Dusty Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 I have never tried this method! Is it any good compared to the convetional 2 line system? If so can someone please explain the difference's or post any link's etc... A detailed setup would be helpful! i have a rough idea of setup, but would rather see a detailed setup if someone can explain! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flytilbroke Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Set the fuel tank bung with two pipes high and one low as seen from the front of the model. Inside the tank, the upper pipes are carefully bent up until they fit with minimum clearance at the tank surface. one of them is the filler and the other the exhaust pressure tube. Remember to fit a little plug, sometimes called a "fuel dot" by dealers, on the fueling tube for flight. The lower pipe remains straight and is the one which goes to your Carburetter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 flytilbroke thanks for the reply! Makes sence, Ok I had visions of 2 pipes with clunks going into the tank... Your method sounds good! However if the engine is inverted whilst mounted which way does the model need to be whilst refuel/defuel? I ask before make a mess ....Ok then the filler tube can dangle out the cowling or something? So its sounds like different colours for the tubing so you know which on is which? I will give it a bash thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flytilbroke Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 How you secure or not the filler tube is up to you and your model shape. The engine whether mounted upright or inverted has nothing to do with the position of the three tube setup. Fill through the filler tube empty either through the carb' tube or invert the plane and empty through the filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted May 16, 2008 Author Share Posted May 16, 2008 Eric many thanks for the detailed description and making it simple! I have just ordered a new tank with brass pipes etc so I shall your method! Sounds a lot easier to fuel up etc!! If I have any dramas a shall post some pics so you can see what I have done... hopelly all goes well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted May 18, 2008 Author Share Posted May 18, 2008 Ok so far so good, I did what you said with the new tank, hole on the bottom too the carb, the 2 top holes facing the top of the tank, one pipe going to exhaust the other dangling out the cowling! Fueling up is no proplem, defuel I turn the model upside down and pump away, when there is no more fuel comming out from the tank I had a look inside the model to find the tank still has abit of fuel left in there? Is this normal or should you be able to empty completley?The clunk is set at about 10mm from the back of the tank and has free and full movment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchweight Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 Dustin, if you add a fuel valve in the carb line, you can refuel and defuel through this instead. Then the refuel line is redundant and can be blocked off. This will help with priming the engine, as there is a real danger of flooding if you over do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted May 18, 2008 Author Share Posted May 18, 2008 ok fuel valve? is this like a clunk but with 2 nipples on either side?This is what I have done...There is a blue line on the top going to the muffler, the white line from the top is refuel /defuel line (made a plastic stop). The line on the bottom going to the carb! Should this work suffieciently? thanks for replys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchweight Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 Should be fine mate.The fuel valve is a device which fits between the tank and the carb and makes a nice neat fuel filler which can be mounted on the cowl. When refuelling, it only allows fuel to the tank. When not, it allows fuel to pass to the carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted May 18, 2008 Author Share Posted May 18, 2008 Ok thanks Shaun, I will have to a look online to get one, the local model shop here is not to great, I have started to buy everything online now!!! I am sure this will be fine for now! I managed to get the internal glow plug which I have fitted... oh dramas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchweight Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 Speak nicely to Timbo for direction on on board glows... Fuel valve is somethin' like this.http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=5180 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted May 18, 2008 Author Share Posted May 18, 2008 Ok thanks Shaun, similar thing to what I was thinking!, got a manual with the on board glow, seems simple enough to get working, 3 different setups, if I can manage to mix it with the throttle should be no prob, If there is maybe a radio mixing one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchweight Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 I didn't mix mine, I made it switchable, that way when I am flying inverted etc, I can select it on. To be honest though, once the engine is running, I turn it off and never need it again. Did you buy that .53 or is that your .46? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted May 19, 2008 Author Share Posted May 19, 2008 Its my .46, the engine we can discuss in a PM... The 52 from mail box models seems the way forward at the mo, as well as there is a German shop wiht a O.S 55 going for a good price so.. pay the extra £10 and get it new? I think I must have got the same glow system as you then, ok will go for switch mode, I have enough switches and channels on the MX-16 to cover that (ch5)... I am worried now going for all this internal glow setup etc just adding weight to the Tuc with the .46... I have changed to 3 line system, again no reply from the link you sent me re the fuel valve for postage... cant be hard to send to BFPO and pay through paypal so will have to source one here! I did today but it was for a petroleum engine so the guy in the shop reckoned the o rings would have worn easily with methonal fuel!! I was gutted as it looked exactly like what was in the pic that you sent me (but no reply for the company on postage)....I have done no modelling tonight so I will tommorrow as have new prop and spinner, done the cowl etc so will post some pics on the Pheonix forum.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchweight Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 There's a Pheonix forum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Hi Dustin . I regularly use a three line set up . The main differenc to the set up mentioned above is that I only set the pressure pipe from the exhaust to the top of the tank ; the other i set into a bottom corner of the tank (or the center bottom on a round tank) I usually fit a short lenght of fuel tubing to the end to stop it rubbing on the tank. This allows you to fill and empty your tank from the same pipe by simply tipping the model to the side that the tube is set to , almost every drop of fuel can be drained. Fitting a fueling valve into the fuel supply tube should be avoided. They have been known to vibrate and allow air in causing unreliable engine runs , not good. I also use either a ripmax or a Dubro sintered metal filter clunk . Thes clunk/filters ,super filter the fuel and allow every drop to be drawn into the fuel line ,similar to the felt filters used in petrol engines.Fuel left in the tank ,even small amounts can make its way to the engine and cause corrosion in bearing ,efectively ruinning your engine. One last thing ,when putting your tank together throw away the brass tubing supplied and replace it with aluminium tubing . The modern brass tubing supplied with tanks will rot very quickly if you use nitro in your fuel, as the nitro methane attacks the copper content in the brass leaving pitted and split brittle tube s that allow air leaks. .Hoppe it helps good luck .E.D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aslan Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Three line setup for me is,one facing up(pressure feed from muffler)stick a piece of tube on this,cut at an angle(cut facing down)Other two are clunked any one to carb and the other to fill and drain tank completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 HelloEric Yes that green veridgris stuff is the result of the the copper being is being dissolved/attacked . You probably noticed that the coper was also turning black. A simmilar reaction occurs with the brass tubing but as their is only a small ammount of copper in the brass the tubing is degraded and becomes brittle and porous quicker as only the zinc is left . Perhaps someone on here is a chemistry wizz and can give us en explanation ? Since I have started using the aluminium tubing i havent had any problems.RegardsE.D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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