Former Member Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 Before I starred looking in detail at the Magister I assumed that the control surfaces would all be fabic covered, but the more I look the more I come to the conclusion that the Ailerons were ply sheeted, cant find a definitive photo to prove it either way, this is the best I can find so far... That, to me looks like a sheeted flying surface? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 It does to me too, get down to Old Warden and have a look? Dave, on the Chipmunk build, for rudder and elevators I have used a 3mm Depron core, 6mm Depron ribs, 6mm balsa leading edge and 1/32" balsa cap strips on ribs and trailing edges. Two coats of Ezekote to seal the Depron, then doped on Esaki silk and finished with two coats of normal Nitrate dope. The result is very light, stiffer than just balsa, no warping at all and a scale fabric appearance. Very fast and easy to do as well. No attack on the Depron by the dope either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 Hi Colin I used a 2mm Depron Core with 3mm Balsa LE and Ribs covered with 3mm Depron I plan to slap one some eze coat and then some "fabric" haven't decided what type yet, might be very lightweight glass but I will look into that silk (and its costs!) ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Have a look at the Free Flight Supplies web-site Dave. They've got the Esaki silk in different weights. I actually used the lightest and can't see any need to go heavier. It's worth a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Made a start of the fuselage, but had to do the (fixed) tailwheel and the closed loop tiller assemblies - slight deviation from the plan here - there will be an access hatch on the underside to allow access to the closed loop tiller arm - so I can add the closed loop for the rudder after some paint has been slopped over it.... Fus extends as far as the F3 line - from that point forwards it will be an open frame for motor and esc When the inside is complete, a top cover plate will be added then the turtle decking added as a seperate box all will be 6mm depron - hoping the double box affair will be nice and strong! Hatch for battery - I am going to attempt a aliminium cowl and hinge it so battery can be slid in from the front on a downwards angle.... but as I have never bashed out an cowl out of metal so that may well change!!!!! And I had to see how close I am to the wing seating! - seems pretty close - well it will be when the skin goes on the wing Thats about it till back end of next week - going up to Kendal for a few days..... Edited By Dave Hopkin on 28/06/2015 09:14:37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Not sure I'll get away with slipping a model in the car (and live) Percy - but I might wander down to the Lyth Valley site (I think thats where you are) if I can slip away and the weather permits flying, I'll PM you if I can be nice to say hello Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Posted by Percy Verance on 28/06/2015 09:38:31: The Lyth Valley site is a different club Dave. I could be wrong, but I doubt there will be anyone there through the week. Us retired/semi retired sorts hang out at a different spot....... Ahhh... ok, I googled Kendal Model Flying and came up with that club and jumped to a conclusion!!! The wrong one! Which club are you then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Okey Dokey - I have my Sat Nav with me, so if I can get away, I'll drop you an early morning PM!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 Never got a chit to come down and meet you Percy..... we did however pick a great day to go over Wyrnose and Hardknot... Anyway back to the sweatbox, I mean shed..... internal formers added to the Fus, Wing Fixing plate and servo tray fitted and push rod for closed loop rudder added, then lower fuselage boxed in.... Battery Tray position guessed and fitted, firewall bulkhead fitted and cowl assembly started Cowl read former will have some ali tabs that take a screw into a wooden block let into the fus side to allow removal... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 I will confess I had a "GULP" moment when I saw how steep the road was, and how much a new clutch might cost as I started up the incline...... definately not a road for the winter!!!! The ali guaze... not sure to be honest! it was found lurking in the cobwebby corner of the shed, I think I brought it from a model shop for doing a radar array on a 1950's destroyer about 5 years ago!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 Turtleback formers and stiffeners added and sanded to profile/chamfer... Fus = 290g so far Edited By Dave Hopkin on 04/07/2015 09:32:47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 Just how hard can cutting 4 lengths of Ali tube to exactly the same length..... Upto my knees in filings and discarded bits of ali tube!!!! Edited By Dave Hopkin on 04/07/2015 18:01:43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 I should have made a jig, but didnt! but eventually got 4 35mm tubes done for the motor standoff spacers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxfan Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Dave, I hope I'm not appearing condescending, but the best way to cut tube is to mark where you want it off a steel rule with a knife, but then just roll the knife round at right angles a few times and snap it off. You can get miniature tube cutters that work well, but I lost mine in a house move. The well aimed knife is just as good. If you think it might ping off somewhere (don't ask!), put a piece of rod up the tube first to press against and hold on to it. That works great for thin slices (instrument bezels). Nice build, btw. I must look into this Depron stuff! Cheers, Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 Posted by Foxfan on 04/07/2015 21:58:41: Dave, I hope I'm not appearing condescending, but the best way to cut tube is to mark where you want it off a steel rule with a knife, but then just roll the knife round at right angles a few times and snap it off. You can get miniature tube cutters that work well, but I lost mine in a house move. The well aimed knife is just as good. If you think it might ping off somewhere (don't ask!), put a piece of rod up the tube first to press against and hold on to it. That works great for thin slices (instrument bezels). Nice build, btw. I must look into this Depron stuff! Cheers, Martin It wasnt the cutting that was the problem it was my hamfisted accuracy!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxfan Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Plus or minus the width of a sharp blade....Grasshopper, Confucious say. Cheers, MrTin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 I've got to admit that these Depron builds are really impressive, the only thing I've tried Depron on is a little Polaris flying boat and I had problems with getting good bonds in the joints. What glue do you use Dave? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 I mostly use UHU Por (buy it on fleabay in packs of 10 MUCH cheaper!) for Depron-Depron or Depron-Wood Joints PVA for massaging into planked areas of Depron Gorilla Glue where I want a lot of strength/gap filling in unseen areas Epoxy I also use foam safe CA for tacking when I am going to epoxy something Alphatic Resin for wood to wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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