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Miss Demeanor


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Hi Matthew,

Yeah tell me about it! I thought I was going to be finished this weekend but I have to go to Australia on Saturday for a couple of weeks. There is a great model shop in Perth that I'll be doing a raid on when I get there.

The new SC .15 arrived this morning, pretty little thing! Problem is the crankshaft is even shorter than the Thunder Tiger .18 I was originally going to use (poor thing is sitting on the building board with a lost look on its face) so I will need another spinner.

Got a bit of a problem with the engine mounting though. If I try to mount it the way it is on the drawing then one of the bolts will clash with the stringer on F1 & F2. I could drop the mount down about 5mm from the thrust line then I could keep the engine at 45 degrees from vertical. My flying is that bad I probably wouldn't notice it anyway!

One other thing I noticed. If you make the 1/4" ply uprights for the Landing Gear wires to the size on the plan it covers the hole for the throttle snake through F2.

So far this model has been fun to build!

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You obviously got the old silver head SC .15. The best answer is to get someone with a lathe to make a hollow bolt to go throught the prop. Anyone with a lathe can do it in a minute or two. Use a 1/4" bolt. I think the thread is 5 mm.

Just move the throttle cable hole in to clear the 1/4" ply upright.

My engine mount seems to be angled over a bit more. I think I filed away at the blind nut just to clear the stringer slot.

There are several answers but the easiest is to drill a new hole for that bolt in the engine mount. Just move it in towards the centre.

Alternativley cut away the stringer and add a piece beside it. It is only there to halp with joining the rolled sheet.

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Ah, yes, the new SC 15, a nice engine. The shaft should be long enough, I am using mine on my Okie Swinger which is the same size as Miss Demeanor.

I have an Irvine spinner with the metal backplate and a Master GF 3 series 8X6 prop. Goes like stink.

The new SC is better designed inside, don't think it is very much more powerful but as it costs the same that can't be bad.

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Hello to all

Just decided to join the club and build one too this is my first ever build from scracth so i might need some help along the way but i am exieted about the challenge ahead all your models look great i have so far just got the ribs done going to do the ply formers tonight! i will report back.

Reagards Alex,

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I admit that I know nothing about electric powered models but from your question I am assuming that you just want to use the battery to power the radio, not an electric motor.

In that case, can't you just use a speed controller with a BEC and but not use the motor connections?

Personally I would say, why bother, why not just fit a normal Rx battery.

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Doug

Given the requirements of the servos in miss D then a 4.8v system woud be plenty in which case you will need a 5Amp regulator they come in to types 5 and 8 amp 4.8 and 6v respectivly or you could use a small rx batt say 800 mah but as this will add extra weight you are probably doing right by running rx via lipo/regulator.

Flightpower do one the FT5AVR although cheaper one are availiable its just an example

regards Alex

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A word of caution here.....many regulators  are designed for 2s Lipos rather than 3.

I have some which although useable on 3s or even more, will only activate the low battery warning alarm ( which is a great idea ) when using a 2s pack. Whichever you decide to go for.... remember the Lipo must NOT be allowed to drop to lower than around 3V per cell when used on such low current drain applications as a radio supply.

Most decent switching regulators such as the ubiquitous UBEC will be happy on multicell packs....but do check!

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