, I am in the process of wanting to start my Druine kit. I appreciae any advise anyone would have building it. This is a large and complete kit. I have read over the plans and see nothing that look insurrmountable. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim Walton, USA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Walton Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Thanks Percy, I do appreciate your reply. I have to make a decision on whether to start the Turbulent or the Precedent Aeronca Champ. I am leaning toward the Turbulent. I promise to post a building thread when I start construction. I hope this will be as soon as the first of November. I have a Saito .120 that I had originally planned to use in the Turbulent. Will this be sufficient? I am carrying the plans to the office tomorrow. I have an engineering digital copier. I will make a half size set to use to study. I will also make a couple of full size sets to use to build with. I like to save my original plans. The landing gear bothers me. I am not very experienced in silver soldering. I would need to find someone local to help me that part. I am a big proponent of Solortex. That has been my choice of frabic covering for many years. This would be my choice with the Trubulent. I ocasionally see a Trubulent or Aeronca kit on ebay, Both of these are getting scarce. I have never been a kit collector so there is no chance either of these kits will go unbuilt for too long. What happened to Precedent and Flair? The really good kit manufacturers seem to be going out of business. I guess this is the ARF curse. We only have around 4 builders letf in our local club. Our members number around 60. That is a sad commentary on the future model building. I would be glad to send you a set if you can use them. Please post any pictures you might have on your build. Photos are always a big help. Thanks again, Jim Walton, USA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert baker Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Hi, I have an old Saito 120s in mine and can confirm there will be more than enough power. Make the c-g nose heavy. it will handle fine with some extra weight up front, then remove some some of the weight until you are happy with is flight controls. They can be a right handful if tail heavy. Do make sure the undercarriage strut ply mounts on the wing are supported on all edges. Other than that a great plane to fly, vice free. Yes, silver solder is a must for undercarriage, do not try any other way. make sure you have a dry run first,as you will need to solder parts together in a sequence, the bottom strut bush needs to be fitted in between two of the soldered pats. Easy to do, you do need silver solder flux with silver solder and a good blow torch that produces enough heat ,there is nothing worse than struggling to get enough heat from cheap gas torches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Walton Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 Beautiful building job. Looks great. Are the slots functional? How about using Map Gas? I understand it burns hotter. Thanks for the encouragement from both of you. I agree with the model being slightly nose heavy to start with. No one like to fly a model that is the least bit tail heavy. I have watched more than one person destroly a beautiful model because it was not ballenced correctly. A model that is flying tail heavy is easy to spot. Sadly it is not fun to watch the inevitable. I hope to get started right after Thanksgiving (November 27th). I plan to focus on it until complete. I will do a building post. It will be my first. Thanks again, Jim Walton, USA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert baker Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 Yes add the slats, the only way of knowing if they really work would be to fit them and tape them over on a couple of flights. Make sure you plan your sequence of covering when it comes to the slats. I left the slats off and covered the wing in one color then covered the bottom of the slats and then glued them in and then used a different color on the leading edge and over the slats. Balsa locked was used to make sure a good adhesion was made in the hard to get at area's. Not used map gas. Just gently warm (gently heat not red hot just warm) the bits to be soldered individually and put some flux on them and fit them together, be sure to push them together right home where they need to be, cut a 2/3-mm slither of silver solder and rest it on the joint, warm it up and wait until the solder goes into the joint be way of capillary action. normally to a dull red, practice on waste materials first. You really do not need much solder to do the job. Be carefully not to over heat the springs when they are in the tubes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Gorham_ Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 MAPP gas (a mixture of Methylacetylene and Propadiene) is good for silver soldering and brazing as it gets hotter than a standard Butane or Propane flame. I've got a MAPP torch and there's no messing about when silver soldering using it. Gets the heat in nicely, so Jim if you have such a device then it'll do a good job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Percy, do you recall if your 1/4 scale Turbulent was the 57in span Peter Miller design that was published in Radio Modeller many years ago? Very nice looking model by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris larkins Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 I have a pdf copy of the original magazine bulid review if anyone is interested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Thanks Percy, I will send off for the plan, Traplet MW 2017. I have an OS52 FS which should fit nicely. I used to own a full size Turbulent, G-AWMR but many years ago sadly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Nice picky Percy (pilot has fallen out!) and thank you for the heads up regarding the weight of the OS52. Perhaps putting the elevator servo near the tail might be a good option to keep the c of g in the right ball park. Nice short elevator pushrod too as a bonus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Walton Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 Wow! I really didn't expect so much good advise. I am getting eager to start my build. I am headed to my office to make copies of my plans. I will also make a 1/2 size copy to study. I have found my copy of the December 1997 issue of Flying Scale Models. It contains a Precedent Turbulent building article by Roy Salter. It is short but informative. He used a Super Tigre .90 for power. I am thinking of using a Saito 1.20 four-stroke. I will also use pull-pull for the rudder and elevator. The 1.20 is on the high end of the recommended engines. This may be more than I want to use. With the type motor mount I plan to use I can decide when I get closer to the final steps. I think it will mainly depend on how it balances. I have printed and collected all of the post and will keep them for reference. Thanks again. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Walton Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 Thanks Percy, My Saito 1.20 is really a great engine. I used it in an 80" Tiger Moth. Flew with great authority. A few minutes ago I opened the box to inspect the kit. It is the most complete kit I have ever seen. The only thing You must supply is covering, engine, propeller, radio, glue and fuel. The wood is 1st class. Unbeleivable! I will replace the wheels as they are made of a hard plastic. I will use inflatable. As I mentioned earlier, I am going to copy the plans. They are huge. No one has yet memntioned the dummy VW engine. I guess if you could use something like a 1.80 or 2.00 twin four-stroke you would not need the engine kit. I will plan to use my single cylinder 1.20 so the provided VW will be needed for scale appearance. The plan makes it look like it will do fine. The landing gear looks doable. Thanks for the info on the Mapp gas. I already have a cylinder on my unit. P.S Cessna, if possible please post your pdf build review. I do not have a clue on how to post files. The review really would be of great help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert baker Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 There was a two part review years ago in the Model World mag. The construction notes are a bit chewy when it comes to the dummy engine. Best to lightly sand all the bits and dry fit them sand all the cylinder fins in place and drill all the holes required. disassemble and keep them in the order they came off the central support paint all the fins silver for the large fins and black for the spacers. and refit them in the order they came off, yep it's a long job. fuel proof it and let the proofer go fully hard. a good couple of weeks before you get any fuel near it. the longer the better. Take a look at the west essex aeromodellers site, where you will find a recent turb build. take a close look at the engine fins. One thing to remember is that the dash and the engine really do make the difference to the scale appearance, in truth there's not much to do to make it a good scale model. both of these bits can be added at a later time. You will have the wow factor as you don't see these in a rtf world Why not get a six foot log bit of wood and slide the fins and spacers on to it and paint them one end and slide to the other end to dry at least the order will not get mucked up. Edited By bert baker on 19/10/2014 10:35:40 Edited By bert baker on 19/10/2014 10:59:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert baker Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Heres one I owned many years ago, yep the model unfortunately not the full size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Walton Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 Hi Bert, That is beautiful. It would be great to have a full scale close by to work from. I have never seen a full scale craft here in the states. Did your fly as good as it looks? Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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