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Whirlwind No3


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Colin, in the a pic prevoius, is one that has the spinner cone sitting on top of an ali back plate, which is ABS (cone ), Chris Gold's version from Traplet, well they will be the cone, and the back plate will be build from 3mm ply with 6mm outer ring relieved to take the cone, as the cone is 4mm (in dia.) small, the 6mm will add to the cone taper... hopefully dont know

I will balance the whole ass. but I read some where that under 7000 rpm prop rpm, the spinner is no so critical dont know

Do you have any ideas?????dont know

BArry

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Not really. I know that there have been problems with some of these moulded spinners flying apart at high rpm and one I saw do this had the potential to be very nasty. However, I think that the plastics being used in these cases might be made from a vinyl type material. This has the potential to go out of shape and then fragment violently. I have a feeling that ABS is different in this respect. I used an ABS spinner years ago on an OS25 and still have it. In fact it was used as the pattern for the two aluminium versions I had spun up, one of which is now on the Seafang.

Obviously I'm not going to commit myself to saying that ABS is safer because if one burst and took someone's eye out, I might get the blame. However, I think that it is a possibility. You just need to test it very carefully, stay out of the line of fire and perhaps wear eye protection while you are doing it. I've discussed this with Danny Fenton previously and he has a lot of experience of this type of spinner, he has one on his Hurricane which appears to be made from a PV type material(?) From recollection, I think that he has found that they are ok as long as you keep the rpm low (7,000 rpm)?. You could PM Danny and ask him what he thinks about it.

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whirlwind 0020 003.jpgwhirlwind 0020 002.jpgI have a mate who is a "tool maker" he said if I get a bit ali. bar he will turn one up for me.... great

The last week I have been playing around with mounting a 40mm fan in the cowl, only after it was done, there was not enough space inside.....Blast....so now do I add a deflecting vent to the ex fan hole to force air up to that area, or will there be enough air coming in from the prop wash...guys what do ya think????

Those ugly holes will need to be filled in

Also a bit of work done on the wing nacelle body

whirlwind 0020 001.jpg

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Colin, I am slightly confused by your earlier post about the scale.

The full size whirly was only 45 foot span, just a bit more than a hurricane. That would make a 70 inch model 7.7 scale and a 12th scale model only 45 inches span. 105'' is almost 5th scale

I think something might have gone wrong in the maths somewhere :\

In any event, no matter the scale the more whirlwinds the better. I still looking for a 6th scale jobby at 90 inch, that would be spot on

And yours is looking good Barry, just a shame its not got real engines in it

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Thx Jon, yea well, real engines do sound great but.....the possilitys of an engine quit, is a great deal higher than electric, + I already have a 76" one with I.C. engines in it.....so this time i went electric...

Now what's this Colin, have you started to build your 90" one ?????

B

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I have to say that I find glow engines the most reliable powerplant going. much better than the two stroke petrol engines the guys at my club seem to struggle with. That said, I do spend a little while with a new model really making sure the needles are set correctly and once they are I more or less leave them alone with only a tweak here and there if the temperature/conditions change.

I also run my engines fully lean, that is I don't back them off from peak revs at all because the rich running you get from doing that can cause the engines to stop.

Anyway, its all down to personal preference at the end of the day.

As for the whirlwind, I am eager to get one as I have not had a twin for ages and I like them very much. Im not worries about an engine stopping because of its rarity and even if I did everything will be fine as long as you keep the other engine at a high power setting and keep the speed up.

The only things in the way of me doing a whirlwind at the moment are space in the hangar and the new TN mosquito....hmmmm

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whirlwind 0021 002.jpgSo it took a lot time setting up the wing - fuz incidences, the plan calls for 0 deg. on all surfaces, the tailplane was set before glued, so now it's not so bad setting up the wing to it, the battery acces has been sorted, complete with floor

planning out the building stages takes a bit of forethought..... A has to be done before B, C, D and E can be fitted....teeth 2

After building the U/C doors onto dummy nacelles, they don't match the ones on the wing, crying 2 so there now scrape ... ( waste of epoxy)...start again on the doors.

I just noticed in the pic, the fin to tailplane angle.it is just the camera angle

Till next time

Barry

whirlwind 0021 001.jpg

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whirlwind 0022 004.jpgwhirlwind 0022 003.jpgwhirlwind 0022 002.jpgProgress on the nacelles with the rear profile being added, some block balsa I've had for yrs finally found a use, tacked on, roughly shaped and then removed to hollow out the inside......in progress. While these where drying the wing undershape was built, the rear of it which has to fold down ( attached to flap), so an angle was suitably devised and glued in place....lots of dust and shavings

The wing hold down bolt dowels where too far apart so a second set had to be built, these fasten onto the mount plate with room to spare

Cheers

whirlwind 0022 001.jpg

 

Edited By A.A. Barry on 09/06/2015 10:06:15

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whirlwind 0023 cannons 001.jpgwhirlwind 0023 cannons 002.jpgA lot of time spent on the nacelles and flap, but not a lot to show....fiddly stuff, but I " turned up" the oberliken cannons today, they will be removable via a 3mm bolt glued into the end and a "blind nut" to secure them. I used a length of 5/16...8mm dowel, hopefully the model doesn't nose over on landing an bust them off, as the nose will be held on by magnets, if that happens, the nose should pop of thinking

whirlwind 0023 cannons 003.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

whirlwind 0024 006.jpgwhirlwind 0024 005.jpgnow for the time consuming part...sanding, filling and painting, here's the start, a film of filler over the balsa to smooth off the "lumps and bumps", then a coat of auto "spray putty" , to fill in the wood grain and joins. After I am happy with the outcome Deluxe Addesive glue will be spread over F/Glass cloth for strength, sanded smooth then paintedwhirlwind 0024 004.jpg

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whirlwind 0025 002.jpglaying on F/g cloth with Deluxe Adhesive's Ezi-Kote is pretty straight forward, coat the sheeting first with a coat, wait until dry and then lay on the cloth wetting down with another coat of the Ezi-kote ....after that drys, another coat and hey presto it's done. Now ya gotta be happy with that yes

Because the U/c doors have to be cut out, I have left a bit of filling to be done on the nacelle, trying to save on material

whirlwind 0025 001.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

whirlwind 0025 002.jpgwhirlwind 0025 001.jpg

After a couple of weeks out of commision( hospital), I have given the whirly a rest, so as to finish of my 1/5 HE100d, that I started a couple of yrs back, ( painting and fit out).

While roaming through Ebay, I came across this fan unit, part of a Flyzone FW-190 arf, thinking it would be good behind the whirly spinners, ( A$9.00 ) if nothing else just to move air around inside the cowls, so here it is, appox 70mm in dia, should be ok

Edited By A.A. Barry on 21/07/2015 10:41:19

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You must have similar thought processes to me, the He100 (aka falsely as the 113) has been on my list for years. I've never seen it done and it's a really attractive aeroplane. I also fancy the late versions of the 112. You ought to start another thread on the 100. It would have a lot of interest, I'm sure.

By the way, sorry to hear that you've been laid up, hope you're ok.

 

Edited By Colin Leighfield on 21/07/2015 11:13:32

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  • 1 month later...

img_1346.jpgTailwheel retract and doors have always been problems for me, but I think I've got this one in hand now, after hrs of trial and error.

I first tried push rods and bell cranks but the effort to move the doors required was just too much. the wheel itself is air down, spring up/out, I finally sprang on the idea of fishing trace instead of rods, and little rollers to divert the direction of the trace, tied into the door, with fine piano wire torsion bar springs, it worked a treat

img_1345.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

img_1349.jpgWell, finally I got back to the Whirlwind, been lots of sanding and filling and of course dust, Deluxe Ez-kote and thin F/g has been applied, but doing the flying surfaces was a messy, fiddly job, great job on the flat and larger surfaces, anyway 'tis done and a thin coat of primer added.

NOW to the U/C doors, earlier I tried doing them on the original sacrificing nacelles, but when done they didn't quite match up, so I'll redo them on the model

so until next time ?????

img_1347 (1).jpg

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