trebor Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 Mine was 89mm / 3 1/2 " back from the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin rowe Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 should the plane then be level at that point first flight at ic models so beginer, martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin rowe Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 some more picts of the h/king venus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 There is a slight tipping down at the front when balancing, mine was border line and I think it depends on how your battery is positioned. Do this before tank has fuel in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 Bit more surgery Fitted better spinner, painted prop tips as I like my fingers hope the white shows up alongside the grass field. Fit carb needle adjust extension. Fixed my fill / empty pipe Moved the receiver hopefully for the last time, got some Z pliers for links on servo arms, there very good. Left the throttle alone as it would be a fiddle adjusting it alongside the engine. Used some nail varnish to lock it in place. Made a wing bag with radiator foil from Screwfix Had to file more wood from wing mount due to rubbing from wing servo links, cannot understand why you still have to do this as they`ve been in production for years. Hopefully all I have to do now is learn to fly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Very tidy. You must be pleased!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Ooohhhhh.........shiny. Great work Promise me you'll never use an electric starter on that beautiful engine, it won't need it. I did this video to show that you don't need an electric starter to beat a two stroke into submission ! Edited By cymaz on 02/12/2014 20:02:13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted December 3, 2014 Author Share Posted December 3, 2014 Did my eyes deceive me are you flicking the prop the opposite way to start it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 Yes...but just knocking it against the compression. As it hit tdc then fuel in the head, compression anda good glow it will fire right up. Hope this helps. It's an old trick I learnt off a Club member that did a lot of control line competitions. Edited By cymaz on 03/12/2014 17:44:08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share Posted December 5, 2014 Well I got a copy of Phoenix flight sim and have saved a fortune, there`s no way I'm going down the field with my plane till I master this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Had a go at balancing 2 IC props 1 elec prop and the alloy spinner. The APC props all needed pleanty of glue on the hubs to get them balanced. Hubs were all heavy on the same side which had the imperial markings on. Need to get out and fly it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Had 3 flights yesturday, went fine only when trying to drain fuel it leaves fuel still in the tank so I might fit an extended flexi pipe and weight onto the fill line so I can drain more out of the tank when packing away. Am I better useing the thicker walled flexi tube for this ? The thinner tube might get kinked if it had a rough landing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Keep to the thin walled tubing but put a piece of short pipe in the middle between the neck and the clunk. There is less chance of it folding back on itself then. My cowl is cut generously around the carb, so at the end of the flying day I can pull off the feed tube from the carb and suck all the fuel from the tank via the clunk. Then run it dry and add a little after run. Simples. Edited By cymaz on 26/01/2015 06:25:08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Did think about removing the carb tube, but worried about stretching end of tube so it might work loose and pop off the carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokenenglish Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 You worry too much! It's true that if you keep pulling the tube off and on, etc. (which is wot I do), you'll have to replace the tubing maybe once per season... So what? It's easily worth it just for the convenience of operation... I'm just assembling a Wot Trainer right now. I hope to have it flying within the next week or two (no hurry, I have other planes). So far, I'm really pleased with the quality. It would seem that the issues raised in the early reviews, a few years ago, have been addressed by Ripmax. Anyway, my Trainer is looking and feeling really good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 What's your covering film like mines pants, it keeps lifting and bubbling all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokenenglish Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 As you know, all these ARFs are actually made in the Far East (which doesn't mean that there aren't differences in quality). So when we receive them, they've all been shipped and stored several times, through very different climatic conditions... The result is that I've never had one that didn't have a few wrinkles on the solid wood bits. I just liberally pin-prick the bubbles, and then iron down well with a good hot iron, and the problem is cured. This was the first job on my Trainer, and the finish is just about perfect now. To iron the bubbles flat, the air has to be able to escape, so the bubbles need to be "perforated". It's dead easy and only takes a few minutes to get an excellent finish on the entire plane. After that, as I'd like my plane to "last" a bit (don't we all!), I've put a couple of coats of polyurethane varnish in the engine and tank bays. That is now fully dry, so assembly will continue today... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Must admit I haven't been pinpricking the bubbles just ironing them back down, I'll give it a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokenenglish Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Yeah, you'll see, it works perfectly. Another obvious point is that these bubbles aren't specific to RTFs, they also occur when we covered the thing ourselves. I almost never use film for various reasons, and that's one of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 I've just noticed in your post of 2/12 that you seem to have both Rx aerials running fore and aft, in the same plane. Best practice is to set them at 90 deg to each other to maximise signal reception in different attitudes. Easier solution would be to turn the end of the extension cable and fix it facing upwards or downwards Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 I should have mounted the Rx where the on/off switch is as the front wheel snake is lower down, as it is if I turn it the connections rub on the throttle snake. So far its been ok fingers crossed. I cant move it back because of the wing servo links and if I moved it forward I,d have to extend the rudder and elevator wires. I did change the fuel pipes for thicker 3/32" tubing and fitted another clunk so I should be able to get most of the fuel out now. Its a better push fit on the carb and silencer. The tube that came with the kit was a bit slack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 No need to move the Rx, trebor, just remove the last piece of foam on the long aerial and refix it so that the bare end of the aerial is pointing downwards. That'll give you some diversity Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 I,m with you now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 Just in case we get some snow !!!! Found a plastic lid off the other half`s fridge salad box, it was in the back of the cupboard. Now its cut up she wont recognise it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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