Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 We'll let that one go Ken as I not only missed it anyway I actually prolonged it And the other thing is the rest of the mods are having a good snigger in the mod's chat room, they don't get a lot of entertainment - it would be a pity to take it off them! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Sorry about that Just as well you said something, I have just left it after getting my Tx to bind with the Rx ok now trying to understand how to program the servo movements as I have never done it before its given me a headache Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 Left the controls alone and made a jig to hold the engine so I can run it in outside. I could see me damaging the plane running and tuning this First couple of attempts didnt start, out with the plug and check it works. Then away she went Running rough but its a start. I`d sealed the silencer onto cylinder pot but I seem to be getting un burnt fuel seeping out of split in silencer body but the wind generated from the prop blows it about and its hard to see where it`s coming from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Substantial!! Take that muffler apart and re-seal it all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 trebor-as stevo has said do that-use some clear silicone to seal all the metal to metal joins..and when its installed in the model-do the joint to the manifold also and put a small amount on the nut's/threads..so to stop them coming loose....if your set up is for running in-I wouldn't bother-put the motor in the model and run it in-in the air.....each to there own but that is what I would do-set it up aprox on the ground and give it 1/2 dozen flights and only then attempt to set the needle correctly.... ken Anderson.....ne...1 silicone on the nuts dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 The instructions for the Ervine .40 motor say open the main jet 1 3/4 turns but fuel was going all over so I cut it down to 1 1/4 turns. How many full tanks do you think it will take to run in ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 The manual is for guidance ONLY. Go full tilt, with the needle 1 3/4 turns.Slowly click it in until MAXIMUM revs. Beware - you are running a bit weak here.. wind it out about 1/4 turn and it will slow down. This will run it rich for the time being and would be OK for flying; around 1 an hour of running will see it settling down. Read the running in notes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.. Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Open the needle back up ! There is supposed to be fuel going everywhere as the engine needs to run cool at first. If in doubt , follow the instructions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 28, 2014 Author Share Posted November 28, 2014 Engine and exhaust now sealed with high temp silicone based seal, mounted with longer bolts and nuts to lock in place. Fitted tank but unsure what to do with fill pipe, do you leave it hanging out of the bottom behind engine or put it in fuel tank compartment. Can anyone tell me what these four small washers are for ? They don't really look as though they would fit anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 The washers are to fit inside the prop hub to ensure that its centered properly to avoid excessive vibrations If you look at the pack the prop came in there will be a drawing to tell you which side of the prop to push the washer in - note you may have to ream it out to get best fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 28, 2014 Author Share Posted November 28, 2014 The black plastic bits came with the Wot kit with no mention of bits and prop came separate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 As may be Trebor but Dave is right - then certainly look like prop bushes to me too. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Francis Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 The black plastic bits are for the spinner back plate not the prop. One will fit the crankshaft to center the back plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 In the photo the black bits are the Spinner Back plate and the Spinner itself, the 4 grey plastic "washers" on the sprue are the hub bushes that come with every APC prop I have ever brought, they fit into the larger of the holes in the prop hub usually the back face which is the precision cut hole If the batteries in the digital camera were charged I would take a photo of some I have here! Edited By Dave Hopkin on 28/11/2014 22:09:55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iqon Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 do you get prop washers with ic props, i have only got them with elec props ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Beeney Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 Exactly so, Phil, I fully concur; but I’ve also occasionally centred both props and backplates if necessary when I’ve not had anything else suitable to hand by carefully wrapping insulation tape around the shaft until it’s an exact fit. Very important to cut all the excess width off with new sharp blade though, so that it’s not compressed at all. This lash up may not be to everyone’s liking, but it’s always worked perfectly for me. For a nice neat fuel filler tube installation a fuel line shut off clamp is the bees knees. Fixed to the side of the fuz with a small screw, it works like a dream! PB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philflyer Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Trebor I saw on an earlier post that you have a pressure line (tube) from your exhaust. If so you must seal the filler tube after filling the tank with anything clean that will fit into the end of the tube. It has to be easy to remove before filling. I have used a 15mm length of wooden barbecue skewer for years and keep the rest of it handy so I can break a bit off to use at the field when I loose the original. Even a small bolt will be fine. Tuck the tube down behind the engine to keep it neat. I always have a fuel filter in the filler line too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 I have a small plug which came with the box of bits I got off eBay, but its the length of tube hanging down. If I cut it short it will be ok for flying but no good for filling. There`s a few spare holes with nut-serts for the front wheel mount I could use to hold the tube, its just finding the right thing to do it with. I have so many bits but never the right one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Evans 3 Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 I find an old pop rivet cut down a bit and the stem bent at right angles makes for a very good fuel tube stopper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 Regarding the prop there is really no where for these spacers to go and there is nothing in the destructions If you know where give me a shout, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 Posted by Keith Evans 3 on 29/11/2014 11:45:39: I find an old pop rivet cut down a bit and the stem bent at right angles makes for a very good fuel tube stopper. Good idea !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 Bit more done, tank back in Receiver stuck down on neoprene base, same with battery and a few wires. Do you think its good enough ? Still undecided what to do with wires weather to bend or use small screw locks Nearly there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrman Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 The black spacers are for the spinner backplate to compensate for differing crankshaft diameters as necessary. You may not need to use them if your crankshaft is a good fit to the backplate hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben B Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 I've only ever got those washers with electric propellers! My IC props always come without and fit on the engine just fine. Strange! Suspect they might be for the back of the spinner if using an electric motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Did those prop bushes (the 4 black rings on the sprue) come with that prop? (or are they grey and just looking black in the photo?) Because with APC props where they supply bushes they are of the same colour as the prop - have they crept in from a job lot you got? When you fit the prop onto the engine shaft is there any wobble or is it a decent push fit? If there is no wobble then you needn't worry about bushes! Photo 3 : Assembly: Backplate goes onto the engine shaft, then Prop (writing facing away from the engine) then the washer, then the nut, tighten, then fit the Spinner with the two screws into the back plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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