Ton van Munsteren Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Iam not really a foam fan but I love the David Boddington Raider Combat design from 1980, its easy to make and 100% fun to fly. As Always I make a lots more pics than there's needed for the article as published in the RCM&E Febr-2017. So for every one who likes pickies or have questions have a look in here or as your question. Enjoy If you want to receive the drawing or a pdf for the parts just let me know. Ready start cutting foam Power on and now full power to start cutting foam It works the wire is cutting foam at half trottle Pim is cutting the sheet to the size needed The first try to cut the profile its by the way Pim's first time cutting a wing Looks like Pim is going a little to fast or the wire needs a little more power Oooops yes a little to fast Works also great with a servotester. Will be back later with more pics. And if you have some Raider pics yourself just through them inhere. Cheers Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Here some more pickies 9 gram servo works fine Receiver in a small cutout and covered with film 30 Amp Esc and motor 2830 1000kv with 10x5 , no powerhouse but enough for fun flying and combat. The Lipo 3S 2200ma 20C works fine and is cheap , sits in place with only velcro. Hold perfect for flight but comes off on a crash which safes the batt. I use the HK velcro which works great. The line is handy for aligning the motormount with the eye, you won't fly strait so its not critical . The cg as per plan is 2 1/16" inch but on my model sits a little more forward because the location of the batt. Better a litlle more forward than aft because then it won't fly. Thats it for now but theres more to come lateron. Cheers Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted January 27, 2017 Author Share Posted January 27, 2017 And the number of Raider combats is growing at our club Ready for a combat fight Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 John North, please check your inbox and sent me your email address for the drawing of the Raider. Cheers Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hammond Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Hi Ton, what is the distance from the wing leading edge to the rear face of the motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 Hi Brian, To the rear face of the motor its 66mm . Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hammond Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Thank you Ton I will get on with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Great fun receiving pm's for the drawings of the Raider and hope you all have lots of fun cutting the Raider. And have as much fun as I have flying the Raider. Don't forget to post your pics of your Raider. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 If anyone want's to receive the pdf's of the Raider. Please include your emailaddress in the pm or else I can not send it to you. Cheers Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilco Wingco Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Hi Ton, Just tried to print the PDFs you sent but they get "printer" as a .PRN which I cant print or open on Notebook. Anybody any ideas??? Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 Mike, It could be that my pdf is a newer version, ou can try to alter the name in to, raider.pdf Its sometimes that a system modifies the name of the file, in another version and is the .pdf missing. modify the name with .pdf and it should open. Cheers Ton Edited By Ton van Munsteren on 11/02/2017 16:34:35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 Mike, Check your email the files are now changed to jpg so you can print them should be okay now. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightflyer Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Ton, Loved the article and the posts on here. I am definitely going to have to build one. I built an Enya 19 powered one when the original design was published and enjoyed it, but I am sure from the video that your electric version is probably better still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightflyer Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Ton, Further to my earlier email I would really appreciate a pdf of the parts. Thanks Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Ton, I have proposed to our club (Tadcaster & District MFC) members that we have a Raider club build for Easter and those that fancy it a go at combat. Thanks for the effort, pm sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Paul, Look like fun to me flying the Raider with an Enya 19. When did you send me an email or your email address by pm, looks like I have missed that. Ace , thanks for the email address the email is send, enjoy the build of the Raider and please let us know how the club build is going. Cheers Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Paul, thanks for your email address and an email is send. Enjoy the build of the Raider and would be great to see your Raider with the Enya motor. Love those Enya motors, we can't fly 2 stroke that's why mine Raider is flying electric. But have good memory's of my Raider with a Veco 19. Cheers Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightflyer Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Thanks for that Ton. Yes they were not a bad engine in their day. Mind you Veco were not bad I remember two other Veco powered ones that performed well. Sadly I have not got any pics of my Enya one but when I build the new one will post them on here. I am so glad you have resurrected this design. Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brfc7 Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 Cheers for the email Ton, made my loom today. Like yours I made it from plastic pipe with 5mm bar. I've cut some grooves into the ends of rods to support the wire. I will be using a servo tester with a brushed ESC (anyone got a spare esc) for power. Couple of questions- What thickness of nichrome (swg) wire should I use? Plus where are people buying the foam from? baz Edited By brfc7 on 16/03/2017 21:51:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 baz, Looking good please keep in mind you need a tensioner, because when heating the wire it will expand a little and will lose its tension. The wire Iam using is 0.5mm not that it is the best thickness, its because its the only wire I have so I use it and to good result. I get my foam from house construction companies its used for isolation of houses. Looking forward to more pics. Cheers Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brfc7 Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Posted by Ton van Munsteren on 17/03/2017 21:21:50: baz, Looking good please keep in mind you need a tensioner, because when heating the wire it will expand a little and will lose its tension. How have you tensioned yours! I presumed you just put the wire on very tight contracting the loom and then once hot it expands but is still taught. Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 Yes that's what I do, when looking at the pics the plastic tube is set a little round, because of the tension on the wire. Its not the best option but it work for me, but a spring would even be better. But than again its only for cutting some Raiders its not for a production of a lot. Cheers Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brfc7 Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 Evening Ton, I'm still in the process of getting all my components together. I only need an esc to complete my hot wire loom and have all the other bits to make the actual wing including the all important foam. I bought a sheet 2400x600 so going to try an 800mm wingspan 1st and if this works I will get 6 wings from 1 sheet (Will probably need them all once we start combat) Here is a picture of a Raider made by one of my club mates John. He says he had one of the original DB Raiders back in the 80s and had great fun "trying" to cut opponents streamers" Thanks Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 When tensioning the wire with a spring avoid having the spring carry current as it will lose temper if it gets hot. I suggest making a ring loop at one end of the cutting wire and make a stub on the bow. Hook one end of a spring into the loop and the other end to the free end of the stub. Experiment for best tension. I avoid telling you how to do it as the methods used to make the bow vary so much and you are all such clever chaps/ chapesses..The spring could have a length of wire interposed to keep the spring away from too much heat Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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