Ross Clarkson Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Iv'e got my first ever Collective Pitch Helicopter and I'm just trying to work out the advanced settings. I would like to ask what I'm sure is a simple question but I just cant work it out in my head at the minute. What settings do I need to look at on my Tx that can assure me that when I connect the battery the rotors will not spin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Throttle hold will need to be active. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Ok. So in my model memory on the DX7, Throttle Hold says: Hold Pos. 50.0% SW: GEAR What value should I be looking at and is the GEAR switch the best to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 I have a DX7 myself. Set the Hold position to 0% - activating switch is really to personal choice, I find the Elevator dual rate switch easiest to get to. Take the main blades off while you're setting up............just in case! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Thanks Cuban, thats brilliant, really appreciate it. Not sure what Heli you have but the Blade 180 CFX manual states to set the model up with a DX7 as: Swash Type: 1 Servo 90 My DX7 only gives me these options: 1 Servo NORM 2 Servos 180 3 Servos 120 3 Servos 90 Would you know which one i should be picking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Ross, which Dx7 are you using, the very latest or an earlier one, if it's the recent Dx7s one then use the NORM setting, if it's the original Dx7 Dx7se then use the Servos 90 setting. The flight controller is basically looking for pitch, roll and yaw inputs and it then decides how to move the servos, so the only thing you really need to program in is the pitch curves, so you can fly inverted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Its an older DX7 with no S or SE. Just standard DX7. So, I should use 3 Servos 90? So I learn from this, can you explain the difference between them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bennett Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 I can't help you specifically with your transmitter, but the swash type is determined by how many servos move the swash, and how they're distributed around its perimeter. My Align helis, for example, each have three servos, and they connect to the swash at 120 degree intervals -- two near the front and one at the rear. So to make the swash tilt forwards without changing height up the mast, the two front servos have to move down while the rear one moves up, and vice versa for backwards. Some helis may have the two front servos at 180 degrees to each other (i.e. either side), which results in no movement needed on them for simple forward/backward movement. Just moving the rear (or it could be at the front) servo will achieve this. Your transmitter needs to know what layout your heli is using so that it can mix the three channels correctly to give the swash movements you want. Then, to complicated things even further, if you're using a flybarless setup, some fbl controllers require the transmitter to do the swash mixing, and others do the mixing within their electronics, so require you to set your transmitter to no mix. Edited By Allan Bennett on 13/04/2015 20:48:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 Thanks Allan, that's great. I have 3 servos, 2 that control the front of the swash and 1 right in the middle at the back. Should i use 3 Servo 90 or 3 Servo 120? By what you have said, I'm assuming 3 Servos 120. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 3 servo 120 deg it should be, Ross. Some of the better instructional videos are from 'Finless Bob', over on Helifreak. They were very useful when I was dabbling a while back but I don't know if they've kept pace with developments. I don't know what heli you have but the Trex manuals can be very informative. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Ross - I don't know the Blade 180CFX heli, but I've just had a look at the manual online. It has the AS3X stabilisation system which handles the 3-servo mixing for you, so the correct swash setup for you is 1 servo NORMAL or 1 servo 90. The manual has tables of setups for each type of Spektrum Transmitter - just enter what it says in the table for your particular one, either DX7, DX7SE or DX7S. You will see that it says NO expo and that the Throttle hold should be 0%. It's all there in the manual - just follow it step by step and you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 Thanks guys. Thats the problem David, the manual says 1 Servo 90 for the plain DX7 (which i have) but I don't have that option to choose. I only have 1 Servo NORM which is as per the manual says, for a DX7s. So, 1 Servo NORM should be fine? Also, I see that on some of the EXPO recommended settings is says INH, I dont seem to have that option too, I only have LIN or + - numerical values. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Yes Ross, I've just checked my DX7, also an older one (one of the first in the country many years ago now) and it does say 1 servo Norm. That is the correct setting for you. Set the expo to LIN - it means linear response, no exponential curve, and is the same as 0% expo. Throttle hold on mine defaults to the RUDDER D/R switch, which is the one on the top right of the DX7, also labelled HOLD on mine, so thats the one I use, because on my larger helis the Gear channel and switch is used for Gyro gain. Make sure Hold position is set to 0%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 Brilliant David, thank you so much. Really appreciate your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 Thanks for all your help guys, got it binded and been testing with the blades off. Wow, it spools up impressively! Ok, so am i right in what i am doing? I connect the battery with throttle hold activated, test the movement on the servos etc and then deactivate throttle hold. Its the next bit I'm not sure on. Will it lift off in normal flight mode or once spooled up in normal flight mode, do i need to switch to flight mode 1 for it to get airborne? I'm assuming i do as if i throttle down to much on normal flight mode there is a distinctive spooling down of the rotors at a certain point which takes quite a while to spool up again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I take off and land in normal mode, and might fly slow hovering manoevres in normal mode too. For most manoevres, circuit flying and aerobatics then I select idle up (or flight mode 1) once airborne. You can select this on the ground before take off and deselect after landing but I find it easier to do it in the air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bennett Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 I've been flying my flybarred and flybarless 500 helis in normal mode for over five years now I've only just started using idle 1, though because of the way I've set the pitch and throttle curves, it does nothing other than ensure that the head speed can't drop to zero during flight. Rather than fiddling around with switches while flying, I switch to idle 1 on the ground before flipping the throttle hold switch off. Even though it's set for a minimum of 70% throttle (if I remember correctly), it spools up nice and slowly because of the soft start feature of my Castle Talon 90 ESC. If your ESC doesn't have a soft start feature, you'll need to start in normal mode and then switch to idle 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 Just wanted to say thanks for all your help guys. Had the 180cfx maidened and put a few batteries through her since. 6 channel flybarless systems are certainly a step up aren't they!! Love it. Extremely sensitive and still getting used to not cutting the throttle when in trouble and also having to counter act any input. Brilliant, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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