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So I guess you had the top and bottom spars glued in place and were using the blocks to hold the trailing edge in position and using the weight to keep the lower spar on the plan? Sounds like a good plan.

I was wondering about attaching something to the front face of the blocks to fit snuggly on top of the spars. Scrap 1/4 balsa fitted using double sided tape or ideally an adjustable feature for different size spars, but your idea sounds nice and simple, I will give it a go.

Posted by Gary Vinten 1 on 23/11/2016 12:29:26:

Posted by Delta Foxtrot on 23/11/2016 12:21:37:

Gary,

I also invested in the magnetic blocks at the LMA show at Cosford last year. I was wondering how they coped when you attached the leading edge sheeting for the lower surface of the wing during your build. Is there enough force to firmly keep the spar clamped down as your raise the sheet up to the ribs for gluing, or did you pin it down.

regards

dave

Hi Dave

Yes there is I put the blocks up to the trailing edge the then pushed the blocks onto the sheet and put a weight on the structure to hold it down while it dried . The best thing I have in my tool box for years . I have built the whole model with these no more clunky slec building jugs and a lot less pins

Gary

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Posted by Delta Foxtrot on 23/11/2016 12:52:22:

So I guess you had the top and bottom spars glued in place and were using the blocks to hold the trailing edge in position and using the weight to keep the lower spar on the plan? Sounds like a good plan.

I was wondering about attaching something to the front face of the blocks to fit snuggly on top of the spars. Scrap 1/4 balsa fitted using double sided tape or ideally an adjustable feature for different size spars, but your idea sounds nice and simple, I will give it a go.

Posted by Gary Vinten 1 on 23/11/2016 12:29:26:

Posted by Delta Foxtrot on 23/11/2016 12:21:37:

Gary,

I also invested in the magnetic blocks at the LMA show at Cosford last year. I was wondering how they coped when you attached the leading edge sheeting for the lower surface of the wing during your build. Is there enough force to firmly keep the spar clamped down as your raise the sheet up to the ribs for gluing, or did you pin it down.

regards

dave

Hi Dave

Yes there is I put the blocks up to the trailing edge the then pushed the blocks onto the sheet and put a weight on the structure to hold it down while it dried . The best thing I have in my tool box for years . I have built the whole model with these no more clunky slec building jugs and a lot less pins

Gary

I got 20 blocks when I got mine so my whole model was made using them all

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Posted by Gary Vinten 1 on 23/11/2016 12:36:42:
Posted by MattyB on 22/11/2016 23:56:26:

I would need to work out the numbers on ecalc to be sure which I can't do on my phone, but I still wonder how you're getting to 1700W on a 200Kv motor, 6S pack and a 17x10 prop. Are you sure it is not a pitchier prop?

I think you are going to be disappointed with the speed if your prop really does have a 10" pitch. On a fresh pack the max theoretical pitch speed is only ~45 mph; that's a thrust optimised setup more for a Cub or 3D model than a rocket ship! According to Overlander that motor can run an 18x10 on a 10S(!) pack, so a 17x10 is way under propped on 6S. If you are after speed a square or over-square prop would be a good bet; a 16x16 might be in the right ballpark. Even so I do wonder if your Kv is just too low for serious speed on 6S whatever prop you run.

Edited By MattyB on 23/11/2016 00:14:07

Hi Matty

I dont think there is a listing for the overlander motor on ecalc

but iam sure I will get very near to what I want from this motorface 23

Gary

ECalc used to allow custom motors in the free version, but looks like they removed that now. The only other free e-calculator I found gave a ridiculous result (max wattage of only about 300 on your setup), so unless I pay for eCalc I guess the theoretical max wattage value will remain a mystery.

Not so the pitch speed though - 200kv on a 6s pack is a max rpm of ~4800, so on a 10" prop you have a max pitch speed of 45mph. Given drag losses you are probably looking at a max airspeed of only 40mph. I wish you luck, but suspect it's going to be like driving on the motorway in first gear on that prop...

Edited By MattyB on 24/11/2016 00:11:51

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Posted by Gary Vinten 1 on 20/01/2017 14:50:29:

Hi All

I now will run the motor on a 8s pack and the prop is 18x16 apc this should give me what I need I ill run some test over the weekend and set out some specs

That sounds more like it - your pitch speed is in the 100mph ballpark on a 16" pitch, 200Kv and 8S. Just be careful not to go too far the other way and burn out your ESC, as you are operating a lot closer to the limits with that setup; maybe try a 17x16" (if such a thing exists) for starters?

 

Edited By MattyB on 20/01/2017 15:37:37

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8S power and you are still going to use the ESC BEC? Brave man. Personally for anything above 4S I install a separate switching BEC or RX pack; I can't imagine the additional weight would be a major issue for this model. Alternatively you could stick with the ESC BEC but add an Optipower Ultraguard for additional peace of mind.

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Hi Matty

Well spotted that esc was the original for 6s but now I am on 8s this is the one


Max Cont Current: 80A
Max Burst Current: 100A for 10 seconds
Input Voltage: 4-12 cells li-XX or 12-42 Ni-MH/Ni-Cd battery
BEC: None (OPTO)
PWM: 8~16 KHz
Max RPM: 240,000rpm for 2 Poles Brushless Motor
PCB Size: 50x30x17mm
Weight: 84g (including wires)

Type: Switching
Input protection: Reverse polarity protection
Output (Constant): 5v/5A or 6v/5A
Input: 8v-40v (2-10cell lipo)
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Yes, well aware of that, hence why I questioned your original post on the last page where you stated you would use the onboard ESC BEC.

A word of warning on the cheap HV BECs... the Turnigy one that I was going to put in my Miss Wind failed during initial testing in the plane on a 6S pack despite running happily for 3hrs burn in on the bench on 3S. The learning for me was always test BECs for a good few hours using your intended input voltage before installation; if they are going to die, it's normally within the first few hours of operation.

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